Best OEM replacement option Oil.

sway777

Member
:
2014.5 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD W/Tech Pack/Jet Black Mica
Hey guys, i know I'm beating a dead horse here but Ive been getting mixed reviews on what is the best alternative option to Mazda's OEM oil. I have a 2014 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD 2.5L engine. I hear Castrol and some others say Mobil. Can you please help me with the best alternative oil, quantity and what else I need to do a full oil change myself? Please help me out and if you are going to be negative keep your comments to yourself please. I'm sure I'm not the only one here with this question, I would really appreciate some help please. Thank you for your time guys!!!
 
My dealer doesn't carry it, and the closest one is about 2 hours. I just don't know where to purchase any and exactly what kind i need for my vehicle. I know i don't know a lot but I'm looking to learn.
 
I'm not trying to be negative but have you tried the search function? Or a Google search? It only takes a few seconds and you'll probably get a straighter answer. There was a post about this subject just the other day and at least 2 others since a couple weeks when I started participating. Anyways, everyone's view on this subject is subjective unless test results from a laboratory is involved. I did a quick Google search and saw this on Mazda's website, hope it helps.-


Changing the engine oil should be performed by an Authorized Mazda Dealer.

Refer to Introduction for owner's responsibility in protecting your investment.

Recommended Oil

U.S.A. and CANADA

0W-20 full synthetic recommended:

Mazda Genuine Oil is used in your Mazda vehicle and is the recommended 0W-20 lubricant. Mazda Genuine 0W-20 Oil is required to achieve optimum fuel economy.

Recommended viscosity: SAE 0W-20 For maintenance service, Mazda recommends Mazda Genuine Parts and Castrol (U.S.A. only).





Only use SAE 0W-20 oil with the American Petroleum Institute (API) symbol and ILSAC GF-5.

Oil with this trademark symbol conforms to the current engine and emission system protection standards and fuel economy requirements of the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC), comprised of U.S.

and Japanese automobile manufacturers
.





Except U.S.A. and CANADA

Use SAE 5W-30 engine oil.

Oil container labels provide important information.

A chief contribution this type of oil makes to fuel economy is reducing the amount of fuel necessary to overcome engine friction.

For maintenance service, Mazda recommends Mazda Genuine Parts and Castrol (Mexico only).





(Mexico)

Use SAE 5W-30 engine oil. If SAE 5W- 30 engine oil is not available, use SAE 5W-20 engine oil.

The quality designation SM, or ILSAC must be on the label.





Inspecting Engine Oil Level

1. Be sure the vehicle is on a level surface.
2. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.
3. Turn it off and wait at least 5 minutes for the oil to return to the oil pan.
4. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, and reinsert it fully.



5. Pull it out again and examine the level.

The level is normal if it is between Low and Full.

If it is near or below Low, add enough oil to bring the level to Full.

CAUTION

Do not add engine oil over Full. This may cause engine damage.

6. Make sure the O-ring on the dipstick is positioned properly before reinserting the dipstick.
7. Reinsert the dipstick fully.
 
Last edited:
Best alternative oil? None. Yes, none. Heck, you will be hard pressed to find the "best" oil overall for your car. Everybody has an opinion on oil. And everybody has reasons for choosing what they do. Some good, and have done their research, some not so good, "it's oil."

My vote is for the Mazda oil, have it shipped in if necessary. Second - any brand name 0-20 that meets all the specs that Skorpio posted.
 
My dealer doesn't carry it, .

Sorry for the dumb question, but what does the dealer do when you bring your vehicle in for an oil change??

My CX5 is too new and I get the first couple changes for free. But after that, I like doing my own service, and from the sounds of it, the mazda oil is the easiest to find.
 
Last edited:
Full disclosure: I'm an Amsoil dealer, I'd of course recommend it.

However: If it meets the specs, a SEVERE service interval as stated in the manual will be fine. So API-SN/GF-5 in a 0W-20 and be happy.

Don't use a K&N AIR filter EVER.

EVER.

It's that simple for oil related maintenance.

As far as use, let the idle drop to almost warm idle before driving it. Oil will take ~10 miles to fully come to temperature, no hot dogging before then. Remember all the other driveline fluids still need to warm up before having fun as well. On multi-stop trips, travel to the farthest stop first if possible to help fully warm the engine and driveline.

Don't think too hard!
 
Sorry for the dumb question, but what does the dealer do when you bring your vehicle in for an oil change??

My CX5 is too new and I get the first couple changes for free. But after that, I like doing my own service, and from the sounds of it, the mazda oil is the easiest to find.

Most dealer will use Castrol unless you specify them to use Mazda Oil which would probably cost more/extra.
 
My dealer (Mazda Oakland) is still speccing the Mazda branded GF-5 for which they charge $7.50/qt when they do your oil.
 
Skorpio...Thank you so much for the information! I will look into buying the Mazda Oil then, I just found some on Amazon. I appreciate your help!
 
