any one have or installed an oem remote start?
- Thread starter tsunami
- Start date
I don't know if I can help you much, but that OEM starter might be for just the automatic transmission models even though it doesn't explicitly tell you - the aftermarket ones require special steps to be taken when installed in a manual tx.
To rule out the clutch switch, I'd get in the car and push in the clutch and then try it. If it works, then you'll have to bypass the clutch safety switch.
Since it is made for the 3, they must have taken the key transponder into account, like you said in your other thread. You can verify that it isn't the problem by simply inserting the key in the ignition (but don't turn it). If it works, then you know something is amiss with the transponder bypass somehow.
The fact that the thing acts like it wants to start it, but doesn't crank the engine makes me think it's the clutch switch. It makes sense that it just stops after because it tries to start, doesn't see an engine rpm signal, so it stops. It has no way of knowing if the engine is cranking, so it assumes it is and is just waiting for an rpm signal.
Did you have to add a hood switch? Most AM starters require an open in the hood switch circuit to work, but it might be backwards for the OEM starter and need a closed hood switch circuit - or it might need a 12v signal from the switch.
So, if you've hooked everything up right and checked the items above and it still won't work, there might be some other lockout mechanism added for manual txs to prevent people from doing what you are intending.
If it were me, I'd be trying to inject power into the ignition1 (computer and fuel pump) wire(s) and the starter wire, while having the transponder bypass engaged, while the hood switch is open (break the circuit), and clutch switch bypassed. These are the only steps you really need to get it to work. Door locks are unessential. The blower motor wire(s) will obviously need to be powered to make the heat work, but that is not essential either to have it start.
To rule out the clutch switch, I'd get in the car and push in the clutch and then try it. If it works, then you'll have to bypass the clutch safety switch.
Since it is made for the 3, they must have taken the key transponder into account, like you said in your other thread. You can verify that it isn't the problem by simply inserting the key in the ignition (but don't turn it). If it works, then you know something is amiss with the transponder bypass somehow.
The fact that the thing acts like it wants to start it, but doesn't crank the engine makes me think it's the clutch switch. It makes sense that it just stops after because it tries to start, doesn't see an engine rpm signal, so it stops. It has no way of knowing if the engine is cranking, so it assumes it is and is just waiting for an rpm signal.
Did you have to add a hood switch? Most AM starters require an open in the hood switch circuit to work, but it might be backwards for the OEM starter and need a closed hood switch circuit - or it might need a 12v signal from the switch.
So, if you've hooked everything up right and checked the items above and it still won't work, there might be some other lockout mechanism added for manual txs to prevent people from doing what you are intending.
If it were me, I'd be trying to inject power into the ignition1 (computer and fuel pump) wire(s) and the starter wire, while having the transponder bypass engaged, while the hood switch is open (break the circuit), and clutch switch bypassed. These are the only steps you really need to get it to work. Door locks are unessential. The blower motor wire(s) will obviously need to be powered to make the heat work, but that is not essential either to have it start.
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yeah it came with a hood swithc, and that is working correctly just as the manual says it should. i didn't even think of holding the clutch in while i tried it... could very well be the problem... if it is it means i need to bypass that circiut some how... before i get into that i need to go check that out first...
If that turns out to be the problem, let me know and I can maybe help you out with that. It will just be a matter of using a relay (normal automotive 12v SPST relay) to bridge the clutch switch wires, but only when the remote starter is engaged. That would require some type of extra output wire that is on when you start it with the remote, but ONLY on when you start it with the remote, otherwise the clutch safety switch could conceivably be bypassed even when not remotely starting it.
One of the clutch wires would be hooked to pin 87, and the other clutch wire hooked to pin 30 of the relay. It would then just be a matter of powering the 85 and 86 coil pins of the relay.
One of the clutch wires would be hooked to pin 87, and the other clutch wire hooked to pin 30 of the relay. It would then just be a matter of powering the 85 and 86 coil pins of the relay.
nope wasn't the clutch, i tried every concievable combination of clutch in gear/not in gear/ with ebrake/with out ebrake... though the alram works just fine, i started to roll when i took the ebrake off and the alarm went off. this is a great product, all inclusive alarm and remote start and it was really easy to put in.... going to get the reciept and take it in to the dealership so they can service it.... i am out of ideas, and tired of criving my car around with out any shrouding in place so it looks like i stole it...
nope this b**** is keepin me in the poor house every month... i am over paying my payment as much as i can while i am trying to save money (for a house) so i can get this big black b**** paid off....
quick update, i bought this from ken (protege garage) and he is sending me a reciept so i can take it in to a dealer and get this resolved... kudos on his cust serv for sure!!
quick update, i bought this from ken (protege garage) and he is sending me a reciept so i can take it in to a dealer and get this resolved... kudos on his cust serv for sure!!
