Awr header=check engine light..

After installing my new AWR header, which I love BTW, about 133 miles the engine light came on.:mad: It runs the same, but I was wondering if there is a way to get rid of it for good. Please don't say unplug it. :D Also, is the ecu going to freak out with this light on? I have tried to reset it, but no luck. It comes back. I read some where about a cheater code or program or something, that will get rid of it. Anybody have any thoughts?

Thanks all!:D

Patrick
 
I'm so glad you asked this question. I was going to start a new thread on this as it's been bugging me for some time now. I'm sure everyone else will tell you to use the search button and you'll find that there is some O2 simulator you can buy and that will fix the problem. Where this may work, it doesn't seem like the smartest way to fix the issue. Basically what's happening is the OBD II computer is causing the CEL. I'm not going to go into great detail as to how it all works, because that would be a vary lengthy explanation. Basically the OBD II system takes two readings from two O2 sensors. One before the cat and one after the cat. When you put in a header, it eliminates your primary cat. So you now have both O2 sensors taking readings before the cat. Since they are going to be reading the same thing, the OBD II is thinking that your cat has gone bad. Seeing how it doesn't know you no longer have a cat between the two sensors. Thus, you get your CEL. The best way to fix this, is to have a O2 bung welded in behind the secondary cat, extend the O2 wires and put your sensor there. Then plug the hole where the second O2 used to be located. This is what I will be doing on my car when I get my header. For more info on the OBD II go to www.obdii.com There is tons of good information there, and it explains your situation better.
 
i feel you man! i hate to say it..... but i knew it would!
this really sucks, i can tell you that ive had the cel light on in my car for 8 months from my header.... so far the car runs awsome.
the cel is from there being no cat between the two sensers, and no change in voltage from one o2 to the other. you could try geting an o2 cheeter and see if it works. i dont have a link for one yet, im sure someone could help you out with one.
so hey pat, hows the power feel now??? hey pat im going to call you in a few. mike
 
joshua69247 said:
I'm so glad you asked this question. I was going to start a new thread on this as it's been bugging me for some time now. I'm sure everyone else will tell you to use the search button and you'll find that there is some O2 simulator you can buy and that will fix the problem. Where this may work, it doesn't seem like the smartest way to fix the issue. Basically what's happening is the OBD II computer is causing the CEL. I'm not going to go into great detail as to how it all works, because that would be a vary lengthy explanation. Basically the OBD II system takes two readings from two O2 sensors. One before the cat and one after the cat. When you put in a header, it eliminates your primary cat. So you now have both O2 sensors taking readings before the cat. Since they are going to be reading the same thing, the OBD II is thinking that your cat has gone bad. Seeing how it doesn't know you no longer have a cat between the two sensors. Thus, you get your CEL. The best way to fix this, is to have a O2 bung welded in behind the secondary cat, extend the O2 wires and put your sensor there. Then plug the hole where the second O2 used to be located. This is what I will be doing on my car when I get my header. For more info on the OBD II go to www.obdii.com There is tons of good information there, and it explains your situation better.

pat i was just going to say this and he beat me two it.
very well said! that is the problem.
i have one question though??? how in the hell do you extend the wires?? is it just normal wire, or do you need to get something special?
 
1FASTMP5 said:
so hey pat, hows the power feel now??? hey pat im going to call you in a few. mike

wuz up mike! the power is alot better than i thought. i have installed headers before, and the power was kinda like, i guess it feels better. but this actually works. the whole power band seems to have changed. more useable tourque, and a good punch at the high end. the sound is great. not too loud imo. kinda stinky, but not bad. i took a few people for a ride last sun at Stephs install party. with five people in the car it felt pretty strong. stronger than i thought it would be with five people in it.
very happy with it.

hey mike, go get the front awr motor mount!! HUGE improvement all around. check your pm for my new #
 
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joshua69247 said:
The best way to fix this, is to have a O2 bung welded in behind the secondary cat, extend the O2 wires and put your sensor there. Then plug the hole where the second O2 used to be located. This is what I will be doing on my car when I get my header. For more info on the OBD II go to www.obdii.com There is tons of good information there, and it explains your situation better.

thank you, josh
 
how in the hell do you extend the wires?? is it just normal wire, or do you need to get something special?

if you wanna do it right go to a junk yard and pull one 02 sensor and cut the connector back a couple of inches back on the harness to the 02 sensor and make your own extension harness. some good insulated wire thats the same size, i'd say what it is but haven't looked so i don't know, and a little bit of shrink wrap it'll look like a factory install. that way the whole system is still weather tight and it doesn't look like a rat nest of wires under the car to give any inspectors a clue.
 
