2013~2016 Belt Tensioner - Shouldn't this be a warranty item?

[yrwei52]

Yeah, I should modify my original statement and say it's not too bad to get off. As per the manual, you just use a rag to pull it off as you turn the belt. That part not too difficult. Getting the new one on was an absolute B*tch. I would advise you buy one of the wedge-style belt install kits available on Amazon before you do this. I did not and really wish I had!

Based on some reports, I believe if you use OEM water pump stretch belt, it’d be easier to put on as the one-size-fit-all aftermarket belt (Gates?) seems to be a bit smaller than OEM belt.

 

[RedBaron]

Based on some reports, I believe if you use OEM water pump stretch belt, it’d be easier to put on as the one-size-fit-all aftermarket belt (Gates?) seems to be a bit smaller than OEM belt.

Hah! Well, the new one was a Gates belt

 

[Jmaz]

Hah! Well, the new one was a Gates belt

Ha! Well that'll teach ya.

 

[yrwei52]

Ha! Well that'll teach ya.

I’ve learned the lesson during the long period of my DIY experience. I’ll use OEM parts all the time (belts、filters、ATF、etc.), even though they usually are more expensive. OEM parts will be the most compatible, and the best fit for replacement. This prevents me wasting my valuable labor time in case the parts don’t fit perfectly.

 

[Mike_R]

Replaced the belts and tensioner today on my 2019 AWD non-turbo and wanted to add this these notes:

1.
The top bolt/nut on the tensioner was pretty tight and easily rounded with a 12 point box end wrench.

I would definitely recommend only using a 6 point wrench or socket (which is always good advice on a car) and recommend accessing it through the wheel well using a socket driver and a 3+ inch extension. This would also allow a torque wrench (17-22 ft lb, info thanks to Digbicks1234). Pic attached showing where I did that.

If you don't use a socket, I'd recommend buying a new nut (part #19994-00-801, info thanks to Digbicks1234).



The bottom bolt wasn't as tight but could not be accessed with my sockets/driver (I used a regular length box wrench from below) so I'd also recommend a 6 point wrench to break that free. Once it's broken free, any wrench can be used without fear of rounding the bolt and ratcheting wrench offers quite a bit of convenience but if you're using a box end wrench you must stop before the bolt is fully loose and touches the car's frame because then your wrench will be stuck on the bolt.

I'd also recommend a new bolt just in case it rounds (part #9YA0-2A-818, info thanks to Digbicks1234)

2.
Some people reported that Gates and Dayco water pump belts were excessively small and extremely hard to get on.
But aftermarket belts have the advantage of EPDM rubber which lasts way longer so I tried a Continential 4030325S.

It was fairly easy to get on using the zip tie trick - zip tie the belt in the correct place on the bottom of the pulley and then as it rotates around it will stay in the correct place. Just stop spinning and cut the zip tie before the zip tie tries to make another rotation.

I also used a Continental alternator belt which seems to fit well. The tensioner indicator is about 60% towards the max/right/front end of car mark. I'm not sure where it normally is with a new OEM belt.

And I've attached pictures of the numbers on my original tensioner which hasn't leaked at 62,000 miles. At least at some point people were interested in those.


Thanks to everyone who has shared details, pictures, and guides!

 

[RedBaron]

Some people reported that aftermarket water pump belts were excessively tight and extremely hard to get on.

Yes! I used a Gates belt and it was a BEAR!

It was fairly easy to get on using the zip tie trick - zip tie the belt in the correct place on the bottom of the pulley and then as it rotates around it will stay in the correct place.

Great idea! Too late for me

 

[yrwei52]

Replaced the belts and tensioner today on my 2019 AWD non-turbo and wanted to add this these notes:

1.
The top bolt/nut on the tensioner was pretty tight and easily rounded with a 12 point box end wrench.

I would definitely recommend only using a 6 point wrench or socket (which is always good advice on a car) and recommend accessing it through the wheel well using a socket driver and a 3+ inch extension. This would also allow a torque wrench (17-22 ft lb, info thanks to Digbicks1234). Pic attached showing where I did that.

If you don't use a socket, I'd recommend buying a new nut (part #19994-00-801, info thanks to Digbicks1234).

The bottom bolt wasn't as tight and couldn't be accessed with my sockets/driver (I used a regular length box wrench from below) so I'd also recommend a 6 point wrench for that.
I'd also recommend a new one of that just in case it rounds (part #9YA0-2A-818, info thanks to Digbicks1234)

2.
Some people reported that aftermarket water pump belts were excessively tight and extremely hard to get on.
But aftermarket belts have the advantage or EPDM rubber which lasts way longer so I tried a Continential 4030325S.

It was fairly easy to get on using the zip tie trick - zip tie the belt in the correct place on the bottom of the pulley and then as it rotates around it will stay in the correct place. Just stop spinning and cut the zip tie before the zip tie tries to make another rotation.

I also used a Continental alternator belt which seems to fit well. The tensioner indicator is about 60% towards the max/right/front end of car mark. I'm not sure where it normally is with a new OEM belt.

And I've attached pictures of the numbers on my original tensioner which hasn't leaked at 62,000 miles. At least at some point people were interested in those.

Thanks to everyone who has shared details, pictures, and guides!