BrianG said:
Did you try this yet? It could still be the transponder lockout. While you're at it, manually push in the clutch just in case it is a combination of clutch and transponder lockouts.
The ebrake or gear position shouldn't have anything to do with the starter, especially if the starter was made for an auto TX. However, when you install an AM starter, you do have to hook up the ebrake and some people even add a neutral safety switch. Even then, it takes a special procedure to shut the car off for the remote start to work next time you want to remotely start the car.
In aftermarket units, you drive up to your parking spot, stop the car (not the engine), engage the ebrake, put the car in neutral, and release the brake. Then you activate the remote start while the engine is still running. Then you can pull the key out of the ignition, but the engine will still run. Once you open the door, exit, and close the door, you press the remote start button again, which shuts the car off. This tells the remote start brain that the car must be safe to remotely start next time since the car was running with you out of it. This process may be slightly different depending on the unit installed, but the idea is the same; safety. Yeah, you can defeat some of these failsafes, but they are there for safety. The lack of this type of feature (and associated installation guide/instructions) is why I don't think that OEM starter was designed for a manual TX.
yeah i tried that with the key, forgot to mention it... there was no change in the out come... wiating for a fax for my reciept..... there were no intructions like that in the manual, after the install was complete it read "put neg terminal back on with key in run posn. close hood, turn key off, then start car one time or remote starter will not work. then to program remotes you need to put one key in wait till theft light goes off then with in 5 seconds insert second key and wiat for the theft light to turn off again. then lock doors with remote and within 5 seconds hit the start button."
Yeah, sometimes the aftermarket stuff is easier. There are more wires to be sure, but most are for other options you won't need and can be removed from the harness altogether. The only downside is the possibility of a voided warranty, but as long as everything is done right, there should be no problem.
Remote starters in general can be a bit daunting to someone who hasn't installed one before; it's only a few more wires than an alarm install. It really isn't that bad once you break the steps down. Find your wire locations (test each one - you can't always trust wiring diagrams), plan ahead so you know what wires go where, and then twist or braid those wires together for a cleaner, more manageable install. Solder the wires and tape them well. A Mazda tech will probably be more apt to blame the remote starter for any problem if the wiring is a rat's nest.
Remote starters in general can be a bit daunting to someone who hasn't installed one before; it's only a few more wires than an alarm install. It really isn't that bad once you break the steps down. Find your wire locations (test each one - you can't always trust wiring diagrams), plan ahead so you know what wires go where, and then twist or braid those wires together for a cleaner, more manageable install. Solder the wires and tape them well. A Mazda tech will probably be more apt to blame the remote starter for any problem if the wiring is a rat's nest.
the wiring was really easy guys, i only had to tap into 7 wires, one wire for the brake module, and then the other 6 were at the SJB under the glove box, and all of those were for lock/unlock/park lights/horn... the rest of the wire connections were just molex type plugs... and there were only two of those...
alright so after digging into the issue it seems like it isn't for a standard... i swear i read or was told it was... but i can't find any info saying what i thought i heard... found on the mazdastuff.com site that it is for an automatic only, though the instruction manual says 2004 and ^ any model mazda3.... you would think that meant manual or automatic tranny?? so i have the wiring diagram is there a way i can make this work or am i ****** and better off selling it to some one with an automatic or just keeping it as an alarm?
Without being there and looking at the starter diagram along with the car wiring, it'll be really hard to say. Aftermarket systems usually have all the outputs you need to make it work in pretty much any vehicle. Since the OEM one is only for autos, it may have something in it to prevent doing what you're doing.
However, the only thing I can think of that would be different from an auto and a stick is the clutch pedal. You said you tried to bypass that. There might be something in the OEM starter that is looking for a "park" condition, and you don't have it. That's the disadvantage with the OEM one - there is a nice neat harness that you have no idea what wires do what.
Personally, I'd sell the OEM one and get an aftermarket starter if you are bound and determined to have a starter. Otherwise, stick with just an alarm. BTW: An alarm installs in the 3 (stick or auto) without any problems whatsoever.
However, the only thing I can think of that would be different from an auto and a stick is the clutch pedal. You said you tried to bypass that. There might be something in the OEM starter that is looking for a "park" condition, and you don't have it. That's the disadvantage with the OEM one - there is a nice neat harness that you have no idea what wires do what.
