Amsoil Users?
- Thread starter ARunto
- Start date
I used Amsoil in my Vibe GT, but will not in the Mazda since they seem to be picky about warranties. Amsoil does not have all of the SAE approval seals that Mazda requires. They do make a series of oils that is completely approved, but it's just not the same. Sorry, I can't remember the exact seal, but if you read the MSP manual, it states what the oil has to be for our cars.
Professor MSP
Member
- :
- 2003 Black Mica Mazdaspeed Protege
Alan:
I changed both the oil and transmission fluid over to Amsoil at the 3000 mile mark. I had a Mazda technician do the work. The part numbers and the oil weights are as follows:
FP-Number 9701-20-1101 Amsoil 10W-30 (motor oil),
FP-Number 9701-20-2601 Amsoil 75W-90 (transmission fluid).
I spoke to the Mazdaspeed technician about the oil change interval when using Amsoil, and he said he would go 5000 miles between oil changes.
After a few weeks, I noticed a nontrivial improvement in the smoothness of the shifting, which I attribute to the Amsoil transmission fluid.
I changed both the oil and transmission fluid over to Amsoil at the 3000 mile mark. I had a Mazda technician do the work. The part numbers and the oil weights are as follows:
FP-Number 9701-20-1101 Amsoil 10W-30 (motor oil),
FP-Number 9701-20-2601 Amsoil 75W-90 (transmission fluid).
I spoke to the Mazdaspeed technician about the oil change interval when using Amsoil, and he said he would go 5000 miles between oil changes.
After a few weeks, I noticed a nontrivial improvement in the smoothness of the shifting, which I attribute to the Amsoil transmission fluid.
0
02.5 P5
Amsoil all the way...
BTW, Professor MSP, does the amsoil have a limited slip additive for the tranny, or do we even need. i have been wanting to switch mine, just haven't done it yet
BTW, Professor MSP, does the amsoil have a limited slip additive for the tranny, or do we even need. i have been wanting to switch mine, just haven't done it yet
0
02.5 P5
it is worth the money because you don't change your oil as often. i have been using amsoil in many vehicles that i have owned, change oil every 25,000 miles, filter every 12,500 miles, no problems yet...
0
02.5 P5
i am doing 25,000 with the turbo formula, change the filter @ 12,500miles... if you are worried about warranty, then i would not go this route, because the dealership will void your warranty. but i am fixing to replace my motor anyways, so i am not worried about warranty work...
Professor MSP
Member
- :
- 2003 Black Mica Mazdaspeed Protege
02.5 P5:
Here's what I culled from the Amsoil web site:
AMSOIL 75W-90, 80W-90 AND 85W-140 Gear Lubes exceed the lubrication and performance requirements for gear boxes where API MT-1, GL-4 or GL-5 lubricants are specified. AMSOIL Synthetic Gear Lubes provide limited slip performance. Although generally not necessary, manufacturers' limited slip additives may be used in conjunction with AMSOIL Synthetic Gear Lube.
Based on my past 1100 miles, I can recommend Amsoil. I hope this helps.
Here's what I culled from the Amsoil web site:
AMSOIL 75W-90, 80W-90 AND 85W-140 Gear Lubes exceed the lubrication and performance requirements for gear boxes where API MT-1, GL-4 or GL-5 lubricants are specified. AMSOIL Synthetic Gear Lubes provide limited slip performance. Although generally not necessary, manufacturers' limited slip additives may be used in conjunction with AMSOIL Synthetic Gear Lube.
Based on my past 1100 miles, I can recommend Amsoil. I hope this helps.
I use the Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 and also use there Synthetic ATF. It is good stuff and really does not cost that much due you only need around 3 quarts and keep another to top off if needed. THe Series 2000 0w-30 is good for 35,000 or a year. You do have to change the oil filter every 12,000 miles or 6 months what ever comes first.
ARunto said:
engine warranty concerns
Hello all:
Don't want to start throwing commercial posts in where they aren't wanted but I am an Amsoil dealer and would respond to the statement that Mazda, or any manufacturer, would or could void your warranty for using Amsoil.
If you have an engine problem and you have not followed the oil change interval recommended, I agree that Mazda's, in this case, reaction would be to say that that is the cause of the malfunction. The solution to this is simply to save the oil. It's easily tested by any independent lab. Usually any heavy equipement dealer (like Cat) will have a lab or be able to connect you with one. Either the oil meets the viscosity and chemical standards specified and wasn't the cause or it doesn't meet the standards. In the unlikely event ( it's never happened ) that the oil didn't meet the standard Amsoil's warranty would pay for your repair. The catch though is to make sure that you keep the oil! If you don't have the oil you will have no proof that it wasn't the cause of the problem and Mazda, in this case, is off the hook.
flyguy
Hello all:
Don't want to start throwing commercial posts in where they aren't wanted but I am an Amsoil dealer and would respond to the statement that Mazda, or any manufacturer, would or could void your warranty for using Amsoil.
