Anyone use bottle jacks on the CX-5?
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Chris_Top_Her
Contributor
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I have one. I most of the bottlejacks are adjustable by unscrewing/screwing the head. Between that and the pumping you shouldn't have any issues. I think mine is a 13", but i have the head extended to like 1" under the pinch.
Hey Chris -
You're thinking this will work no problem?
http://m.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-heavy-duty-bottle-jack-69476.html
You're thinking this will work no problem?
http://m.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-heavy-duty-bottle-jack-69476.html
I'm not Chris.. but the minimum height of that jack is 8-1/4 in.
The CX-5 is listed as 8.5in of ground clearance, but placing that jack under there might be a little problematic.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
^^^ What MikeM. said. For tire rotation using a floor jack or two are a lot safer and easier as bottle jack is simply just not as stable as floor jack.
Chris_Top_Her
Contributor
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Firstly, Yes that is basically the bottle jack I have from HF except it's not as high capacity. Second, there is nothing wrong with using a bottle jack (it definitely beats a scissor jack on a concrete pad, plenty of cases of the jack tipping over + quicker to pump); however I would also agree a floor jack is the way to go. I bought an aluminum floor jack from HF a month or so ago. I found if you use the small floor jacks they barely have enough reach to lift the car enough for a tire change, so if you only wanted to spend about $30, I would go with the bottle jack of that price over the floor jack of the same size, which won't give you the clearance you want. If you don't mind spending ~$100 you can get the big floor jack which is way better. It's actually on sale for $90 right now.
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-Ton-Compact-Aluminum-Racing-Floor-Jack-with-Rapid-Pump-60569.html
If it looks like this (Walmart/autozone wherever) and is approx. $30, avoid it. The max height is barely sufficient for our car. " 13" lift"
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-Ton-Compact-Aluminum-Racing-Floor-Jack-with-Rapid-Pump-60569.html
If it looks like this (Walmart/autozone wherever) and is approx. $30, avoid it. The max height is barely sufficient for our car. " 13" lift"
Unless the CX-5 is the heaviest thing you're ever going to lift I would go to this (and even then this is a good idea):
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-ton-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapidpump-62309.html
It will take slightly more floor space but has more lift. These are cheap jacks (other than the fact that they are more expensive aluminum vs. steel) and using them near their rated capacity is not as good as having a bit left over. I lift my AWD CX-5 from the rear differential so both back wheels are lifted simultaneously. I estimate I'm over a ton at that point. Also, these are designed to lift fast and the higher capacity jacks will require a little less "oomph" and should last longer.
Tip: for long life never crank hard on the shut-off valve. Just turn it hard enough to keep it from creeping.
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-ton-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapidpump-62309.html
It will take slightly more floor space but has more lift. These are cheap jacks (other than the fact that they are more expensive aluminum vs. steel) and using them near their rated capacity is not as good as having a bit left over. I lift my AWD CX-5 from the rear differential so both back wheels are lifted simultaneously. I estimate I'm over a ton at that point. Also, these are designed to lift fast and the higher capacity jacks will require a little less "oomph" and should last longer.
Tip: for long life never crank hard on the shut-off valve. Just turn it hard enough to keep it from creeping.
You guys are great #1 !
I actually have that 1.5 ton aluminum racing jack from Harbor Freight. I've had it for a year or so. I wish I would have bought the next size up - I really do.
I also have the aluminum jack stands from Harbor. I just put up a post asking where the best jack points are for using the 1.5 ton jack so I can get it high enough to use jack stands on the pinch bolts. I bought the harbor freight jack stand covers which actually have a 3/4" cut in them which seem to fit up and inside perfectly into the lip where you guys cut slits into hockey pucks.
So if you wouldn't mind taking a peak at the jacking point thread and let me know where you think the best spot to lift using the 1.5 ton jack which I believe only max jacks a touch above 14".
At that point I can slide under the jack stands.
Thanks
I actually have that 1.5 ton aluminum racing jack from Harbor Freight. I've had it for a year or so. I wish I would have bought the next size up - I really do.
I also have the aluminum jack stands from Harbor. I just put up a post asking where the best jack points are for using the 1.5 ton jack so I can get it high enough to use jack stands on the pinch bolts. I bought the harbor freight jack stand covers which actually have a 3/4" cut in them which seem to fit up and inside perfectly into the lip where you guys cut slits into hockey pucks.
So if you wouldn't mind taking a peak at the jacking point thread and let me know where you think the best spot to lift using the 1.5 ton jack which I believe only max jacks a touch above 14".
At that point I can slide under the jack stands.
Thanks
mazdadude
ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOM
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- '16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
Why not just use the jack in the trunk? I like the way it saddles the pinch weld.
I have found on previous mazdas, that by exercising the mazda jack a few times, and applying some grease on the threads of the jack does wonders for ease of use.
If you are inventive you can use a power drill to operate the crank instead of your arm.
I would never recommend working on it unless supported by stands. I have seen bottle jacks tip, scissor jacks tip, and cheap floor jacks tip.
The best solution I feel, is a nice wide footprint floor jack, and a Pinch weld adaptor for the jack.
I have found on previous mazdas, that by exercising the mazda jack a few times, and applying some grease on the threads of the jack does wonders for ease of use.
If you are inventive you can use a power drill to operate the crank instead of your arm.
I would never recommend working on it unless supported by stands. I have seen bottle jacks tip, scissor jacks tip, and cheap floor jacks tip.
The best solution I feel, is a nice wide footprint floor jack, and a Pinch weld adaptor for the jack.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
I use a piece of 2X4 instead. It also adds some height for floor jack.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
It's a good idea a jack with a build-in stand. The only problem is you need two... (whistle)I use a floor jack, but I could see the merits of this, particularly if the vehicle has limited jacking points. It is sometimes difficult to find both a jacking point for a floor jack and a place to set the stand.
I use a floor jack, but I could see the merits of this, particularly if the vehicle has limited jacking points. It is sometimes difficult to find both a jacking point for a floor jack and a place to set the stand.
Those are cool but I think these are more practical.
http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Link provided is not working...
Right, but I could buy four ($38 each) and have the capability of lifting all corners for a lot less than my floor jack and four stands. Not to mention they could be stored on a sturdy shelf. My floor jack is an unwieldy 100+ pound Arcan XL.
