A good solid roll bar would probably do the trick. In FSAE the spec is 1.00inx0.095in round steel tubing, which is pretty solid and can take a lot of sliding and grinding on pavement.
The trick would be designing attachment points that still allow the chassis to flex the way it needs to. I could sketch something up in SolidWorks for you if I had some rough dimensions.
Oh I'm sure it'd do the job, and I'm an AutoCAD nerd so the drafting won't be a problem. I'm just wondering if it'd be legal to compete with.
You could easily add a cage on, but anything added on the frame is going to ruin the handling of the kart. The frame is actually the suspension. You would not dream of welding something onto the coil spring of a car's suspension, right? For the same reasons, you don't want to add any additional structural members to the karts frame. It is a very delicate and complicated system, but in order for the kart to turn, the frame has to twist. Since there is no differential, caster in the front suspension lowers the inside tire and raises the outside tire as you turn. This action twists the frame as you turn the wheels, which then unloads the inside rear tire in order to allow the kart to turn. I have experimented with less caster angle and shorter front axle stubs and it doesn't take too much change to get the kart "out of wack" where you can turn the front wheels and the kart just keeps plowing straight ahead.
To fine tune the "suspension" of the kart, you can buy rear axles with different stiffness specs, longer or shorter wheel hubs, seat braces (which provide a more direct load path from the drivers mass to the rear axle bearings) and even seats with different stiffness ratings. These parts along with various settings such as front and rear ride height, front and rear wheel track, seat placement, caster and camber settings, and various choices for steering ackerman give you an infinite number of things to play with ( and theoretically optimize performance) but significantly altering the frame stiffness and / or bending modes would probably get you into an area that could not be compensated for by the limited adjustment ranges available.
Hmm. So theoretically, mounting the roll bar from two places on the chassis, between which see no twist or bend, shouldn't affect the dynamics at all. But that relies on there being a part of the chassis that sees essentially no load. Is there a length of the chassis that doesn't see any torsion or flex?