I'm looking at the Linear 6.5" component set with passive crossovers for the front doors and tweeters, with the 5.25" mids for the rear doors. Haven't been able to locate any 2.5" replacements for the D pillars. Would you have a suggestion? Thanks. Need to also find out if they are compatible with the stock head unit and amp.
2017 CX-5 Touring w/ Bose System; Time to Upgrade!
- Thread starter goodpeoples
- Start date
Hi Mike / All - Hmmm. Always the same with Bose and factory gear. Originally I fitted 2 way JBL GTO,s in the front doors as you could adjust the tweeter angles and they were around 3 ohm in the end I decided to upgrade the amp for a JL - 4 channel - sounds much sweeter. As per the rear door speakers I actually sacrificed them and cut the cones out and reused the frame ( adjusted) and fitted 6.5,s - more for mid bass .Regarding the tweeters in front screen pillars - the standard units only clip in to the surrounds and I retro fitted some JL,s again - 3/4” on mine but the inset surround that came with them fitted with a little alteration and one of the fitting kits supplied and allowed them to be tilt adjustable and I re- wired but left factory wiring in place just in case I wanted to revert at a later date. I think sometimes although I wanted my car fairly un molested per drilling and routing etc it is very difficult to mix and match with Bose and factory amps and you can achieve much better results at a reasonable cost. I also used a 4 in 6 out Helix Mini DSP to balance the sound for my ears which I used predominantly to adjust pillar tweeters as they were a little bright at higher volumes and I have blended the rear door speakers to the lower end and mid bass to reinforce the sub and to fettle the fronts a wee bit - which due again for me deciding to not have a box or fabricated wheel arch sub boxes installed ( was an option) and reduce load area - I decided on an active JBL bass hub in spare department - not quite what you can achieve with more up market subs but so far I am happy with the compromise although still fine fettling as always - trial and error on drive outs and different genres - good luck finding what you are after - I will follow with interest - Phil 
Thank you for the replies guys. Didn't take me long to forget the speaker ohm issue. Back to plan B, sound deadening and one of these...
Not sure if I need the mk2 or can get away with the mini.
That is going to make your life so much easier and no matter what we say or the tech available your ears will tell you what is right - and the Helix will allow you to fine tune to the sweet spot you are looking for - I have been really pleased with the mini I used although it does make you a more self inflicted audio file haha - keep on fine fettling 
Phil
PhilPS if I hadn’t had my JL amp buckshee from a previous life I would have gone that way too ( less complex install) one central 8 channel unit - wowser - what’s cost stateside - I picked up my Helix Mini DSP only direct from Germany & incl. customs and tax into uk - £240 approx.$320 which I thought was a no brainer -absolute bargain - for the quality - and keeping costs down re using amp and speakers … Again working from scratch I think you are making a really good choice and giving yourself countless options this way to trim all components - whatever speaker set up you use - I am definitely jealous 
Phil
Phil Any new updates? Read the Muscars NW site yesterday, and found it interesting that they only recommend upgrading the front components and leave the back alone. Wonder it it would be worth finding a spot for the third midrange driver, and leave the rest alone?
A lot of people concentrate on fronts but I have found that by reducing the rears power and range slightly enhances the sub in in boot and improves the lower frequency and omni directional effect to the ear. I am running rears mid to low approx 75 hz- 14Khz at a slightly reduced output compared to the front mid drivers and the higher frequencies concentrated around the front tweeters.Sub running between 30 - 70Hz .Still trimming slightly with DSP but sounds awesome just preference tweaking as I am driving out more with more intense listening ! 
isn’t it always the way…
Did you go with the Helix amp set up - Mk1 or 11 …
Phil
isn’t it always the way…Did you go with the Helix amp set up - Mk1 or 11 …
Phil
Thank you for the rea speaker info. No I haven't. Seems the Match 86 is the way to go. No need to spend the extra $600.00.A lot of people concentrate on fronts but I have found that by reducing the rears power and range slightly enhances the sub in in boot and improves the lower frequency and omni directional effect to the ear. I am running rears mid to low approx 75 hz- 14Khz at a slightly reduced output compared to the front mid drivers and the higher frequencies concentrated around the front tweeters.Sub running between 30 - 70Hz .Still trimming slightly with DSP but sounds awesome just preference tweaking as I am driving out more with more intense listening !
