AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

[Jaysanooch]

with stock turbo? hmm, I heard that the 8.5:1 compression is pretty slow outta boost, and I would think with stock turbo that it would be even slower than 9:1, but I don't know

I edited my post...thanks for reminding me, my turbo has been rebuilt and modified with t28 wheel. It pulls a little harder and maybe doesn't die out as fast as before but nothing crazy. I think it's begging for more boost to be honest. Too lazy to re-tune on 440's.

but quick question, you said you run agressive afrs as 12.5 until mid/high rpm, I questioned myself a bunch when adjusting my maps on this, I have no problem keeping my afrs pretty lean for the first few psi of boost while it switches loop but right now my boost builds really fast, so it goes from 3psi to 9psi within a few hundred rpm, but the afrs sometimes still run around high 11-low 12.. what do you guys think about the dangers of zoom zoom boom at lower rpm while building boost, I think it does this no matter what stock, so as long as the afrs goes down quickly after boost is built I don't see it as a big problem.. any comments ?

I think your fine and your right...no point worrying from 3-9psi since it happens so fast but maybe richen up the area where it spikes. That's what I figure.

With my style of driving...which is short burst in 2nd and 3rd, I think my tune gives me great throttle response and I love it. I'm hardly ever in the high revs.

 

[SprNater]

he knows I'm just screwing with him... I help whenever I can (ask dub about his FMIC), but loading a new map is one thing I haven't done with the AFC yet... lacking a windows laptop makes it difficult.

(oops)okay sorry my bad...just thought it was really random. But anyway sorry about your grandfather.

 

[Ricktalife]

So a question for everybody regarding Jays base map that I am running. I notice that the idle is a bit uneven at start up until I blip the throttle once or twice. Is there a way to tune that out, or could that be my EGR? Also what would be the method for leaning this map out even further? Do I just start at the beginning and lower the problem area values by .1?

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

I would clean your EGR if you haven't before anyways, but it still happens to me sometimes, if it happens more often a few times after you uploaded a new map, then just let it sit there and correct itself, should re-learn everything, but ya to lean it out, just correct the values that are too rich by .1 , I use the "change by %" box on the top tool bar and change it by -1 or +1, you do that after you selected a general area that you want to change instead of changing every cell individually, just make sure after you change a few things, to load it up, and do a couple of data logs before you do anything else, only change the things that are consistently a problem (to rich or too lean) or you could just end up changing things back and forth or change them too much and cause some problems.. if it's too lean

 

[Ricktalife]

So just to be clear I can have a gap in the values and it's no problem?
For example: at .5 psi I can have it at 9.7 and at 1 psi it can be at 9.1?

I'm just throwing numbers out there I don't really remember what the values are at that spot haha.

 

[Jaysanooch]

So just to be clear I can have a gap in the values and it's no problem?
For example: at .5 psi I can have it at 9.7 and at 1 psi it can be at 9.1?

I'm just throwing numbers out there I don't really remember what the values are at that spot haha.

I haven't tried a gap as drastic as that. You want it to be smooth in general.

You can't really tune your idle. Also, between 0psi and 5psi...happens so fast I wouldn't play with it the way its set. If you do try only leaning it by .1 from 0psi to 5-6psi between 2500 to 3500.

I would take note of what boost your spiking and holding...not so much on your gauge but from what the AFC is seeing. I know that between my boost gauge and the AFC...its off by .5psi.

Anyway...take note of those columns and just play around with those numbers.

 

[Ricktalife]