If you are going to go this route, can you order the Header from AWR without the O2 bung? Then you can just have the one after the secondary cat added, and don't have to plug any, you can put the primary O2 Sensor in what was the 2nd O2 sensors bung.

I was thinking of this as well, I noticed some of the Mazdaspeed guys have a downpipe with a "shorty" Random Tech cat, and maybe you could make an intermediate pipe right after the head with two of those, so as to retain two cats for emissions?
 
mypfizzle said:
so is there still no header for our car that wont throw a cel?

full length header? no there isnt. this happened with the zx2s, people had full lengths header some would throw a CEL the next some it woul dbe 6-7 months down the road.

If you want a shorty header that keeps the first cat pm traveler. I have his shortie header with has equal length mendrel bends. and it picked up power fom 3500 and up. my friends can tell a big difference and liek my car (my buddy drove my car before and after headers)
 
mypfizzle said:
so is there still no header for our car that wont throw a cel? [/QUOTE

lets put it this way, there will never be a bolt on header for our obd2 cars that removes the first cat, keeps all the sensers in the stock place's and doesnt throw a cel.
there is a way to make it work, and not throw a cel light.
there are a couple of headers that bolt right up, but you need to move your last o2 senser after the remaining cat(or second cat) then you will not throw a cel light. mike
 
*** thats why apc,obx,aerospeed and the other companies cant seem to come out with one yet. ''they all say in development'' b.s
-mike

** the awr header needs the least amont work done, to get it not to throw a cel light. all you really need to do is get your second o2 senser hole on the header pluged and then have the o2 wires extended. then have a muffler shop weld in an o2 bung right after the only cat left in you ext system.- mike
 
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so if i remove my first cat. will i still be able to pass smog in california? or am i just stuck?
 
in cali you might pass the smog but you wont pass the inspection part. the good thing is that when you buy a new car you dont have to smog it tell like 4-5 years. so ill worry about it then. mike
 
I've had the AWR header on my P5 since May, and was sure it would throw a CEl in the first 100 miles. It came on briefly a few days ago and went out the next day. I know OBDII and don't understand why its not on more, but what the hell.

Without a problem I'm not going to waste my time doing it, but there is a easy fix. Get a 1 meg-ohm, 1/4 watt resistor and a 1 micro-farad capcitor from Radio Shack. Install the resistor in the (+) sensor line and put the cap between the (+) and (-) sensor leads. In the O2 sensor harness the (+) is normally blue and the (-) is white. Its a 100% OBDII fix when the primary cat is removed. It takes all of about 30 min and cost around $1.

Basically it filters the ECU input and creates an OBDII compliant signal.
 
Zeus said:
I've had the AWR header on my P5 since May, and was sure it would throw a CEl in the first 100 miles. It came on briefly a few days ago and went out the next day. I know OBDII and don't understand why its not on more, but what the hell.

Without a problem I'm not going to waste my time doing it, but there is a easy fix. Get a 1 meg-ohm, 1/4 watt resistor and a 1 micro-farad capcitor from Radio Shack. Install the resistor in the (+) sensor line and put the cap between the (+) and (-) sensor leads. In the O2 sensor harness the (+) is normally blue and the (-) is white. Its a 100% OBDII fix when the primary cat is removed. It takes all of about 30 min and cost around $1.

Basically it filters the ECU input and creates an OBDII compliant signal.

Hmmmm... I like the sound of this. Simple, but effective. Do you have a basic diagram on this?
Has anyone tried this?




Patrick
 

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