Backpressure for Dummies

Gen1GT

Member
This post is in contention of the second-last post in the 'rev-limiter' thread.

Firstly, somebody needs to know the definition of 'side effect.' "A secondary and usually adverse effect - called also side reaction"

If an action causes and undesirable reaction, this is called a side effect.

Secondly, pressurized air is omni-directional. Backpressure creates pressure. Period. Backpressure limits power by increasing pumping forces, and backing spent exhaust gases into the combustion chamber - where it comtaminates the fresh air/fuel charge. And backpressure also causes heat buildup. If you want to go out and create this so-called 'forward pressure,' then by all means, put a straw through a potato, then shove the patato in your tailpipe. Then we'll see how much this 'forward pressure' increases your horsepower. If some backpressure is good, more must be better right?

Thirdly, a manufacturer engineers a redline into a an automobile to set a safe operating limit of its engine. If Mazda engineers decided that the safe operating range of my engine was to 7000RPM, then it will run at 7000RPM all day long with no ill effect. The engine can easily run at 8000RPM in short bursts, or maybe even longer periods, and my car has spend countless days at the dragstrip bouncing off the rev limiter at 7300RPM, doing dozens of dyno pulls up to 7400RPM, and a full year of bouncing off the rev limiter doing autocross. You can bet your ass there has been no ill effects.

Fourthly, an engine's relationship to square has nothing to do with its ability to rev. It's all about its relationship between it's stroke and connecting rods. With a low rod ratio, there are higher accelerative forces, which are what break rods at higher RPM. An engine can have an 80mm stroke, 50mm bore, and have 300mm rods, and it could rev to 10,000RPM without any problems. An engine could also have an 80mm stroke, 110mm bore, and 90mm rods, and it would throw a rod at 5000RPM because of it's low rod ratio, and heavy piston.

Fifthly, the Merriam-Webster definition to redline is "a recommended safetly limit: the fastest, farthest, or highest point or degree considered safe."
NOT(and I quote word for word), "is the point at witch rour engine will not rev any higher. Usually you wil not have a properly funtioning engine when you reach that point. The little red line on your tachometer is just a way of saying your engine is about ready to give tou the ass ******* of a lifetime."

I have, will and do on many occasions, rev my engine PAST redline. I've spent a minute or so bouncing off the rev limiter in one of my carwash bays because I liked the sound.

Sixthly, and I hate to break it to you, there are plenty of high revving Honda engines that are....gasp...undersquare. The legendary Integra Type R B18C5 has an 81mm bore and 87.2mm stroke...yet strangely, it revs easily to 8000RPM.

What else you got?
 
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Listen man, you need to relax. You're the first guy to jump in on a thread with your opinion, so why am I not entitled to the same thing? Everything I said is valid and educational.
 
It was a valid thread, with valid arguements. When the entire thread only consists of ignorant babbling, feel free to use your special powers and close it. But when things must be said, and there's still information to be shared, there's no need for it...
 
i dont know about"the other thread" but your post is pretty much all true.I agree 100%.now you guys can go back to fighting as i dont like to take sides or have any drama when not needed.very tru and informative thread though.nice job.
Gen1GT said:
This post is in contention of the second-last post in the 'rev-limiter' thread.

Firstly, somebody needs to know the definition of 'side effect.' "A secondary and usually adverse effect - called also side reaction"

If an action causes and undesirable reaction, this is called a side effect.

Secondly, pressurized air is omni-directional. Backpressure creates pressure. Period. Backpressure limits power by increasing pumping forces, and backing spent exhaust gases into the combustion chamber - where it comtaminates the fresh air/fuel charge. And backpressure also causes heat buildup. If you want to go out and create this so-called 'forward pressure,' then by all means, put a straw through a potato, then shove the patato in your tailpipe. Then we'll see how much this 'forward pressure' increases your horsepower. If some backpressure is good, more must be better right?

Thirdly, a manufacturer engineers a redline into a an automobile to set a safe operating limit of its engine. If Mazda engineers decided that the safe operating range of my engine was to 7000RPM, then it will run at 7000RPM all day long with no ill effect. The engine can easily run at 8000RPM in short bursts, or maybe even longer periods, and my car has spend countless days at the dragstrip bouncing off the rev limiter at 7300RPM, doing dozens of dyno pulls up to 7400RPM, and a full year of bouncing off the rev limiter doing autocross. You can bet your ass there has been no ill effects.

Fourthly, an engine's relationship to square has nothing to do with its ability to rev. It's all about its relationship between it's stroke and connecting rods. With a low rod ratio, there are higher accelerative forces, which are what break rods at higher RPM. An engine can have an 80mm stroke, 50mm bore, and have 300mm rods, and it could rev to 10,000RPM without any problems. An engine could also have an 80mm stroke, 110mm bore, and 90mm rods, and it would throw a rod at 5000RPM because of it's low rod ratio, and heavy piston.

