70 durameter mounts

[Spooled]

I started this thread because after reading through about 15 other threads on motor mounts, there isn't a single person that has actually posted about their experience with 70 durameter motor mounts.

I think that my rear mount is toast and I want to replace both mounts with AWR 70 duarmeter mount/inserts. Does anyone actually have 70s in the front and rear? No offense, but I don't want to hear about your experience with 88 or 95 or any combination of the two. I have already had experience with an 88 up front and it destroyed my rear mount. I just want to get urathane all around and be done with it.

So who has 70 front and rear? Vibrations? Wheel hop?

Thanks guys!

 

[Professor MSP]

I started this thread because after reading through about 15 other threads on motor mounts, there isn't a single person that has actually posted about their experience with 70 durameter motor mounts.

I think that my rear mount is toast and I want to replace both mounts with AWR 70 duarmeter mount/inserts. Does anyone actually have 70s in the front and rear? No offense, but I don't want to hear about your experience with 88 or 95 or any combination of the two. I have already had experience with an 88 up front and it destroyed my rear mount. I just want to get urathane all around and be done with it.

So who has 70 front and rear? Vibrations? Wheel hop?

Thanks guys!

Here is a thread that has some feedback on the 70 durometer motor mount: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106540. My comments pertain to the front mount only, as I had the OEM rear mount at that time. I've since replaced the 70 durometer front mount with a filled front OEM mount and added the Weapon-R engine damper. I prefer the latter combination by a considerable margin. I will check back tonight and give further comments if you so wish.

 

[Spooled]

Here is a thread that has some feedback on the 70 durometer motor mount: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106540. My comments pertain to the front mount only, as I had the OEM rear mount at that time. I've since replaced the 70 durometer front mount with a filled front OEM mount and added the Weapon-R engine damper. I prefer the latter combination by a considerable margin. I will check back tonight and give further comments if you so wish.

Thanks, I just read through that thread. Have you checked your rear mount at all? Is it damaged or torn? I need to get a close look at mine sa I think it might be toast. I rarely ever launch hard in 1st gear, so it don't abuse it. I think that if it's torn it's because I had an 88 up front for a few months with nothing in the rear. I may try the Weapon-R damper first to see if that helps. I don't need it for launches since I don't drag race, but I think it might be causing my aftermarket exhaust to hit under harder loads.

So you think that the filled front mount along with the damper has lower NVH than the 88 alone?

 

[Professor MSP]

Thanks, I just read through that thread. Have you checked your rear mount at all? Is it damaged or torn? I need to get a close look at mine sa I think it might be toast. I rarely ever launch hard in 1st gear, so it don't abuse it. I think that if it's torn it's because I had an 88 up front for a few months with nothing in the rear. I may try the Weapon-R damper first to see if that helps. I don't need it for launches since I don't drag race, but I think it might be causing my aftermarket exhaust to hit under harder loads.

So you think that the filled front mount along with the damper has lower NVH than the 88 alone?

I have not checked my rear mount. I will take a look this weekend if I remember and check back in.

At idle, with the lights and/or AC on, the filled OEM front mount with the Weapon-R damper has much lower levels of NVH than just the 88 durometer mount up front. Once you get rolling, however, the difference bewteen the two setups vanishes. That combination also has a fair bit less vibration than just the 70 durometer mount up front too (again at idle, with the lights and/or AC on).

I should add that I have not experienced any of the problems that some others have had with the Weapon-R engine damper.

 

[UnNaturalinc]

When I replace my clutch again I plan on downgraded to these mounts myself. I've got the stiffer ones now that are just too stiff for street use.

In a street car I would imagine the 70's would be more than enough mount for the car (front and rear).

 

[jrodhotrod]

Okay...

I have had experience with multiple combinations of mounts. Front only, Front and rear 95, front and rear 88, And most recently I am running rear 70, and Front 88.

Moving the rear down to 70 really mellows things out. It's still obvious that it's not a factory mount and there is some of that 1,000 RPM vibration but it's considerably less than with the 88 in the rear mount. And in all honesty even with just the front mount and the front mount being 95 durometer I didn't find the rattling from that one all that bad at all.

88 front with 70 rear really is a winner combination for me. I like it.

