Big Brakes!

daedalus said:
I'm upgrading my MC to the 929 Unit for the Wilwood 6 Pistons.... Why not... it cant hurt, and i'm sure the brakes would make use of it.

How hard/expensive is that mod? (the MC)
 
damn! 25 bucks?! The cheapest I'm seeing on there is 75! I can get the brand new from mazda motorsports for 164 bucks. That seems ok to me. Maybe in the future.
-mateo
 
I've been looking at Wilwood's catalog for parts that would work on a Protege and this is what I've come up with:

GT Series Fixed Mount Rotor Hats
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  • Rotor Bolt Circle: 8x7.00"
  • Wheel Lug Pattern: 5x4.50"
  • Hat Offset: .81"
  • Stud Hole Diameter: .50"
  • Center Hole ID: 2.66" or 67.56mm
  • Face Thickness: .24"
  • Clearance ID: 5.90"
  • Mount Hole: 5/16-18
Part Number: 170-8320 Bolt Kit #: 230-8390

HD Series Rotors

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  • Diamter: 12.19"
  • Width: .81"
  • Bolt Circle: 8x7.00"
  • Hole Size: .313"
  • Far Side ID: 8.41"
  • Lug ID: 6.38"
  • Weight: 9.5lbs
Left PN: 160-7706 Right PN: 160-7705

Billet Dynalite Caliper
mounting.gif

  • Bore Sizes: 1.38", 1.62" & 1.75"
  • All for .81" Discs
  • PN's vary
  • Width: ~4.15"
If someone wants to do the calcs for piston bore diameter feel free. Otherwise I'll do them sometime... When I swap my new rotors on I'll get some measurements from the hub and existing caliper mount. I've already CAD'd the Wilwood parts, so I can put them on the hubs asap. I could also make a template to check for caliper clearance too, I guess...

The Wilwood rotors I listed are a tad thinner than OEMs but it shouldn't be a concern, the vanes and the rotor should keep things cool.
 
anyone interested in a DIY kit? I can make the caliper brackets and brake lines then let the owner buy the Wilwood parts. I'm gonna look into a thicker rotor than the .81" one I have listed above.

I've decided to keep my stock brakes for awhile since the local track isn't too rough on brakes. If a DFW guy wants to upgrade to the Wilwoods, I can use their car for test fitting everything.
 
yellerandahalf said:
I mean I'm experiencing brake fade. Whether it's pad fade or boiling fluid I do not know. I am running carbotech bobcats on all 4 corners on the street (which is where the most recent fade has occurred, on an AWESOME section of downhill). I run bobcats on the rear and panther plus on the track, but haven't been back since I've got the new power. However, on challenging sections of road, I have experienced fade where I did not before, even at a measly 11psi (run 16psi on track).
All of the ideas posted here are very interesting but before spending big $$$ I would suggest you try more aggressive pads and one of the different fluids suggested. If that doesn't do enough, you could add cooling ducts to get even more low $ performance. SCCA racers in SS and IT classes have to stay with the stock rotors and calipers and do fairly well changing only the pads and fluid and (of course) tires.

I use Carbotech XP9 pads with ATE Super Blue fluid and r-compounds and haven't notice much fade, but I am n/a so my speeds aren't as great as a modded MSP. The other consideration may be your tire compound and braking style. If you are on the ABS alot, that will cause the temps to skyrocket and a stickier tire may help. For a relatively light car like ours, the stock brakes are really pretty decent, as shown by the SS and IT racers.
 
Yep, with EBC yellows upfront and Motul fluid, the stock brakes have been pretty sufficient with no noticable fade... that's why I'm waiting on upgrading to larger rotors/calipers
 
Ok, car(MSP@~250whp) underwent track testing a few weeks ago. XP10 front/XP8 rear pads, super blue fluid. Didn't actually notice any fade. Problem was, the car blew up on the third lap of the second session, so I didn't really have a chance to beat on them hard. DOH!!!
-Mateo
 
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