Clicking/knocking noise after rotor and brake pad change
- Thread starter RedPanda7
- Start date
D'oh!
Well this is certainly embarrassing.
Ladies and gentlemen, may I present you the biggest goofball in 2020 thus far- Redpanda.
Not making any excuses, I must have swapped the boxes when I first got them through the mail.
Newbie me wasn't experienced enough to recall that the rotors were different when I installed it.
Thank you guys for pointing that out- I should've double checked the easiest solution first.
Well this is certainly embarrassing.
Ladies and gentlemen, may I present you the biggest goofball in 2020 thus far- Redpanda.
Not making any excuses, I must have swapped the boxes when I first got them through the mail.
Newbie me wasn't experienced enough to recall that the rotors were different when I installed it.
Thank you guys for pointing that out- I should've double checked the easiest solution first.
I think I'm ok since those lines were already there pre install. I stopped driving the second i heard the noise. I checked the pads and the brake and everything seemed OK.
But then again, what do I know?
I think your rotor is fine.
New rotors come with cross-hatching on their surface.
I think you should take your car for a test drive and test the brakes, then take it on the highway to see if that shake is gone.
Then install your rear rotors and pads, which I assume you haven't done yet?
These are my rear rotors on my DD.
They look like crap and are full of grooves but they work and don't drag and I don't consider them unsafe in any way. They're only a couple of years old.
I certainly wouldn't want to track my car in the condition that it's in though.
I drive the car very gently but I'm sure my brakes would grab hard enough to kick in the ABS if I ever had to do that.
New rotors come with cross-hatching on their surface.
I think you should take your car for a test drive and test the brakes, then take it on the highway to see if that shake is gone.
Then install your rear rotors and pads, which I assume you haven't done yet?
These are my rear rotors on my DD.
They look like crap and are full of grooves but they work and don't drag and I don't consider them unsafe in any way. They're only a couple of years old.
I certainly wouldn't want to track my car in the condition that it's in though.
I drive the car very gently but I'm sure my brakes would grab hard enough to kick in the ABS if I ever had to do that.
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This is a picture of when I installed that rotor. It's from May 2017.
I put washers on the stud so my short lug nuts could snug up the rotor.
I put anti-seize on the hub and rotor to keep them from seizing.
I've had to go at rotors with a sledgehammer before to break them free.
I put washers on the stud so my short lug nuts could snug up the rotor.
I put anti-seize on the hub and rotor to keep them from seizing.
I've had to go at rotors with a sledgehammer before to break them free.
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Will def follow your method for the rear rotors.This is a picture of when I installed that rotor. It's from May 2017.
I put washers on the stud so my short lug nuts could snug up the rotor.
I put anti-seize on the hub and rotor to keep them from seizing.
I've had to go at rotors with a sledgehammer before to break them free.
I also replaced my slide pin boots because my old boots we're cracked and letting water in, (brine solution actually. lol), and rusting/seizing the pin.
Make sure you use rubber grease on the boots and pins or the rubber will dissolve.
I used caliper grease on my pins and the boots turned to mush.
PS, ... This stuff is awesome.
It lasts for over a year as opposed to regressing your brakes twice a year.
Make sure you use rubber grease on the boots and pins or the rubber will dissolve.
I used caliper grease on my pins and the boots turned to mush.
PS, ... This stuff is awesome.
It lasts for over a year as opposed to regressing your brakes twice a year.
Compare the thickness of your inner and outer old pads.
If the slider pins were a bit sticky, the outer pad will drag, wearing the pad down quicker.
If the slider pins were seized, the outer pad will be thicker because it never gets pulled onto the rotor.
The caliper is supposed to squeeze the rotor evenly from both sides, if the pins are seized, the brake piston only pushes the inner brake pad.
If the slider pins were a bit sticky, the outer pad will drag, wearing the pad down quicker.
If the slider pins were seized, the outer pad will be thicker because it never gets pulled onto the rotor.
The caliper is supposed to squeeze the rotor evenly from both sides, if the pins are seized, the brake piston only pushes the inner brake pad.
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Take note of the squealer tabs on the pads.
Each wheel gets one pad with the squealer tab, and one without.
In my experience, the inner pad has always been worn more than the outer, so I put the pad with the squealer tab on the inner side. (the one next to the brake piston.)
You want the thinnest pad to have the squealer hit the rotor to let you know to check your brakes.
You want to hear the squeal before any pad is worn down to the metal.
(I've had my squealer tabs rust right off, so I had no early warning. Lol)
Each wheel gets one pad with the squealer tab, and one without.
In my experience, the inner pad has always been worn more than the outer, so I put the pad with the squealer tab on the inner side. (the one next to the brake piston.)
You want the thinnest pad to have the squealer hit the rotor to let you know to check your brakes.
You want to hear the squeal before any pad is worn down to the metal.
(I've had my squealer tabs rust right off, so I had no early warning. Lol)
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