Personally, I'd sell the OEM one and get an aftermarket starter if you are bound and determined to have a starter. Otherwise, stick with just an alarm. BTW: An alarm installs in the 3 (stick or auto) without any problems whatsoever.
yeah this starter has a nice alarm setup with it, 2 stage shock sensor with 64 setting levels, and the remote car find is nice, and the added range isn't bad either (not that it was bad to begin with) but an alarm is close to the same amt of money (get what you pay for) the only thing this doesn't have is the break sensors for the windows but thats what the shock sensor is for, you are supposed to hit the window as a test to set it to the level you want... may just sell it i dunno... i do know this sucks balls!!!
nobodyzromeo
Member
I've been through this myself, installing a remote starter into my manual ford ranger that was intended for an automatic vehicle. I got it free so figured I'd just deal with the annoyances.
BrianG is right, you'll need to set up a by-pass for the clutch switch. I can't say for sure but the switch is probably right down by the pedal and there will be two wires that need to be jumpered together. This causes a bit of a safety issue because now your car can start in gear either manually or remotely. I've always parked my truck in neutral so this isn't a problem for me but I have to remember to use the valet switch any time someone else might be driving it.
I don't know how handy you are with electrical projects but a better solution would be to bring those same 2 wires to a relay that jumpers them together only when the remote starter is activated (still not entirely safe because if you left the vehicle in gear it'll lurch when trying to start it remotely but eliminates the problem for manual starts). If you need help with this just let me know.
The other thing BrianG is probably right about is that your remote starter module is looking for a Park input which will either be positive or negative and easily mimmicked if you can find out which wire it is and the nature of the input (+/-).
Surely someone here can supply you with a pin-out description for your factory remote starter unit(so you'll know for sure if it requires a park input) and also a schematic diagram of the start circuit (so you'll know which 2 wires to jumper at the clutch pedal). Maybe start a new thread asking for that info.
I would suggest going after the park input question first, once it's resolved you can try starting your car remotely while pressing the clutch pedal yourself - and do the clutch switch jumpering after your sure that's the last problem on your list.
....And to make a long story even longer, until you're sure there is no issue with the ignition key inter-lock, do all your remote start tests with a key in the ignition.
It sounds like you've done a good job so far - just a couple issues to resolve, don't give up now!
BrianG is right, you'll need to set up a by-pass for the clutch switch. I can't say for sure but the switch is probably right down by the pedal and there will be two wires that need to be jumpered together. This causes a bit of a safety issue because now your car can start in gear either manually or remotely. I've always parked my truck in neutral so this isn't a problem for me but I have to remember to use the valet switch any time someone else might be driving it.
I don't know how handy you are with electrical projects but a better solution would be to bring those same 2 wires to a relay that jumpers them together only when the remote starter is activated (still not entirely safe because if you left the vehicle in gear it'll lurch when trying to start it remotely but eliminates the problem for manual starts). If you need help with this just let me know.
The other thing BrianG is probably right about is that your remote starter module is looking for a Park input which will either be positive or negative and easily mimmicked if you can find out which wire it is and the nature of the input (+/-).
Surely someone here can supply you with a pin-out description for your factory remote starter unit(so you'll know for sure if it requires a park input) and also a schematic diagram of the start circuit (so you'll know which 2 wires to jumper at the clutch pedal). Maybe start a new thread asking for that info.
I would suggest going after the park input question first, once it's resolved you can try starting your car remotely while pressing the clutch pedal yourself - and do the clutch switch jumpering after your sure that's the last problem on your list.
....And to make a long story even longer, until you're sure there is no issue with the ignition key inter-lock, do all your remote start tests with a key in the ignition.
It sounds like you've done a good job so far - just a couple issues to resolve, don't give up now!
nobodyzromeo
Member
Doing a bit of looking around I came across this thread:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11362&page=1&pp=15&highlight=remote+starter
I realize it's a different model but maybe there is something similar on the 3 that could be used for the park input.......if it turns our a park input is needed.
This input (assuming it exists) along with the relay clutch by-pass it would make for a very safe installation.
If you get your hands on a wiring schematic for the Mazda 3 can you send me a copy please? I'm hoping to get a remote starter for my girlfriend for christmas and could use all the information I can get. Thanks.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11362&page=1&pp=15&highlight=remote+starter
I realize it's a different model but maybe there is something similar on the 3 that could be used for the park input.......if it turns our a park input is needed.
This input (assuming it exists) along with the relay clutch by-pass it would make for a very safe installation.
If you get your hands on a wiring schematic for the Mazda 3 can you send me a copy please? I'm hoping to get a remote starter for my girlfriend for christmas and could use all the information I can get. Thanks.
