API SP vs. API SN OIL

bojo

2025 Mazda CX5 NA
Ok, I will try to keep this to the point. I tend to write long posts. I have learned WAY more about oil than I ever thought I would I am considering becoming a tribologist when i grow up !! :)

Anyway, When I bought my Mazda 2025 CX5 NON Turbo skyactiv G, from the beginning I thought THIS is the car I want to keep a long time and im going to do everything BY THE BOOK (But “defy the “manual” at times LOL) I decided to do a break in oil change at 800


When 800 miles came along, I bought Mazda oil with moly, no problem online from a reputable dealer, decent oil.


But when i did this, even a few months ago, I wasnt as educated about it all as I am now (thanks to all you great people here)….and not paying attention to the API thing, I just got the “Mazda oil with Moly”.. BUT.. had no idea about API SP , API SN etc.

They sent me the 0w20 GF5 stock. The GF5 is API SN rated, and NOT API SP. Apparently the dealer I bought from, had some leftover stock of it, and shipped me five quarts of THAT and not the newer GF6 Mazda 0w20 oil. So i did the oil change with it.


I only ran the oil 500 miles on that oil, thankfully, because Im obsessed with break in oil changes. I used an API SP oil for the next one after that.


NOTE: In the owners manual on page 510-511, it DOES State that API SN is ok.. BUT its only under the Mexico Turbo section of 5w30. Nothing about that under the US and Canada 0w20 section.

Ive asked a couple good people who dont seem to think it will be a problem but Im also interested in what others in the forum think

Do you think this is an issue or a NON- issue? Especially since this happened on the first break in oil change?
 
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I'd say it's a non-issue. The only concern I'd have (and it's very, very minor) is your maintenance record will show that you used an API SN oil for that oil change, which differs from what the manual recommends. Realistically though, what's most important to show is how well you follow the maintenance schedule. Something like this can be written off as a one time "mistake", but a documented history of late oil changes could easily lead to a warranty claim denial.
 
I'd say it's a non-issue. The only concern I'd have (and it's very, very minor) is your maintenance record will show that you used an API SN oil for that oil change, which differs from what the manual recommends. Realistically though, what's most important to show is how well you follow the maintenance schedule. Something like this can be written off as a one time "mistake", but a documented history of late oil changes could easily lead to a warranty claim denial.
Ah good point. However, in the manual under US and Canada, it only says Use API oil.. doesnt say anything about API-SP vs API SN.. HOwever, under the MEXICO section, it mentions that API-SN is acceptable, but its only under Mexico 5w30 for turbo. Mazda confuses me sometimes! LOL I think whoever wrote the manual just forgot to put it under the US Canada section maybe... OR.. they only recommend the API-SP.. i dont know...
 
Attached is the guidance direct from API. Mazda has been making the NA 2.5L Skyactive motor since 2013 before the SN or SP specs were formalized. I'd say you are good running the SN spec for that short of a time. I'm not an engine oil specialist tho. Apparently API SQ (2025) is the best out on the market now?
 

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Yeah just for the thread, SP is especially important for turbocharged engines due to the reduction of calcium to help prevent low-speed preignition—you shouldn't see more than 1000-1300 on the calcium reading on an oil analysis report. But it also has other benefits like better timing chain wear performance, among other things. They are still trying to get the LSPI protection to last longer, as it is my understanding that this benefit is reduced or lost before the oil itself is really used up.

But just to be fair, SP wasn't around when the Skyactiv-G was developed, nor do you have the turbo, so I doubt it's really an issue. If you had the turbo I would have a different opinion.

Bottom line: yes, SP is always better. The latest always has the latest advancements and most stringent tests to meet. But no, it shouldn't be an issue to use SN in the NA motor, especially not for a short time.
 
Yeah just for the thread, SP is especially important for turbocharged engines due to the reduction of calcium to help prevent low-speed preignition—you shouldn't see more than 1000-1300 on the calcium reading on an oil analysis report. But it also has other benefits like better timing chain wear performance, among other things. They are still trying to get the LSPI protection to last longer, as it is my understanding that this benefit is reduced or lost before the oil itself is really used up.

But just to be fair, SP wasn't around when the Skyactiv-G was developed, nor do you have the turbo, so I doubt it's really an issue. If you had the turbo I would have a different opinion.

Bottom line: yes, SP is always better. The latest always has the latest advancements and most stringent tests to meet. But no, it shouldn't be an issue to use SN in the NA motor, especially not for a short time.
Great info, Thank you!!!!
 
Attached is the guidance direct from API. Mazda has been making the NA 2.5L Skyactive motor since 2013 before the SN or SP specs were formalized. I'd say you are good running the SN spec for that short of a time. I'm not an engine oil specialist tho. Apparently API SQ (2025) is the best out on the market now?
this is great!
 
As everyone else said - You are good. Actually it is great you changed at the 800 miles on the new car.
Next time you can use the new 0w20 Mazda moly (its called eco 7 or similar) if you want but note it is much more expensive oil. Or just use any other SP full synthetic oil.
I dont think there are issues with the old type as long as you change it on time.

The turbo is different story. Mazda didnt have oem full syn oil for it in the past.
 
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As everyone else said - You are good. Actually it is great you changed at the 800 miles on the new car.
Next time you can use the new 0w20 Mazda moly (its called eco 7 or similar) if you want but note it is much more expensive oil. Or just use any other SP full synthetic oil.
I dont think there are issues with the old type as long as you change it on time.