Thanks for the report of your experience on replacing the tensioner and sharing the pictures. Somehow I’m getting “The requested content cannot be loaded” error from your first picture.

Can you tell us what kind of tensioner you’re using? If you use an OEM, what is the current part number?

Looks like the Continental 4030325S water pump stretch belt is better suited for our CX-5 size-wise than other aftermarket belts such as the Gates belt.

 

[Mike_R]

Thanks for the report of your experience on replacing the tensioner and sharing the pictures. Somehow I’m getting “The requested content cannot be loaded” error from your first picture.

Can you tell us what kind of tensioner you’re using? If you use an OEM, what is the current part number?

Looks like the Continental 4030325S water pump stretch belt is better suited for our CX-5 size-wise than other aftermarket belts such as the Gates belt.

Is the picture showing up now? I replaced it with one that has better labels and it may have taken a minute for the site to update.


I used a an INA from RockAuto ($40). RockAuto lists the part number as FT01291 but I forgot to check the numbers on the tensioner before installing it.

 

[yrwei52]

Is the picture showing up now? I replaced it with one that has better labels and it may have taken a minute for the site to update.

Yes, I can see both pictures now.

I used a an INA from RockAuto ($40). RockAuto lists the part number as FT01291 but I forgot to check the numbers on the tensioner before installing it.

OEM tensioner has INA mark on it, but the price is tri-fold with a Mazda logo.

 

[Deserever]

I agree. That’s why I have wait-and-see attitude and postpone the leaky belt tensioner replacement at this time.

I actually stopped by my Mazda dealer checking out the OEM belt tensioner while I was gettin a new OEM battery. The parts guy whom I know well showed me the current part number for belt tensioner from Mazda parts screen and surprisingly it’s PE03-15-980C with the MSRP still at $147.86. Based on the system PET2-15-980 has been superseded by PE03-15-980C months ago, and PE03-15-980C tensioner is the one they’re getting currently from Mazda. He brought both tensioners out and the serial number on older PET2-15-980 tensioner is F-569897.13 which indicates it’s a revised version. But the serial number on newer PE03-15-980C tensioner is F-569897.10, which is unrevised version based on the TSB! They looked exactly the same as far as I can tell, and I didn’t see different shapes on tensioner damper like the TSB stated. What a mess!

Old thread revival, did anyone figure out what the revision actually was? I'm guessing it's internal?

It's been a while so I'm wondering if the revisions have been holding up for anyone that is still around. I'm on a supercharged 3rd gen 2.5L so the car is putting a lot more stress on the tensioner than stock. My oem tensioner (.10) was leaking at ~50k miles and I replaced it with a gates 39390 after installing the supercharger. Currently I'm on my 3rd one. The replacements were free under warranty but I'm thinking of trying the oem one because it's a hassle to keep replacing them every 5-10k miles. The mazda supercharger community is small and the tensioner is a known consumable item and longevity has been hit or miss. Most use the gates because it's cheap and has a lifetime warranty but I've never heard of an oem revision until coming across this thread.

 

[Lazy2.5]

Ehm, my Mazsda 6 with over 342,xxxKM is still on the original tensioner. It has some dried up oil on it from an old valve cover gasket leak. The serpentine belt has been replaced before. The tensioner is still fine.

 

[Jmaz]

Old thread revival, did anyone figure out what the revision actually was? I'm guessing it's internal?

It's been a while so I'm wondering if the revisions have been holding up for anyone that is still around. I'm on a supercharged 3rd gen 2.5L so the car is putting a lot more stress on the tensioner than stock. My oem tensioner (.10) was leaking at ~50k miles and I replaced it with a gates 39390 after installing the supercharger. Currently I'm on my 3rd one. The replacements were free under warranty but I'm thinking of trying the oem one because it's a hassle to keep replacing them every 5-10k miles. The mazda supercharger community is small and the tensioner is a known consumable item and longevity has been hit or miss. Most use the gates because it's cheap and has a lifetime warranty but I've never heard of an oem revision until coming across this thread.

I can only give my experience but the original tensioner on my 2014 leaked at 29k miles. Was past 3/36 warranty so not covered there and not a covered item period under 5/60 powertrain warranty. Installed OEM Mazda tensioner that now ~49k miles later is fine. If needing replacement again I'd look at INA branded.
Regarding Gates, to me they are part of the aftermarket parts crapshoot and I gave up on their stuff long ago. That means no Gates belts, thermostats, radiator caps, locking gas caps, belt tensioners etc. To me anymore they are just another name with no guarantee of imputed quality.

 

[Deserever]

I can only give my experience but the original tensioner on my 2014 leaked at 29k miles. Was past 3/36 warranty so not covered there and not a covered item period under 5/60 powertrain warranty. Installed OEM Mazda tensioner that now ~49k miles later is fine. If needing replacement again I'd look at INA branded.
Regarding Gates, to me they are part of the aftermarket parts crapshoot and I gave up on their stuff long ago. That means no Gates belts, thermostats, radiator caps, locking gas caps, belt tensioners etc. To me anymore they are just another name with no guarantee of imputed quality.

Good to know. I know most of the boosted community has assumed the gates is more durable than the oem one but perhaps most of them just had faulty ones from the start and the idea proliferated. We also use HD gates belts but there are not a lot of options in the needed sizes.