Last edited:
I thought they were going to use the Mazda Oil but they used Castrol. I was pissed since they even recommended i used Mazdas Oil but they do not carry it. Its here in Cali, Ontario area. But after y'alls help i will order some online from the specs y'all helped me out with and research on how to do it myself. If not take it to a pro to do it for me with all OEM items needed.
 
A dealer can order Mazda oil. To change oil you will need an 8mm allan wrench and I use a cap oil filter wrench (Fram at Wallmart). I also use ramps to make extra room but, not absolutly needed.
Do a search in the file "Hove to do it" on this site to find oil change info and pictures. I use Pennzoil Plantinum mayself. (Wallmart for ~ $28/5Q jug). Ed
 
F-106 oil valve is a good investment. No more ******* around with a drain plug, you simply undo spring loaded the lever, put a hose on it if you so choose and let it drain. The nice part is you can flip it while it's hot and not worry about hot oil on your hand or a messy glove. Then by the time it's drained you can just take the filter off (which should be hand tight anyways).
 
A dealer can order Mazda oil. To change oil you will need an 8mm allan wrench and I use a cap oil filter wrench (Fram at Wallmart). I also use ramps to make extra room but, not absolutly needed.
Do a search in the file "Hove to do it" on this site to find oil change info and pictures. I use Pennzoil Plantinum mayself. (Wallmart for ~ $28/5Q jug). Ed

Thank you for your help!
 
F-106 oil valve is a good investment. No more ******* around with a drain plug, you simply undo spring loaded the lever, put a hose on it if you so choose and let it drain. The nice part is you can flip it while it's hot and not worry about hot oil on your hand or a messy glove. Then by the time it's drained you can just take the filter off (which should be hand tight anyways).

Thanks for the tip, I'm gonna do that.
 
F-106 oil valve is a good investment. No more ******* around with a drain plug, you simply undo spring loaded the lever, put a hose on it if you so choose and let it drain. The nice part is you can flip it while it's hot and not worry about hot oil on your hand or a messy glove.

I don't get this.

I've done a lot of oil changes over the course of my life using the standard oil drain plugs. I use a ratchet with appropriate socket/Allen fitting. This puts my hand out of the path of the hot oil. I let the plug fall into the drain funnel where I can easily retrieve and re-install. No glove is necessary.

I like the simplicity and security of a plug (and there is no need to shell out more money for an un-needed valve).
 
I don't get this.

I've done a lot of oil changes over the course of my life using the standard oil drain plugs. I use a ratchet with appropriate socket/Allen fitting. This puts my hand out of the path of the hot oil. I let the plug fall into the drain funnel where I can easily retrieve and re-install. No glove is necessary.

I like the simplicity and security of a plug (and there is no need to shell out more money for an un-needed valve).

I agree with this. I have maybe 500 oil changes +/-100(meaning I don't count but done ALOT) under my belt and have never had a problem with a drain plug, unless someone else rounded it off. Plus that oil valve introduces an additional possibility of leakage/failure. And I have seem some fail. I wouldn't risk losing my engine's blood for a little bit of an easier method. But that's just my (ex technician) opinion.
 
Last edited:
Sorry for the dumb question, but what does the dealer do when you bring your vehicle in for an oil change??

My CX5 is too new and I get the first couple changes for free. But after that, I like doing my own service, and from the sounds of it, the mazda oil is the easiest to find.

Many dealers use bulk oil from a 55 gallon drum attached to digital pump. But, I haven't had mine in at Mazda to confirm that they do this.
 
I don't get this.

I've done a lot of oil changes over the course of my life using the standard oil drain plugs. I use a ratchet with appropriate socket/Allen fitting. This puts my hand out of the path of the hot oil. I let the plug fall into the drain funnel where I can easily retrieve and re-install. No glove is necessary.

I like the simplicity and security of a plug (and there is no need to shell out more money for an un-needed valve).

I had a valve on a previous car. It made the oil changes easier. But not that much easier. As you say, it cuts one series of steps out - get rachet and socket and loosen, dig plug out and wipe it off. It does help in specific instances where the oil drain plug is poorly designed and located, and dumps oil on a cross brace, drive shaft, or exhaust. You can get valves with a hose connection allowing you to reduce the plashing and mess.

Some folks really like them, others, don't see the need.

Its dealing with the oil filter that I don't like. Upside down, and dumping hot oil onto you. I like BMW's (and others) solution of a filter on top of the engine, without an external case. Drain the oil, remove the top, lift filter and let it drain back into the engine for a minute, then (holding a paper towel under it) dispose of it. Much cleaner and simpler.
 
have had those valves on 2 of my cars for a combined 130k miles and no leaks or issues/failures.

does make it nice and easy to drain w/out getting messy. can use a small tube and fill right into a jug, measuring the output too.

Again i feel that if the mazda 0w-20 w/ moly isn't available, any ILSAC GF-5 and API that you prefer will work.
 
Back