bad/rough idle

[speedin]

ok, here is the scoop. my sister in law borrowed the car and over-heated it which then exploded the radiator. i replaced the radiator, rad cap, plugs, t-stat, headgasket, timing belt, timing belt tensioner/spring, valve cover gasket, intake mani gasket and head (only because i screwed the one up that was on the car on the first re-build) and cleaned the EGR. i had a huge cloud of white sweet smoke following me around which is why i did the gasket but never did a pressure test. last night i started her up and it runs really rough and eventually stalls out. i noticed that the spring is a tad stretched out and that on the idler pully side the timing belt has some give to it. it was to late last night (neighbors) to dig into it any further. my thought is i may be a touch out of time with the spring not keeping the correct amount of tension on the belt. everything from what i could see was reconnected and secure. i am just throwing this out there so i have ideas/direction when i go home tonight.

 

[owenwes]

When the car originally over heated did you just replace the radiator, cap, thermostat, and then start it up or did you have all that work done first before you ever started it up again. You could have left something unplugged like a sensor. Also, recheck all the steps that were done when the head gasket and timing belt were replaced. How many pounds were the head bolt's torqued to? Did you replace the head bolts with new ones?

 

[speedin]

no, everything was replaced, i forgot to prime the oil pump though and smoked the cams



new bolts torqued to 90 ft/lbs, i have triple checked all plugs/hoses. i went home on lunch and reset the timing again just to ensure that is not an issue. timing is good and i ran it for a few and rechecked (after i manually rotated everything) and its still good. it now looks to be burning some oil which could just be some residue from the manual rotation. it is just idling horribly and seems to have a rythem to it. its not violent but its deffinitly not smooth. i guess all in all it still might be some stupid sensor, i will be looking again when i get home tonight.

 

[hornsfan10609]

If the timing is set right maybe the spring was stretched out when installing the belt. I replaced mine when I did the timing belt and it's hard not to mess it up. Check out/clean the crank and cam position sensors.

 

[speedin]

If the timing is set right maybe the spring was stretched out when installing the belt. I replaced mine when I did the timing belt and it's hard not to mess it up. Check out/clean the crank and cam position sensors.

spring was replaced the first time and i replaced it again last night when i worked on it to make sure.

 

[speedin]

i am about done with time/money on this though. maybe time to sell????? (sad1)

 

[speedin]

so i took the plugs out and in cylinder #3 there is oil visable on top of the piston when i look down the valve cover. i now do the compression test i should have done LONG AGO!!!!!!! The tests yield a result of 125, 130 and 135 except #3 where its a BIG FAT "0"! i am assuming my piston rings are still good since the oil collected on top of the piston is not seeping away. now i am thinking something with the valves or valve seals?????

 

[speedin]

bump......

 

[01CrznMp3]

Bingo... I had the same problem. Thats what made me dump the money to finish my forged motor. My number 1 cylinder valve guides were bad leaking oil through into engine. Let the car sit a few days and it would really start to smoke on startup. At some points it was so bad it misfired and caused my check engine light to blink from misfiring. I let the car sit for like a month while building new cylinder head up, when I went to start it to take it to shop and replace head it actually didnt smoke much. I got a video or 2 of the smoke if you want to see it.