 

[Mallard]

You should have asked me earlier. I had the front in my car and the rear was ready to install. However, I just dropped my car off at the airport to its new owner.

The car wasn't noticabley different from stock abover 800rpms. I think it was a good mod and I was very happy with it. It was a big improvement over stock for wheel hop and lift throttle situations, but didn't vibrate the car more then stock.

 

[apocman]

I have all four in and they are the hard ones. They'll ****'in rattle your teeth out, but i luv it...

 

[Spooled]

Great, thanks for all the great info! I am changing my oil today, so I'm going to see if I can get a good look at me rear. If it's still in good condition, then I will probably get the front 70 and the Weapon-R. I still may put the rear 70 in later, but I'm hoping to put that off for a while.

Thanks for all the info guys!

 

[Spooled]

Hmm, after looking through some of the threads on the damper, I might just do the mounts. I don't want to have to cut my strut bar or use shims. I don't like the idea of rigging it. It seems like people are having issues with them, too.

 

[Professor MSP]

Hmm, after looking through some of the threads on the damper, I might just do the mounts. I don't want to have to cut my strut bar or use shims. I don't like the idea of rigging it. It seems like people are having issues with them, too.

I did not have to cut the strut bar nor did I use shims, and it fits nicely. Note that I also wrote a small supplement to the Weapon-R instructions in one of the threads in which I indicated that all one has to cut is a small appendage off the strut tower bracket. For whatever reason, I have not had any "issues" with my damper either.

 

[Spooled]

I did not have to cut the strut bar nor did I use shims, and it fits nicely. Note that I also wrote a small supplement to the Weapon-R instructions in one of the threads in which I indicated that all one has to cut is a small appendage off the strut tower bracket. For whatever reason, I have not had any "issues" with my damper either.

Thanks, I'll keep this in mind. I need to replace my passenger-side motor mount first. I found that it was torn all the hell this weekend.

 

[ZenProtege]

I have 70's in both front and rear........what do you want to know?

 

[Spooled]

I have 70's in both front and rear........what do you want to know?

How is the vibrations at idle compared to stock? How is the engine rock / wheel hop?

 

[genius]

I have 70's in both front and rear........what do you want to know?

Man, that rear motot mount doesn't look like fun at all from what I have read.

 

[Spooled]

Man, that rear motot mount doesn't look like fun at all from what I have read.

Since I don't have a garage or power tools, and I can't afford to be without my car for more than a day if I screw something up, I plan I taking it to a show to have them do it. I've heard that it's not too bad (about $75) at most places. It would be worth it to me to have it done professionally.

 

[Spooled]

BTW genius, I took your advice and dropped 18 lb. from my car by draining the oil. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[ZenProtege]

The idle isn't too much worse than before, you will feel more vibration but its not an annoying hard vibration like the people with 88 or 93's describe, its more like a feeling of s**** bolted down solid. I idle a 500 rpm too

No wheel hop anymore! If its cold outside I get somthing similar but I think thats more of my tires not gripping than wheel hop.

Engine rock is very minimal
.
I would go with the 70's, I've read a bunch of complaints about people with stiffer duro. mounts @ idle and I couldn't make those same complaints with these, so it must be a lot better

 

[chowhoundMSP]

I had a local shop do mine for $66. I dont regret it. I know the guy who did it and i was in the garage with him the whole time. He has some computer for diagnosis of problems and it says for the 2.0L protege rear mount, 1 hour. Took this guy about 2.5 hours! and about an hour of the was spent trying to get one bolt out, cause a wiring harness is practically on top of it.

I have 70 front/rear now. Car feels much more drivable and steady especially under strain. I just noticed recently a good bit of shake with the lights on and the heater on, or if the fan kicks on, but it is easily overlooked or barely noticable with music on. Had this setup for about 4 months now and definalty wouldnt go back to stock, but also know that wouldnt go back to my 95 up front. (before this i tried 95f/70r)

I hope this helps, Napoleon. Let me know if you have any other questions about the setup.

 

[Spooled]

Great! Thanks for the solid reviews! I think I'm going to go ahead and order the F/R 70 setup. I may even get the side inserts to avoid ripping them again. Thanks again guys!