The turbo is different story. Mazda didnt have oem full syn oil for it in the past.
Thanks!!! Yes, actually i just ordered the new stuff last week... however finally made the decision to to switch to 5w30 yesterday! LOL.. so after i use this batch of mazda oil, on the NEXT oil change i will be going with 5w30 just in time for Texas hot summer too..... and even if i was sticking with 0w20.. i still would change because it really is getting ridiculously expensive.. i tend to be brand loyal and all, and ive always been willing to spend good money on good oil, BUT, this oil now starting to surpass amsoil in cost..
 
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Thanks!!! Yes, actually i just ordered the new stuff last week... however finally made the decision to to switch to 5w30 yesterday! LOL.. so after i use this batch of mazda oil, on the NEXT oil change i will be going with 5w30 just in time for Texas hot summer too..... and even if i was sticking with 0w20.. i still would change because it really is getting ridiculously expensive.. i tend to be brand loyal and all, and ive always been willing to spend good money on good oil, BUT, this oil now starting to surpass amsoil in cost..
nothing compared to mazda gear oil-$45 a qt.-wow, dude put a mask on you thief
 
i know some of this is off topic and some things have changed,it does indicate many automakers
are dealing with similar engine issue's-to me it screams of 3k oci...i am already doing that with all my vehicles anyway🧑‍🔧
 
That video doesn't provide any new data on oils.

Yes, it touches on the metal shaving issue with GM. And you're right, we shouldn't be doing long oil change intervals.

But it doesn't provide evidence that Toyota's 0W-8 or 0W-16 are inadequate.

And it doesn't provide evidence that the 0W-20 that Mazda specs is inadequate.

The way one would do that would be used oil analysis, looking at wear metals, and doing engine teardowns.
 
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i know some of this is off topic and some things have changed,it does indicate many automakers
are dealing with similar engine issue's-to me it screams of 3k oci...i am already doing that with all my vehicles anyway🧑‍🔧
I will have to check this out.. Im all for 3k intervals, exception if i start to use amsoil next change i will go a somewhat longer... but actually since ive had my car ive been averaging 1,000 mile interval! LOL.. but this is for break in. But Im pretty sure im up there close to the record for most break in oil changes. :ROFLMAO:
 
Sorry, more AI slop...no one can seem to make their own videos anymore.

That video doesn't provide any new data. It's all just words from an essay someone wrote out and had an AI voice.

It doesn't provide evidence that Toyota's 0W-8 or 0W-16 are inadequate.

It doesn't provide evidence that the 0W-20 that Mazda specs is inadequate.

The way one would do that would be used oil analysis, looking at wear metals, and doing engine teardowns.
oh no.. AI.. ya as soon as I hear an AI voice, I click off ... I only watch the ones that have real people in them.. which is about three lol
 
oh no.. AI.. ya as soon as I hear an AI voice, I click off ... I only watch the ones that have real people in them.. which is about three lol
I jumped the gun a little bit.

It's better than the others I've seen posted here. But it lacks data linking oil viscosity to engine longevity, despite recommending it after scaring the bejeezus out of people in the 20 minutes prior.
 
The gold standard in determining OCI and oil type/brand is to have the used oil analyzed as mentioned by N7turbo.

What I'm going to say is probably going shock many and might bring on some criticism. My previous daily driver was a 2019 Toyota C-HR before my current 2025 CX-5. I did 10k mile OCI on that car. I felt ok with that 10k OCI because of how many miles I put on the car which most of it was long drives. I averaged 30k miles a year and the car had 185k miles on it before being totaled from being rear ended. The engine didn't make any unusual noises from new. Didn't use any oil. And the engine was a pretty basic port injection naturally aspirated. I was looking to get the car to 300k miles. At some point, I was thinking of pulling the valve cover to inspect the top end of the motor.

With my CX-5, I'm not going to be pushing 10k OCIs. The amount of driving I've been doing lately has decreased some. So I'll see how fast I get to 5k miles before determining if I'll stick to 5k OCIs or the factory recommended 7.5k.

ETA: I used Mobil 1 0W-20 exclusively throughout the life of the car.
 
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I jumped the gun a little bit.

It's better than the others I've seen posted here. But it lacks data linking oil viscosity to engine longevity, despite recommending it after scaring the bejeezus out of people in the 20 minutes prior.
I did too and gave it a chance as well.. not bad.. i do wish they would use real voices though
 
The gold standard in determining OCI and oil type/brand is to have the used oil analyzed as mentioned by N7turbo.

What I'm going to say is probably going shock many and might bring on some criticism. My previous daily driver was a 2019 Toyota C-HR before my current 2025 CX-5. I did 10k mile OCI on that car. I felt ok with that 10k OCI because of how many miles I put on the car which most of it was long drives. I averaged 30k miles a year and the car had 185k miles on it before being totaled from being rear ended. The engine didn't make any unusual noises from new. Didn't use any oil. And the engine was a pretty basic port injection naturally aspirated. I was looking to get the car to 300k miles. At some point, I was thinking of pulling the valve cover to inspect the top end of the motor.

With my CX-5, I'm not going to be pushing 10k OCIs. The amount of driving I've been doing lately has decreased some. So I'll see how fast I get to 5k miles before determining if I'll stick to 5k OCIs or the factory recommended 7.5k.

ETA: I used Mobil 1 0W-20 exclusively throughout the life of the car.
that makes sense,it seems like long drives keep the engine better than cold starts only to drive a few miles to work and back -i did watch the oil geek who explained it well but to be honest some of it goes over my head,good oil change interval is in my control so i do that-looking foward to what the oem's come with in the next few years now that some changes have been made
 
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