Bang for the buck mods on stock MSP

[hotrodf1]

Guys,

Have a 03.5 MSP , stock, wanting another 30-50 HP safely, without doing "major" stuff.

Recommendations? (okay, this may be a bit much for one thread)

ON the reading I've done thus far it looks like:

1) SMIC - cool the charge better to make way for
2) Add the spring to the wastegate - seems like a great way to increase boost safely and reliably and cheaply !!(drive2)
3) Add 1 step colder plugs at that time as well. Iridium's or copper race type?
4) 626 Manifold - does this really provide +>20 HP like everyone says?
5) I have custom built the exhaust on both my 48 and 68 and I could fab a 3" system up. - I still need to research this topic, but I like the flowmaster sound on 4 cyl.s He he. Deeper tone it seems.

Seems like those mods would get me to my goal easily and safely. I dont' plan on taking it to the track at all.

MSP will be "fun" daily driver. Have a 700 HP (on nitrous) 68 Camaro in the garage for tearin people up on the weekends. I'm not looking to push the limits of the MSP, just add some reliable fun HP to the already excellent car.

Any input much appreciated . . ... (drive)

 

[orlandomsp]

Hell if I had the money to burn I'd buy the SMIC, the 626 IM, a 3 TBE, and tuning (unichp FTW) in that order.

 

[geomatics_tech]

I did a turbo hoses smic and hard pipes first, then a 2.5' catted mid pipe and then a greddy profec b spec 2 and a unichip. Car drives much better now, best mod was the smic IMO.

The split second afc is also a very good choice for ems.

My next mods wil be a 626 IM and Focus's exhaust mani..... .....and an ATP wastegate actuator.

 

[II-Savy]

Keep it stock, drive it.

 

[hotrodf1]

Keep it stock, drive it.

maybe for a little while . . .

I have always hated stock. Just cuz.

Might not do the intake. - we'll see. I saw the dyno graph, and it started at 5K RPM. So below that, does the 626 manifold suck or what?

 

[hotrodf1]

I did a turbo hoses smic and hard pipes first, then a 2.5' catted mid pipe and then a greddy profec b spec 2 and a unichip. Car drives much better now, best mod was the smic IMO.

The split second afc is also a very good choice for ems.

My next mods wil be a 626 IM and Focus's exhaust mani..... .....and an ATP wastegate actuator.

Why the wastegate actuator? What's wrong with the stocker?

 

[alexB]

maybe for a little while . . .

I have always hated stock. Just cuz.

Might not do the intake. - we'll see. I saw the dyno graph, and it started at 5K RPM. So below that, does the 626 manifold suck or what?

Nope. If you have seen the inside of the stock manifold you would truely understand how restrictive it is. I mean everyone who has driven the MSP should understnad how fast the turbo spool is. Hardly any lag at all. All the VITCS( or whatever its called) does is cause restriction really.

 

[orng1]

Actually the actuator does suck. It has been the known cause of a few cars blowing up, causes erratic idle and vac loss. I'd replace it just as a preventive measure.

 

[hotrodf1]

Actually the actuator does suck. It has been the known cause of a few cars blowing up, causes erratic idle and vac loss. I'd replace it just as a preventive measure.

With an aftermarket or another stock type?? Can a person take the stock one apart and rebuild or clean, etc.??

I've heard talk about an ATP actuator or something. Would that be suitable? What about the spring mod - I'm assuming that mod would work on whatever actuator you had.

Sorry for the stupid questions . .. big learning curve here. (confused)

 

[69RMSP]

From what I understand the major diff between the ATP wga and the OEM wga is that there is a spring on the oem wga. The ATP wga does not have a spring and is set to 6psi from factory. The spring mod works on the oem wga because it has a spring to control boost.

I would recommend getting atps just becuase the oem wga is most likely go to fail on you. Also the oem wga is around 2-300 dollars to replace.

regarding modding your speed.

Smic/FMIC
Exhaust
IM
Plugs
DSM afc
8-10 psi
motor mounts
between 190-220 wheel

precaution
j&s knock detector
EM
10-12 psi

With an aftermarket or another stock type?? Can a person take the stock one apart and rebuild or clean, etc.??

I've heard talk about an ATP actuator or something. Would that be suitable? What about the spring mod - I'm assuming that mod would work on whatever actuator you had.

Sorry for the stupid questions . .. big learning curve here. (confused)

 

[hotrodf1]

From what I understand the major diff between the ATP wga and the OEM wga is that there is a spring on the oem wga. The ATP wga does not have a spring and is set to 6psi from factory. The spring mod works on the oem wga because it has a spring to control boost.

I would recommend getting atps just becuase the oem wga is most likely go to fail on you. Also the oem wga is around 2-300 dollars to replace.

regarding modding your speed.

Smic/FMIC
Exhaust
IM
Plugs
DSM afc
8-10 psi
motor mounts
between 190-220 wheel

precaution
j&s knock detector
EM
10-12 psi

Thanks for the reply. . .

what is IM??

 

[Hypnotized]

I would go with a FMIC, exhaust, some type of intake and afc. When I had my MSP i had the MAF relocated and had my Greddy BOV venting and my car ran so much smoother than any other setup I had on it before. Goodluck.

 

[orng1]

what is IM??

Intake manifold

 

[hotrodf1]

I would go with a FMIC, exhaust, some type of intake and afc. When I had my MSP i had the MAF relocated and had my Greddy BOV venting and my car ran so much smoother than any other setup I had on it before. Goodluck.

You relocate the MAF AFTER the BOV so that the ECM doesn't get so confused or what?

What other tuning to the ECU is required to relocate the MAF?? Or will the ECU adapt okay?

 

[hotrodf1]

Intake manifold

(2thumbs)

How did I not see that . . .

 

[mspHtown]

You relocate the MAF AFTER the BOV so that the ECM doesn't get so confused or what?

What other tuning to the ECU is required to relocate the MAF?? Or will the ECU adapt okay?

or u could run teh stock bpv with a bov and the car will run smoothly.

 

[ChopstickHero]

a catless exhaust is really good, but can be expensive if you go for a nice system. but a SMIC for sure is a good bang for the buck.

 

[hotrodf1]

a catless exhaust is really good, but can be expensive if you go for a nice system. but a SMIC for sure is a good bang for the buck.

If I decide to go catless, what do I need to do to avoid the CEL? Fool the O2 ??

I can fab a 3" exhaust for this thing myself no prob. Much cheaper. Was worried about the cat, though. Flow, size, etc.

 

[orng1]

Just put a non fouler in with the second O2 in the exhaust. That way the ECU thinks it's functioning normally. I've got mine set up that way and haven't had a single issue from it.

 

[baconbitz]

Somebody mention the stock intake mani? I hate this thing, thank god I got the PG one. Big difference. BTW there is a write up in the how to section on how to eliminate the cel from the cat-less exhaust. I have pics on my phone of the PG manifold but I havent figured out how to get them on the PC yet.