Fifthly, the Merriam-Webster definition to redline is "a recommended safetly limit: the fastest, farthest, or highest point or degree considered safe."
NOT(and I quote word for word), "is the point at witch rour engine will not rev any higher. Usually you wil not have a properly funtioning engine when you reach that point. The little red line on your tachometer is just a way of saying your engine is about ready to give tou the ass ******* of a lifetime."

I have, will and do on many occasions, rev my engine PAST redline. I've spent a minute or so bouncing off the rev limiter in one of my carwash bays because I liked the sound.

Sixthly, and I hate to break it to you, there are plenty of high revving Honda engines that are....gasp...undersquare. The legendary Integra Type R B18C5 has an 81mm bore and 87.2mm stroke...yet strangely, it revs easily to 8000RPM.

What else you got?
 
Everyone needs to stop agruing about this backpressure crap and just convert to boost. (thumb)
 
First off somebody is missing the point.

Backpressure is the"action" which causes the equal and oposite "Reaction of forward pressure. But that doesn't even begin to scratch the surface. Backpressure will improve gass velosity but that doesn't mean a damn thing unless you have an equal amount of volume or "flow". Differant engines expell differant volumes of gass meaning diferant engines need differant amounts of flow and velosity. And that still doesn't begin to scratch the surface.

Exaust by itself will only increase power one area of the RPM range.(that's only if you manage to tune it just right) It also is a comineation of intake as well. If you have a stiock intake you will usually have less air volume geting the engine. meaning there is an equal amout of exuast volume and you must tune the exaust system to fit the amount of gas your engine is expelling. less gass means less flow is needed in the exaust system. say you have a greater volume of air entering the engine then there will be more volume exiting the engine as well. you will need less restriction to alow the same amount of velocity. and like I said before this still doesn't begin to scratch the surface but we're getting closer.

We also have to factor in the range of RMPs. At higher RPMs your engine is moving much more gass than at an idle. thus you must tune your Intake and exaust to match the increase and decrease of volume. then you have to factoir in the amout of torque and HP your engine is creating at differant RPMs. A stock B6 creates it's peak torque of 92ftlbs at 2500rpms. However it's peak 82HP is achived at 5500RPMS. the trick in tuning your engine is to make the balance of torque and horsepower equal troughout the RPM range this is very tricky and sometoimes imposible to do even with extensive modification. Intake and exaust don't mean s*** if your balance of HP and torque is unequal. I bet most of the members of this forum have come close to achiving the optimum amout of power thier engine can produce. I know someone cranking 520 hp out of a 1994 MPV without forced induction. he is only running a 100 shot of nitro the rest is tuneing. Hell I'd bet youed be suprised what a rutine tunup coutd do to the performance of your engine.; I rebuilt my B6 just for the hell of it and was awed at the differance it made.

And even ater all this we have only begun to scratch the surface. it takes one hel of a mechanic to make an engine perform it's best. and not many of you are capible of that. I'm not.
 
What everyone is missing is the fact that this 'forward pressure,' is not from the backpressure of the exhaust system, which I once again state is undesirable, but from the piston moving up the cylinder. It is the PISTON that pushes the air out(with the aid of scavaging), increasing pressure, and this so-called 'forward pressure', at the same time, creating backpressure where there is a restriction.

One again, the less backpressure, the better. Ideally, you'd want a massive vacuum attached to your tailpipe, sucking everything out(you'd have to adjust cam timing to compensate however).
 
Gen1GT said:
What everyone is missing is the fact that this 'forward pressure,' is not from the backpressure of the exhaust system, which I once again state is undesirable, but from the piston moving up the cylinder. It is the PISTON that pushes the air out(with the aid of scavaging), increasing pressure, and this so-called 'forward pressure', at the same time, creating backpressure where there is a restriction.

One again, the less backpressure, the better. Ideally, you'd want a massive vacuum attached to your tailpipe, sucking everything out(you'd have to adjust cam timing to compensate however).


So you think you know mor than I do right? how is it that i can beat my friends 0-60 time in his escort LX-E with nothing more than a 3" free flowing exaust with my puny B6 323 with compleatly custom manufactured intake. 2" exaust with a nice restrictive 2 chamber flowmaster and a comletely stock drive train? It's simple. I spent tons of time fine tuning every eliment involed in bringing out the full capabliities of a N/A B6. I get 118hpand 113ftlbs of torque all troughout the RPM range. Now if my friend would spend as much time tuning that BP of his he would probaby waste most of you who have gone turbo. The only reason he can still beat me in a race is because my B6tranny will only take me to 120mph where as his g-type passes me at 140.


Now if you truely understood what I am trying to say here is not all flow is good. My friend has less low end power than he would with a stock setup. But once he gets up to 4500rpms watch the **** out.
 

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