Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
stock turbo? If so, you would definitely not be maxing the injectors at 8psi.
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AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library
- Thread starter lcruz64
- Start date
SpeedAdiction20
Member
- :
- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
when it switches over to open loop it will go lean no matter what from my experience, I have tried to add a little fuel in the very beginning, but it almost leans it out more for some reason, I have also just let it have cell values of 10 for 1-2psi in the beginning and then started leaning it out slowly at low rpm but really it usually still is kinda lean for a bit, try doing some runs starting at like 3.5k rpm (in 3rd gear is what I always tune at) but see how the afrs are building boost at higher rpms, when I start out at low rpms and it takes a while for the car to build boost since they are low rpms, the afrs will be leaner for a while, even while the car is almost at full boost, but the rpms are still pretty low, but again try to do a few datalogs starting at 3.5-4k rpms and see what happens, if it is still not down to around 12-13 afr after the first couple psi, and 11.5 or so psi shortly after 2psi, then add some fuel, but I wouldn't be adding too much.
like I said before, I have noticed that if I try to add fuel in the very begining of the map, for some crazy reason it will stay lean, or get leaner but it rarely gets much richer, just work on getting the afrs down as quickly as possible after the first couple psi and smoothly, don't have a really high cell value then start taking away a lot of fuel.. it's hard to explain but just keep working at it and testing different things, if it is lean for a few seconds, in the begining of boost I personally just keep going, as long as it does not stay lean, and quickly lowers.. if it doesn't get lower then I would stop and start making the values a little richer.. it all depends.. it's hard to explain but I would work with it a little more and let us know what happens then (don't go blowing up your engine, that's not what I'm talking about I'm just saying try a few different things and just watch the afrs and make sure they come down, it usually depends on where you start to boost as to how the car reacts, low rpms in 3rd+ gears are pretty slow to react from what I have seen.)
like I said before, I have noticed that if I try to add fuel in the very begining of the map, for some crazy reason it will stay lean, or get leaner but it rarely gets much richer, just work on getting the afrs down as quickly as possible after the first couple psi and smoothly, don't have a really high cell value then start taking away a lot of fuel.. it's hard to explain but just keep working at it and testing different things, if it is lean for a few seconds, in the begining of boost I personally just keep going, as long as it does not stay lean, and quickly lowers.. if it doesn't get lower then I would stop and start making the values a little richer.. it all depends.. it's hard to explain but I would work with it a little more and let us know what happens then (don't go blowing up your engine, that's not what I'm talking about I'm just saying try a few different things and just watch the afrs and make sure they come down, it usually depends on where you start to boost as to how the car reacts, low rpms in 3rd+ gears are pretty slow to react from what I have seen.)
yes, stock turbo, I figured asking if I was maxing the injectors was probably a dumb question at that level haha.
SpeedAdiction: thanks for the info, I've tried what I think is what you are talking about, I know I need more practice and familiarity with the ssafc though.
I'm pretty happy with my map at low rpms and part throttle, almost no matter what it seems to lean out around 4000rpm when I really get on it though, is there a ratio that I need to worry about as far as increasing fuel? It seems better to slowly increase fuel, instead of just jumping from 10 to 10.5 I should work my way up right or is that not necessary or is this really one of those theres no consistent answer it depends on your setup things?
I'll try to get a map and or log up soon, I don't have the computer I use to tune at the moment.
SpeedAdiction: thanks for the info, I've tried what I think is what you are talking about, I know I need more practice and familiarity with the ssafc though.
I'm pretty happy with my map at low rpms and part throttle, almost no matter what it seems to lean out around 4000rpm when I really get on it though, is there a ratio that I need to worry about as far as increasing fuel? It seems better to slowly increase fuel, instead of just jumping from 10 to 10.5 I should work my way up right or is that not necessary or is this really one of those theres no consistent answer it depends on your setup things?
I'll try to get a map and or log up soon, I don't have the computer I use to tune at the moment.