If you have an engine problem and you have not followed the oil change interval recommended, I agree that Mazda's, in this case, reaction would be to say that that is the cause of the malfunction. The solution to this is simply to save the oil. It's easily tested by any independent lab. Usually any heavy equipement dealer (like Cat) will have a lab or be able to connect you with one. Either the oil meets the viscosity and chemical standards specified and wasn't the cause or it doesn't meet the standards. In the unlikely event ( it's never happened ) that the oil didn't meet the standard Amsoil's warranty would pay for your repair. The catch though is to make sure that you keep the oil! If you don't have the oil you will have no proof that it wasn't the cause of the problem and Mazda, in this case, is off the hook.
flyguy
02.5 P5 said:
7
70
Interesting...
I might just have to look into this.
I might just have to look into this.
Thanks everyone for the friendly welcome to your forum.
I know it feels odd to extend your oil change interval. The oil companies have done an extraordinary job of reinforcing the "buy-lots-of-oil-and-change-it-often" philosophy. There is simply no temperature, pressure or chemical process in your engine that will affect Amsoil within the change interval for that application. Generally for non-turbo engines the change interval is 25,000 miles or one year and for turbocharged 3 times the engine manufacturers recommendation or six months. These are not across-the-board limits and may vary depending on which viscosity is selected. If anyone wants to know more about what viscosity would be best and the justification for selecting it I'd be happy to help.
Now back to the extended drain interval...Amsoil has been doing this for a long time ( since 1972 ) and from the first quart of oil sold the change interval has been 25,000 miles. I personally have sold the oil to hundreds of people and have never seen the oil break down.
There is a way to find out for yourself but initially it will cost, both in time and hassle. I've done this many times. Change to Amsoil and run the vehicle to something like 10,000 miles and get a lab analysis done. Typically what you get is a report showing viscosity in range, acidity slightly up from new oil and nitrates slightly up from new oil. The acidity and nitrates are combustion byproducts. Amsoil starts with a higher TBN, which is resistance to acidity, than other oils and therefore even though the acidity is up from new it's still quite acceptable for continued use. The lab will also test for water/coolant contamination, fuel contamination and do a spectrographic analysis for wear metals. Water/coolant contamination would likely mean a gasket leak. Fuel contamination would likely indicate a bad injector. The spectrographic analysis usually causes the most interest because it can be used to show which metal is wearing and ending up in the oil but it is really only usefull for trend analysis, which means doing the test on a regular basis and watching for a particular metal to spike.
So that's it. You could switch to Amsoil, pay the 20 bucks and get your own proof or you could go by their reputation and commitment to quality. If you wanted to do this you could track down an Amsoil dealer ( I could help ) who has the vaccum pump needed to pull the sample - not all dealers do this because it's a hassle and the answer is always the same - or you could look in the yellow pages and find a lab to pull a sample. The lab will need a sample of the new oil to be able to compare the pulled sample against. The good thing about doing a test like this is that things usually stay consistent. If an oil behaves in a certain engine in a certain way you could expect the same thing next year and the year after without much change.
Flyguy
I know it feels odd to extend your oil change interval. The oil companies have done an extraordinary job of reinforcing the "buy-lots-of-oil-and-change-it-often" philosophy. There is simply no temperature, pressure or chemical process in your engine that will affect Amsoil within the change interval for that application. Generally for non-turbo engines the change interval is 25,000 miles or one year and for turbocharged 3 times the engine manufacturers recommendation or six months. These are not across-the-board limits and may vary depending on which viscosity is selected. If anyone wants to know more about what viscosity would be best and the justification for selecting it I'd be happy to help.
Now back to the extended drain interval...Amsoil has been doing this for a long time ( since 1972 ) and from the first quart of oil sold the change interval has been 25,000 miles. I personally have sold the oil to hundreds of people and have never seen the oil break down.
There is a way to find out for yourself but initially it will cost, both in time and hassle. I've done this many times. Change to Amsoil and run the vehicle to something like 10,000 miles and get a lab analysis done. Typically what you get is a report showing viscosity in range, acidity slightly up from new oil and nitrates slightly up from new oil. The acidity and nitrates are combustion byproducts. Amsoil starts with a higher TBN, which is resistance to acidity, than other oils and therefore even though the acidity is up from new it's still quite acceptable for continued use. The lab will also test for water/coolant contamination, fuel contamination and do a spectrographic analysis for wear metals. Water/coolant contamination would likely mean a gasket leak. Fuel contamination would likely indicate a bad injector. The spectrographic analysis usually causes the most interest because it can be used to show which metal is wearing and ending up in the oil but it is really only usefull for trend analysis, which means doing the test on a regular basis and watching for a particular metal to spike.
So that's it. You could switch to Amsoil, pay the 20 bucks and get your own proof or you could go by their reputation and commitment to quality. If you wanted to do this you could track down an Amsoil dealer ( I could help ) who has the vaccum pump needed to pull the sample - not all dealers do this because it's a hassle and the answer is always the same - or you could look in the yellow pages and find a lab to pull a sample. The lab will need a sample of the new oil to be able to compare the pulled sample against. The good thing about doing a test like this is that things usually stay consistent. If an oil behaves in a certain engine in a certain way you could expect the same thing next year and the year after without much change.
Flyguy
shinzen said:
7
70
What do you recommend for an MP3 with a turbo then?
And tranny fluid?
And tranny fluid?
