Blew my headgasket 2day

ddogg777 said:
If his system is pressurized he won't need to worry about that. What he needs to worry about is corrosion.

We all know what happens with rust when you just run water.

My thinking is more about higher boost levels and very high temp around the chambers of the cylinder head. That is where you can get boiling water and air pockets. Just plain water will not remove the heat from around the chambers as well as coolant can. This can cause detonation and lifting of the head. He is running hotter cylinder head temps with water then with running water/coolant mix. Not what you see on the temp gauge but around the cylinder head. I would use something like Evans Cool in a high boost engine. We have been able to run high boost with less timing retard with this stuff then with just water or coolant.

http://www.evanscooling.com/main11.htm
 
everyone has a opinion on how i should build my car. i know 9sec dsm's that run water. whatever the case is im only using water for the time being coolant is going back in.
BTW nick i cant read the graph on ur sig what does the car make?
 
CWiLL said:
everyone has a opinion on how i should build my car. i know 9sec dsm's that run water. whatever the case is im only using water for the time being coolant is going back in.
BTW nick i cant read the graph on ur sig what does the car make?

I can read it fine.
 
MPNick said:
Thats the problem. What do you torque them too. ARP tells you 60. More then that you may have a problem with the stud.

I doubt that.

Why would that happen?

Hell, the only reason that we are even having this thread is because the ARP bolts on CWILL's head weren't tigtened enough by him.

ARP is going into MY build, I tell you that.
 
Last edited:
MPNick said:
We all know what happens with rust when you just run water.

My thinking is more about higher boost levels and very high temp around the chambers of the cylinder head. That is where you can get boiling water and air pockets. Just plain water will not remove the heat from around the chambers as well as coolant can. This can cause detonation and lifting of the head. He is running hotter cylinder head temps with water then with running water/coolant mix. Not what you see on the temp gauge but around the cylinder head. I would use something like Evans Cool in a high boost engine. We have been able to run high boost with less timing retard with this stuff then with just water or coolant.

http://www.evanscooling.com/main11.htm

they have a great product called distilled water (thumb)
 
65racecoupe said:
I doubt that.

Why would that happen?

Hell, the only reason that we are even having this thread is because the ARP bolts on CWILL's head weren't tigtened enough by him.

ARP is going into MY build, I tell you that.

So you are going to torque them more then the what ARP tells you to do?
 
yeah that doesn't make sense. if they said 60, it's 60 for a reason. no more no less. if you could torque it higher, they would've told you to torque it at that number.
 
MPNick said:
So you are going to torque them more then the what ARP tells you to do?

ARP head studs yield at 110ft of TQ on 30wt.
ARP recommends the following TQ specs
moly lube 70-75ft
30wt oil 90-95ft

These are direct numbers from one of the engineers at ARP.
The first few patches with instructions telling people 60-65ft on oil was printed wrong. That has been corrected. If torqued on 30wt oil to 90ft you are 82% capacity.
 
benzete said:
weird. why would they tell him 60 when he called them twice..

No idea why they told him that. Could have been someone that is there to answer the phones and read out of the book. When I called today I got a women who didn't know the answers to my questions. So I asked to speak with engineering. Got all the answers in 5 minutes.
 
Last edited:
water transfers heat BETTER than glycol until you reach spot boiling points.. then you are screwed... and the problem compounds... pressurizing the system buy you a few degrees...

We have 160F thermostats on hand if any of you guys want some of them... they are pricey bitches though.
 
MPNick said:
OK I see that you have never used it.

Let me run to the store a minute.

Ok, lets see. 95% of the coolant sold included at least 50% distilled water.

But back to the point. Is there anyone who properly installed the ARPs thats had a problem? Of course if people aren't installing them right there will be incidents. Its just that with TTY bolts, you can't screw up ;) so you never hear of an idiot having problems with TTY bolts ?
 
When I blew my motor my ARP studs were at 85 no problems, after I put my motor back together still no problems and they are at 90 now. no coolant where its not suppose to be and no oil anywhere either. When I blew my head gasket on the stock internals when I upgraded the turbo my stock head bolts were stretched and bent and the ARPs have nothing wrong with them. I still dont know why you would want stretch bolts on a high performance motor
 
MPNick said:
What about the lower boiling point of water and your cylinder head temps?

Actually, the higher % water you run in your motor, the higher the boiling temp will be.

IE, more water = better for cooling.

Some race cars run 95% water for it's cooling properties, and 5% coolant since it lubricates the system, etc.
 
Back