Braking issues after rotors and pad change.

[Mazda5pro]

I just changed all my rotors and brake pads to a zinc coated /drilled slotted rotor and pads.

I think I did everything right, but my rear brakes aren't working at all. When I pull the e-brake handle it goes all the way up.
I also noticed I do need to press the brake further down to stop the car. noticed it while bedding the brakes, and now. It still stops the car but its not the same.

My e-brake light was on previous to the change, and wouldn't go away even when not engaged. Thinking that may have something to do with it. On the rear brakes I noticed while compressing the caliper using the hex. One side would not stop turning, it would be completely compressed but i'd still be able to turn the hex screw.

Does this mean the caliper has seized?

My car is the Mazda Protege5 2003 with 219,000km maybe more. Its totally falling apart but the engine and handling is superb.(lol2)

 

[Mazda5pro]

I think I took the wrong bolt off in the back of the caliper thinking it was where you put the hex bolt in. The thing had a washer on it and there was some oil on it. Worst I forgot to put one on and started driving on it. (hand)

I guess now I have air in my system and I need to bleed my brakes?

anybody know how to go about doing this?

 

[Noisy Crow]

Google Ericthecarguy.com bleeding brakes.

 

[MaxPower]

1. The e-brake light can be on either if the e-brake is engaged or if the brake fluid is low. If the brake fluid is low, you might have a leak somewhere. That "oil" you found coming out of the adjustment screw might be brake fluid.

2. In the rear calipers, you can loosen the parking brake adjustment screw until it falls out. To properly adjust the parking brake, you want to tighten the adjustment screw until it is finger-tight (the pads contact the rotor and stop it from turning), then back it off 1/3 of a turn.

 

[Mazda5pro]

Thought I replied but I guess I pressed something that deleted it.
I'm currently bleeding my brakes. The order I'm doing them is as follows:
Right Rear
Left Rear
right front
left front.

If this is incorrect please let me know.

While bleeding I noticed little to no fluid coming from the R and L rear brakes, and absolutely nothing coming from the L front brakes. The F right seems to get all the fluid, but I'm getting huge bubbles in the tube. I must have bled out a whole bottle worth of fluid.

so I just stopped and came in to ask you guys what you think is going on?

The E-brake light did go away. (eekdance)

Cant say if the brakes are working cause the wheels are still off the car. (uhm)

1. The e-brake light can be on either if the e-brake is engaged or if the brake fluid is low. If the brake fluid is low, you might have a leak somewhere. That "oil" you found coming out of the adjustment screw might be brake fluid.

2. In the rear calipers, you can loosen the parking brake adjustment screw until it falls out. To properly adjust the parking brake, you want to tighten the adjustment screw until it is finger-tight (the pads contact the rotor and stop it from turning), then back it off 1/3 of a turn.

 

[Mazda5pro]

?

 

[pcb]

I don't know what you've got going on but here's the brake bleeding procedure:

 

[MaxPower]

1. Bleed one caliper at a time. Make sure the bleed screws on all the others are closed.
2. Make sure you are following the proper technique for bleeding brakes, typically requiring two people (one to operate the brake pedal and the other to open/close the bleed screw). If you are doing it by yourself, use a vacuum pump (Mityvac) or gravity bleed the brakes.
3. The air bubbles are entering from the thread around the bleed screw. You can a) wrap the thread with Teflon tape to seal it or b) after you have bled the caliper, crack the bleed screw open just a little and let gravity pull brake fluid into the caliper and displace any residual air in the caliper (should take 30 seconds or so).

 

[hotcracker69]

this is a prime example of taking too much risk to save little money

brake job can be found for reasonable price and when using quality parts and driving style, front pads will last 60k to 70k miles, rear will last over 100k. that is 4-5 years of driving. i got my brakes done by a well qualify mechanic for $250 bucks with parts.

but again props for for trying... best way learn something new. but for a safety item such as brake is better to learn then try.

 

[P-Funk!]

^bah! It ain't rocket-surgery! It is one of the easiest jobs. Take your time & follow the manual (above).

Saves $$ for mods.

(and brake places sometimes hire 18YO w/o a clue who can make mistakes. NO Thank You. I KNOW I will take my time and do it correctly.)

 

[MaxPower]

I agree it has the potential to be dangerous, but if the brake job isn't done correctly, it will be obvious immediately on the test drive and can be fixed.

The only way to learn to wrench is to wrench. Ideally from someone who knows how, but some of us have to rely on manuals and online help.

As P-Funk! noted, there's no guarantee a mechanic will do the job correctly.

 

[hotcracker69]

^bah! It ain't rocket-surgery! It is one of the easiest jobs. Take your time & follow the manual (above).

Saves $$ for mods.

(and brake places sometimes hire 18YO w/o a clue who can make mistakes. NO Thank You. I KNOW I will take my time and do it correctly.)

i would not say the easiest... this thread would not have been created if it was so easy, one still needs to know the proper way to do it, the proper torque, and procedures.
am not saying the the corner mechanic is going to do it perfect. but if you plan to just jump on it with out basic knowledge... pretty risky