Cool thanks for the tips. I'll be sure to keep a copy of your base map for when I screw mine up lol. I had a feeling that you wanted to keep it smooth so I was just asking first about the gap. I will just mess around with the 6-7psi ranges mostly for now, but only after datalogging a few pulls.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

oh that also reminds me, I noticed today and a few other times that my boost gauge will read, say today it was 11psi holding but the Greedy ebc was reading a spike and kinda holding around 9.5-10 but even when I didn't go full throttle, the boost gauge would read like 10psi but the ebc would ready between 8-9psi and consistently changing.. I still have to work with my ebc settings so it is more constant and so that it builds boost faster without spiking (I had start boost set pretty low and response sucked so I have to play with it to get it to the point where it is good response but doesn't spike)

and I know that my ebc and what my ssafc is reading are pretty similar so I am guessing that the actual autometer boost gauge is just sensitive to boost and not so much to the small changes in boost while at boost.. if that makes sense.. sorry, I have been working on a paper all day and my brain is dead by now, but basically the boost gauge won't show the small changes in boost once I hit full boost, where as the ebc and ssafc will show actual boost and be more inclined to show a decrease in boost after hitting full boost as well as it's small changes... it all makes sense in my head, kinda haha.. anyways.. just wondering if anyone else has a similar issue, I might double check my vac lines running to them but they should be all set

 

[Ricktalife]

Assuming the vac lines are good, I would trust your Greddy the most since I have the AFC and used to have an Autometer and they are not as reliable as the Greddy as far as readings.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ya that is what I was thinking.. even though the Greddy has the smaller vac line I think (I T off the Greddy and autometer boost gauge from the vac line that comes in through the firewall, but after the T the ebc vac line is a little smaller than the 3/16 one going to the autometer,) but either way it shouldn't change the actual vac/boost readings, I think the ebc is just more accurate, and the ssafc is almost dead on with the ebc when I do the data logging,

 

[Ricktalife]

Oh why don't you hook up the EBC to your vac block?

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

it is, but it is also hooked up to the autometer boost gauge as well, I figured (and I think I got this idea from wagonbacker) that I could just run a vac line from the vac block in through the firewall and from there, put a T in, one going to the autometer boost gauge and the other going to the ebc, that way I don't have to run another line off the vac block and put a hole in the firewall grommet which is already really packed with the normal wires/0gauge amp wires/a few extra accessory wires and the vac lines going through there, and they should still show boost fine

 

[Ricktalife]

Ah okay well if you are concerned about the readings I would try hooking it up without the T for a couple days and see.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ya I might do that, especially since it is controlling the boost, don't want that to be wrong, it will have to wait a little though, I have to much work to do tomorrow before I go back to school and next weekend I'm heading to Maine for a bio trip.. so it will be a little bit but no big deal, most of the time it reads the same boost value.. but sometimes it's just a little off

 

[BadBandar]

This is for Ricktalife. I set it all up for you. If you don't see an improvement with this then im affraid you have an issue somewhere other than the map.

P.s. Always double check the overpressure setting before loading...I set to -0.5

Let me know!

So i was comparing ur tune to the superstockmap. So the lower u go the leaner the system gets? like, 9.7->9.6->9.5. Im thinking i might try ur summer tune. Its pretty straight forward.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

^^ yes the lower in values you go, the leaner it gets... 10 is neutral number so no change.. 10.1 is adding fuel.. 9.9 and so on is taking fuel out of the stock ecu fuel map...

 

[BadBandar]

Hmm. Thats interesting. Im starting to slowly figure out this whole tune business. Ill see how his tune does for me. Im looking to get a more agressive/lean tune. At WOT i want 11.0s. Thanks.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

at WOT you could shoot for 11.5 and be relativly safe, that's what I go for.. but I also make sure I tune when it is in the higher range of temp. that I will be experiencing for a while.. at least most of the time, so like if it is going to be 80-85 most of the summer with a few times getting up to 90-100 or so, I will tune when it is 85, or so.. maybe 90, but doing runs a lot will just kill your IC and you won't get consistent runs and that makes tuning a b****..but ya after a while you'll get it, it's nice to finally get it to work the way you want

 

[Ricktalife]

Bandar I would definitely try out Jays summer map, it is perfectly safe to run I tested it myself with my FMIC. Only downside I've noticed is that the AFR's are a little wacky when you first turn the car on, but 1 or 2 throttle blips will even it out. It seems like a nice base map.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

^^ the next time you reload the map, or anything like that just let the car idle by itself for a little while and once it corrects itself (it should at least) then you won't have to worry about it idling in the future since it should be able to learn it after you reloaded the map.. it just helps sometimes