arg! brakes

[khaosman]

I'm installing my stainless steel lines and Hawk HP+ pads (front only), and it was going decently well. Until then I notice I forgot to put a crush washer back in place on one of the two rear brakes... and after I put the front wheels back on.

I was spinning the front wheels to see make sure everything was okay. The pads seemed to be gripping way too much! In fact they were gripping so much it was making a bad noise, like fingernails on a chalkboard. This isn't normal, is it?

I left the front up, since I figure I'll probably have to mess with those front brakes before going to the back and fixing that problem. I hope I have enough fluid since I'll need to re-bleed those. And the worst part is I don't know which side I forgot the washer on.

damnit. The speed bleeders work well though.

 

[khaosman]

I think I found a possible problem: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=606540&postcount=1

I didn't do step 10... would that cause the dragging? It makes sense but I'd like to know before I spend more time working on this thing

 

[aMaff]

u installed new pads w/o compressing the caliper!? Damn lol. You must be strong. And yes, that would do it. Make sure that before u drive anywhere, start the engine, and pump the brakes a few times to pressurize the system. If ur doing the rears, remember u can't use a clamp, you have to retract them using the gear thing (there's a rear brake how to somewhere...)

 

[khaosman]

lol, thanks aMaff. I'm just changing the front pads and I'm glad--I don't think I could handle the rears too at this point With this key knowledge and my experience from doing all four brakes, hopefully the rest of this will go pretty smoothly and quickly. Makes me wish I had a lift and impact wrench though (even if just for the damn lugnuts)

 

[overdrivex]

on the rear you can use some robo grips to turn the piston .just make sure you dont robogrib the boot that surrounds the piston

 

[traitorhound]

on the rear you can use some robo grips to turn the piston .just make sure you dont robogrib the boot that surrounds the piston

i would just use the adjustment bolt on the back of the rear caliper. using the robogrips creates the chance of being able to score the piston which would cause it to leak= not good.

either that you could actually buy the correct tool to turn the piston back in. or just do it with the adjustment screw.

 

[Dimitrios]

Which stainless lines did you use?

 

[khaosman]

Which stainless lines did you use?

Goodridge lines

 

[Maxx Mazda]

on the rear you can use some robo grips to turn the piston .just make sure you dont robogrib the boot that surrounds the piston

If you want to rebuild your calipers then ya, that's the way to go...

(no)

 

[TheBryGuy]

With the HP + pads you are going to get a lot of noise unless you spray that goo on them. I'm going with the HPS pads just because I don't want to deal with the noise or the dust. SO if you fix everything and still get a lot of noise, that's why.

 

[khaosman]

With the HP + pads you are going to get a lot of noise unless you spray that goo on them. I'm going with the HPS pads just because I don't want to deal with the noise or the dust. SO if you fix everything and still get a lot of noise, that's why.

Goo? Well I don't think it is possible for these stock wheels to attract any more dust than they already do, so that is okay. And with the coilovers and stiff awr rear motor mount, noise isn't too much of a problem.

I'm going to finish this up tomorrow, hopefully. I want to go out buy all new crush washers just to make sure everything is good. Brakes are good to have

 

[aMaff]

I dunno how the HP+ pads are, but I have EBC Greenstuffs, and they're pretty damn dusty. It's a good thing I've got gunmetal wheels lol. The trade off is really good cold performance (as in, they don't need to heat up). However, they do squeak a LITTLE (as in, windows down, u'll hear it. Up, you won't)

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

I have the HPSs, they made some noise until they bedded in with the new rotors. Dustwise they are ok, I have silver rims & dust starts showing after a couple of weeks if you don't wash the car but it doesn't seem any worse than the stock ones were. Out of the pads, rotors & ss lines the ss lines made the biggest single difference in braking, much better pedal. Of course the pads/rotors were a definite improvement too.

 

[P-Funk!]

1. Check the calipers for leaks! That is a sealing washer...

2. Hawk pads have been bery bery good to me!

 

[khaosman]

D'oh, it looks like I have to remove the entire caliper to compress that piston. Those 17mm bolts are fun to get to

 

[aMaff]

ya, you do. And ya, they are.......only, not

 

[khaosman]

ya, you do. And ya, they are.......only, not

Can't wait to go do this! It is a whopping 28F outside... wish I would have finished this the first night when it was on the otherside of freezing (by a lot too, it was almost 50F!!!)

 

[khaosman]

D'oh, c-clamp is not big enough. This shall be the third trip to Sear's. Two trips to AutoZone so far. Hopefully that will be the last one.

Pro-tip: when taking off the top 17mm bolt, don't remove it completely with a socket wrench. Your wrench WILL get stuck inbetween the bolt you are removing and the bolt on the struts. That made for a tense few minutes of hammering.

 

[falsedawn]

You should only have to undo it enough till it's loose enough that you can use your fingers to take it out the rest of the way - same as any bolt!

 

[khaosman]

You should only have to undo it enough till it's loose enough that you can use your fingers to take it out the rest of the way - same as any bolt!

Indeed. This is why my pro-tip states to not try and take it out all the way with a ratchet

I got the big clamp, some Thai food, and then compressed the piston. Wheee! I think I'm about spent though (cheers)