SpeedAdiction20
Member
- :
- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
^^ ya, I didn't really do a good job explaining what I am thinking of, mainly because I have 2 weeks of school left and a lot of work to do and things to finish up before then, and to make sure I actually graduate lol
but as far as the fuel, I have noticed that it doesn't really work well to just increase the fuel drastically like you said, going slower works well, and I guess at 4k rpm I'm not sure why it would be so lean, that's usually where it gets rich for most people due to stock ecu being crazy rich around there till 5k about... but then again the last few times I have tuned last summer at the end, I had an exhaust leak, and this spring the 1 time I tuned the afrs were way off of what I have normally been getting and it was lean all around, which is really weird, and I haven't had time to go out and do it again lately.. but ya if you put your maps and graphs up that would help a lot as to what's goin on... I notice that the ssafc/our cars/weather conditions/stock ecu/r4 program, generally like to not be very consistant with tuning and things like that, but you should be able to get a good tune down that can work for the summer weather.. also, how was your afrs on the stock supermap? did you notice that when you tried to add more fuel that it got leaner or didn't really do anything or what.. because sometimes if you keep trying to edit a map and you don't notice the problem getting better, it is almost better to just save that map, and open a new customer with the stock supermap and set it up again and see what happens and if you can make a few small tweaks and get a better result.. I only say this because either the ssafc or the r4 don't respond well to drastic changes.. at least that is the impression I get.. basically it's finicky all of it is.. but anyways I'm gonna go back to working on my 3rd long paper in the last 2 weeks.. lol
but as far as the fuel, I have noticed that it doesn't really work well to just increase the fuel drastically like you said, going slower works well, and I guess at 4k rpm I'm not sure why it would be so lean, that's usually where it gets rich for most people due to stock ecu being crazy rich around there till 5k about... but then again the last few times I have tuned last summer at the end, I had an exhaust leak, and this spring the 1 time I tuned the afrs were way off of what I have normally been getting and it was lean all around, which is really weird, and I haven't had time to go out and do it again lately.. but ya if you put your maps and graphs up that would help a lot as to what's goin on... I notice that the ssafc/our cars/weather conditions/stock ecu/r4 program, generally like to not be very consistant with tuning and things like that, but you should be able to get a good tune down that can work for the summer weather.. also, how was your afrs on the stock supermap? did you notice that when you tried to add more fuel that it got leaner or didn't really do anything or what.. because sometimes if you keep trying to edit a map and you don't notice the problem getting better, it is almost better to just save that map, and open a new customer with the stock supermap and set it up again and see what happens and if you can make a few small tweaks and get a better result.. I only say this because either the ssafc or the r4 don't respond well to drastic changes.. at least that is the impression I get.. basically it's finicky all of it is.. but anyways I'm gonna go back to working on my 3rd long paper in the last 2 weeks.. lol
Laser Blue
Member
- :
- '03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege / Laser Blue Mica
Because what you're describing is so opposite what most people run into when tuning, I've gotta ask this:
You do understand that the lower AFR number is RICHER and the higher AFR number is leaner, right? In other words, if your readings go from 12 or 13 at 2500 rpms to 10 at 4000 rpms (which is usually about what happens) then your car is running much richer at 4000 rpms than it is at 2500 rpms. You understand that, right?
You do understand that the lower AFR number is RICHER and the higher AFR number is leaner, right? In other words, if your readings go from 12 or 13 at 2500 rpms to 10 at 4000 rpms (which is usually about what happens) then your car is running much richer at 4000 rpms than it is at 2500 rpms. You understand that, right?
yes, stock turbo, I figured asking if I was maxing the injectors was probably a dumb question at that level haha.
SpeedAdiction: thanks for the info, I've tried what I think is what you are talking about, I know I need more practice and familiarity with the ssafc though.
I'm pretty happy with my map at low rpms and part throttle, almost no matter what it seems to lean out around 4000rpm when I really get on it though, is there a ratio that I need to worry about as far as increasing fuel? It seems better to slowly increase fuel, instead of just jumping from 10 to 10.5 I should work my way up right or is that not necessary or is this really one of those theres no consistent answer it depends on your setup things?
I'll try to get a map and or log up soon, I don't have the computer I use to tune at the moment.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
^^Also, he is not trying to insult your intelligence but it is a very catastrophic mistake haha.
^^Also, he is not trying to insult your intelligence but it is a very catastrophic mistake haha.
yea, I got it, you guys seems to be a good crowd haha. I guess I wasn't clear, I was referring to the numbers in the ssafc map, not AF ratio.
Laser Blue
Member
- :
- '03.5 Mazdaspeed Protege / Laser Blue Mica
yea, I got it, you guys seems to be a good crowd haha. I guess I wasn't clear, I was referring to the numbers in the ssafc map, not AF ratio.
K... good. Cuz if you get AFRs backwards when tuning, s*** goes BoomBoom; not ZoomZoom!
