Blew my headgasket 2day

really guys,we have two types of thinking on this.it's not that one is wrong,it's just that there are two different views.
 
MPNick said:
Because the rods are made with them from the start.

Why do you think they went with ARP over TTY?
ARP rod bolts have a higher rockwell and thus allows you to run a higher tq value. You will run a higher tq value because you changed the game and went from 130hp to whatever it is. You need the extra strength to hold the rod together. The same thing applies to the head. The stock TTY bolts where designed to withstand X amount of cylinder pressure. Start adding boost and the TTY bolts will fail. What that number is is not 100% known yet.
 
wicked said:
really guys,we have two types of thinking on this.it's not that one is wrong,it's just that there are two different views.

I agree. I am always wanting to learn something new. If there's something here to learn I think everyone will benifit.
 
Mental Addiction said:
Why do you think they went with ARP over TTY?
ARP rod bolts have a higher rockwell and thus allows you to run a higher tq value. You will run a higher tq value because you changed the game and went from 130hp to whatever it is. You need the extra strength to hold the rod together. The same thing applies to the head. The stock TTY bolts where designed to withstand X amount of cylinder pressure. Start adding boost and the TTY bolts will fail. What that number is is not 100% known yet.

Show me a stock bolt the failed. The aftermarket rods are designed to handle more power. They also have a stronger bolt hole boss to handle the stronger bolts. When you change to a aftermarket head or main studs you are now stressing the stock bolt boss more then they are designed to be stressed. You will distort the block.
 
MPNick said:
When you change to a aftermarket head or main studs you are now stressing the stock bolt boss more then they are designed to be stressed. You will distort the block.
this wont happen if you dont overtighten it will it? I mean same torque tightened on either case is the same right? except the arp are supposed to hold better. but we really dont know how far we can push the oem tty though? just that the arp studs seam to loosen every so often leading to problems?
 
MPNick said:
Show me a stock bolt the failed. The aftermarket rods are designed to handle more power. They also have a stronger bolt hole boss to handle the stronger bolts. When you change to a aftermarket head or main studs you are now stressing the stock bolt boss more then they are designed to be stressed. You will distort the block.

I blew my head gasket. 15 months ago on stock TTY bolts and 15psi. Could we blame it on the TTY, maybe, maybe not.
I have yet to see a stripped head bolt boss. We Tq them to 90ft lbs on studs. We have also torqued a head down to a block with studs at 90ft and went in from the bottom with a bore gauge to see if there was in cylinder taper... Nope none at all. We then did it to 150ft lbs.. No stripped holes or bore taper.
 
no pics yet my computer is gay. beau is right i called arp and they told me twice that i need 60ftlbs. i thought it was weird but i did it anyway now know better. the head has been lifted for a month now i just put all the clues together and finally blew all the way out. its been burning coolant for 1month now. this really sucks but the car runs again. im gonna retune 2morow and goto the track with it on wed if all goes well.
we could go back and forth all day on which is better tty or arp. ive personally never heard anything like nick is saying in referance to the stock studs being used, in anyother car. but that doesnt mean it isnt right.
 
Bearings don't like anti-freeze. Hopefully the shortblocks still good.
 
lol ..... water, with the damn heat it wont freeze, so its sall good

With little to no research having gone into all this. Its really hard to say which is better, the strength of the arp, is prolly the most appealing to everyone. And when used correctly and tq down to the correct lbs seem to not f up, as beau said when something isnt used correctly it will fail "whatever can go wrong will". Now im just speaking outta my rear end, having not yet started my engine re-build i have no damn clue what im talking about....soo ill just go back to reading what the pros have to say.


p.s. CWiLL your car is sick
 
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vindication said:
this wont happen if you dont overtighten it will it? I mean same torque tightened on either case is the same right? except the arp are supposed to hold better. but we really dont know how far we can push the oem tty though? just that the arp studs seam to loosen every so often leading to problems?
Thats the problem. What do you torque them too. ARP tells you 60. More then that you may have a problem with the stud.
 

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