Did you go with the Helix amp set up - Mk1 or 11 …
Phil
Yep it is always the case to try and set a maximum budget cost against the best quality sound output available within that arena - I had a a JL amp and tweeters available from another recent upgrade which I removed when vehicle sold so I went the way I did - my only real additional cost was my Helix DSP which made a night and day difference and gave me the adjustability I required for my format ( Money well spent) the other cost was sound proofing/ deadening which is essential in any vehicle when upgrading to get the best possible results….mind you I have heard the match is very good although I have not had a listen in the flesh where one has been fitted as yet as they are not used as commonly in the UK - let me know how it goes and your thoughts after setting up 
Phil
Phil After all the helpful information here, I've decided to step back and reassess everything. Have the Killmat and Norco on the shelf in the garage, waiting to get the mass loaded vinyl next. DSP and speakers next.Yep it is always the case to try and set a maximum budget cost against the best quality sound output available within that arena - I had a a JL amp and tweeters available from another recent upgrade which I removed when vehicle sold so I went the way I did - my only real additional cost was my Helix DSP which made a night and day difference and gave me the adjustability I required for my format ( Money well spent) the other cost was sound proofing/ deadening which is essential in any vehicle when upgrading to get the best possible results….mind you I have heard the match is very good although I have not had a listen in the flesh where one has been fitted as yet as they are not used as commonly in the UK - let me know how it goes and your thoughts after setting up
I used Noico on my rear wheel arches and boot floor and external inner door panels as it is quite thick and dynamat 2mm on door cards I also foam padded speakers (doors) to fronts and anti vibration / discs to rear cage and magnet gives solid feel when sutting doors as well as sound deadening and was reasonably priced - the floors I only used mid tunnel , footwells and inner front wheel arches as the cx5 has insulation quite thick to the general flooring already and the difference was astonishing even before I upgraded the amp , sub etc - money very well spent and well worth the effort - no rattling ,vibration and really deadens road/tyre noise - I also reinforced the standard thin under bonnet insulation and the majority of the engine firewall where I could access without getting to mechanically inclined - you will be absolutely amazed at the difference all this made and it will make your new system clarity and power seem limitless - I can only get my system to 25% and my gains are set to max at 75% of head unit volume before my ears start to ring unless for short bursts of metal and clear as a bell - no distortion at usable volumes - good luck and keep us in the loop as you go - Phil UK
Was wondering if I could use the mass loaded vinyl on the door cards, as the Killmat is to thick.
That’s why I used Dynamatt on the door cards - very flexible and foil fronted 2 mm overall thickness - fairly expensive compared to the Noico but easier to use and shape adequate to stop vibration etc. but didn’t need loads and the Noico I used was nearly 6mm overall and had to be flattened out with a roller and tools but really takes the “ting and bass booming effect” out of the doors and substantially improves the bass - ps don’t forget the tailgate - I did do this but forgot to mention - people do drone on about outright power but actually with good sound deadening and quality speakers and amps I find the the clarity and quality of sound far more important and in a car the the soundstage and stereo separation - hence the DSP - 50 / 70W on doors and tweeters and a decent sub - 200 / 300W ample if set up right unless you are going to shows and opening doors to let everyone have a listen…..
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- South Carolina
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- 12 MZ5 13 CX-5
Yes, that's what I did.
Asphalt based on the outer door skin
Closed cell foam on the inner door skin
MLV on the door cards.
As I said whichever way you go the full sound deadening routine pays dividends and you will end up not really requiring vast amps and speaker power to achieve a nice balanced clear non distorted sound unless you really are a bass head or attending custom type shows - I love the effect I am getting from my relatively low powered system - the only mod I might do later is a head unit upgrade if I can find something was doesn’t need extensive dashboard alteration and Santy gives me some cash for Christmas…..
That makes a lot more sense. I was under the impression that you placed all three layers on the outside skin. Thanks for clarifying.