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Yes. Refer to my sig lol.
- :
- MSP 1145
anyone have a decent map for a 28rs w/ walbro, 440s, TBE, FMIC,...?
hit me up please
hit me up please
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
anyone have a decent map for a 28rs w/ walbro, 440s, TBE, FMIC,...?
hit me up please
I put the links to all the maps on the first post
SpeedAdiction20
Member
- :
- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
^^ ya ditto, those are all the maps here....
- :
- MSP 1145
I put the links to all the maps on the first post
i saw. but i didn't see one that had that kinda stuff. i found one w/ 440s and a walbro.. but it didn't specify 28rs
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
fuel pump shouldn't really matter, theres either enough flow to keep up with the injectors or not. even if you got a tune for those mods, you want to retune it, so take whatever is closest and start working it over for better trims.
SpeedAdiction20
Member
- :
- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
ya and even the people that made these maps almost always end up retuning or pretty much tweaking it every year I would think, I personally do anyways, usually because I have added more mods at the time.. but it's always going to be different no matter what
I just finished reading through most of this thread again and I'm confused and enlightened haha.
I pulled my ssafc, cleaned all the connections/wires up and soldered everything since thats one of the pieces of advice I saw multiple times.
This switching over/over pressure thing is still an issue. Sometimes it seems like it happens so smoothly and other times it seems not to happen at all. When it seems to not switch over or get hung up my afrs go all the way lean and I have to let off the gas, this seems opposite from what other people are experiencing? If I go half throttle it is much more likely to stay in acceptable afr range. I know this just came up a couple pages back and much earlier in the thread but unless I missed it there wasn't much conclusive info.
Another thing I think I need to figure out is how to get a smooth data log on a third gear pull. Whats the best way you guys have found to get consistent results? What speed/rpm do you start at?
Oh, and I over-wrote my best map so far FFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
I pulled my ssafc, cleaned all the connections/wires up and soldered everything since thats one of the pieces of advice I saw multiple times.
This switching over/over pressure thing is still an issue. Sometimes it seems like it happens so smoothly and other times it seems not to happen at all. When it seems to not switch over or get hung up my afrs go all the way lean and I have to let off the gas, this seems opposite from what other people are experiencing? If I go half throttle it is much more likely to stay in acceptable afr range. I know this just came up a couple pages back and much earlier in the thread but unless I missed it there wasn't much conclusive info.
Another thing I think I need to figure out is how to get a smooth data log on a third gear pull. Whats the best way you guys have found to get consistent results? What speed/rpm do you start at?
Oh, and I over-wrote my best map so far FFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
SpeedAdiction20
Member
- :
- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
hmm, that sucks, I usually make a few different copies of each map, but ya for data logging I start around.. 2k-2.5k, but that usually doesn't make the best datalogging, or at least it's fine but it's a little slow bluilding boost, I just do that to get all the ranges in there, but once I do that, I usually make a couple runs starting at at 3k, and sometimes 3.5k to see how it really builds boost and switches from open to closed loop..
um, I guess since you said that you get really lean around 4k? which is weird, but do yo start your runs around 3.5k? because if you do, I would think that no matter what it would go lean, because in the beginning of all of my runs it is pretty lean while it is building boost, but if you have already reached full boost then there's gotta be something wrong..
my biggest suggestion at this point would be to make a few of the data logs and upload your map with the runs on there so we can look at them and whats going on better. that would help a lot
um, I guess since you said that you get really lean around 4k? which is weird, but do yo start your runs around 3.5k? because if you do, I would think that no matter what it would go lean, because in the beginning of all of my runs it is pretty lean while it is building boost, but if you have already reached full boost then there's gotta be something wrong..
my biggest suggestion at this point would be to make a few of the data logs and upload your map with the runs on there so we can look at them and whats going on better. that would help a lot
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
4K is where the car forces open loop.
SpeedAdiction20
Member
- :
- 2003 MAZDASPEED Protege
hm, well that's good to know.. but ya unless you have the ssafc .k. but anyways..
my biggest suggestion at this point would be to make a few of the data logs and upload your map with the runs on there so we can look at them and whats going on better. that would help a lot
Sorry, I just realized I'm making you repeat yourself. I'm going to put the stock super map back on. Thats where I started anyway so maybe its best that I over-wrote my map, at the very least I've learned to keep copies at all stages.
I'll do some pulls and data logs and see what I come up with. Thanks for the help.
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