2017 CX-5 GT - Plugs and Transmission Fluid

[clownshoes2]

Ok, so I've got a bit of a whine from the rear end. I think it might be a wheel bearing so the vehicle is headed in next Thursday to have that looked at.

I have 172k kms on the odometer.

I asked the garage to provide me a quote for replacing the spark plugs. My question is, does anyone have a definitive part number for OEM replacement plugs or a suitable aftermarket plug. I know there is hot and heavy debate on here but I just want a nice replacement plug.

Second, I have asked them to provide me a quote to drop the transmission pan, replace the filter and put new fluid in.
Can anyone provide me definitive part numbers for a transmission kit or will them ordering straight from Mazda do the trick?
Recommendations on fluid?
I also would like to get opinions on changing the transmission fluid at this age. The stealership was VERY adamant I do not change the fluid.

I would just like to be prepared.

 

[yrwei52]

A whine from the rear end could also be the input bearing on rear differential if you have an AWD.

Spark plug: either Mazda p/n PE5R-18-110 or aftermarket NGK ILKAR7L11 #94124.

Spark plug dilemma (2014 CX-5)

Be aware there’s a Mazda OEM “Value” PE5R-18-110-MV spark plug which is cheaper than aftermarket NGK plug and it’s only ⅓ of the price of normal OEM PE5R-18-110 plug.

The Mazda p/n for automatic transmission strainer / filter cartridge is FZ01-21-500. You want to use Mazda ATF FZ p/n 0000-FZ-113E-01 as you can only drain about a half of the total ATF amount inside of transmission even if you drop the pan. Mixing different types of ATF won’t be a good idea, not to mention Mazda ATF FZ is designed to be used only for its transmission.

2013 - 2016 CX-5 Transmission Fluid Drain/Filter Replacement Guide

There’re plenty of CX-5 owners have done the first ATF change at higher mileage than your 106,876 miles / 172K km. You can do a simple drain&fill first and see if there’s any ill effects. Then do the next after certain miles of driving. Then do the 3rd time dropping the pan to replace the strainer. 3X ATF changes gives you about 87.5% of fresh ATF and that’s the Mazda and many other car manufactures official procedure to replace the ATF if the transmission can’t be hooked up a commercial ATF flush machine directly like Mazda’s SkyActiv-Drive transmission.

BTW, if you’re going to have an indie shop doing all the work, and you want to stick with OEM parts, make sure to ask them to leave all OEM part packages and boxes for you to verify. Or you can supply those OEM parts to the shop and let them install them. It’s cheaper for you but some shops may not want to because they also want to make money by selling OEM parts to you too.

 

[murky]

What's wrong with the Value Line plug. Looks like its from NGK, what do they do to make it cheaper to manufacture?

The notion of value line is a big turn-off, especially with no information about the differences.

 

[clownshoes2]

A whine from the rear end could also be the input bearing on rear differential if you have an AWD.

What does this repair go for? Approx? Sucks because this noise literally just appeared out of no where.

Spark plug: either Mazda p/n PE5R-18-110 or aftermarket NGK ILKAR7L11 #94124.

I'll just ask for one of these 2 part numbers.

The Mazda p/n for automatic transmission strainer / filter cartridge is FZ01-21-500. You want to use Mazda ATF FZ p/n 0000-FZ-113E-01 as you can only drain about a half of the total ATF amount inside of transmission even if you drop the pan. Mixing different types of ATF won’t be a good idea, not to mention Mazda ATF FZ is designed to be used only for its transmission.

BTW, if you’re going to have an indie shop doing all the work, and you want to stick with OEM parts, make sure to ask them leave all OEM packages and boxes for you to verify. Or you can supply those OEM parts to the shop and let them install them. It’s cheaper for you but some shops may not want to because they want make money on selling OEM parts to you too.

Again, I'll just ask for these two part numbers. The shop I go to is pretty aware of needing specific fluids. I will mention to them as well.

Thank you for your information.

 

[Mazdiod2]

What's wrong with the Value Line plug. Looks like its from NGK, what do they do to make it cheaper to manufacture?

The notion of value line is a big turn-off, especially with no information about the differences.

The real question is what makes the Mazda branded plug so expensive?

 

[yrwei52]

What's wrong with the Value Line plug. Looks like its from NGK, what do they do to make it cheaper to manufacture?

The notion of value line is a big turn-off, especially with no information about the differences.

The PE5R-18-110-MV spark plug doesn’t have “NGK” imprint on the ceramic insulator. Nothing said on the box it’s from NGK. It’s made in Mexico and I don’t believe there’s an NGK spark plug sold in the US is from Mexico. It’s much cheaper for sure and it’s backed by Mazda ⋯

 

[murky]

Ah, my google search was sloppy. I copied and pasted the number but then probably looked at a result without the MV.

I assume there are no horror stories with those plugs, just not trusted like NGK?

 

[sm1ke]

I remember one instance of a member having misfiring issues shortly after a plug swap, and the issues went away after switching to either an OEM plug or a branded plug. Unfortunately I can't remember whether the first plugs they swapped in were MV plugs or some other aftermarkets.

EDIT: Here's the thread. Looks like OP swapped to NGK ILKAR7L11 plugs, same ones that many others have used without issues, BUT in his case they may have been counterfeit plugs. It was never verified/confirmed. After he bought the Mazda OEM plugs, his issues went away.

I personally will be swapping to my last set of NGK "equivalents" for my 2.5T sometime this weekend. After that I'll probably give the MV plugs a try.

 

[cz5gt]

Been there had horrible misfires on turbo DI (not Mazda) turned out the ceramic had micro crack. The plugs were supposed to be a brand but they had a defect.
Since then no compromise with plugs for me. Given the fact they last at least 40,000 miles and are one of the critical components in the ignition system.
But may be the MV is ok.. I dont know.

 

[murky]

I remember one instance of a member having misfiring issues shortly after a plug swap, and the issues went away after switching to either an OEM plug or a branded plug. Unfortunately I can't remember whether the first plugs they swapped in were MV plugs or some other aftermarkets.

EDIT: Here's the thread. Looks like OP swapped to NGK ILKAR7L11 plugs, same ones that many others have used without issues, BUT in his case they may have been counterfeit plugs. It was never verified/confirmed. After he bought the Mazda OEM plugs, his issues went away.

I personally will be swapping to my last set of NGK "equivalents" for my 2.5T sometime this weekend. After that I'll probably give the MV plugs a try.

Seems like counterfeit plugs have resistance values all over the place. I plan on buying NGK equivalent and just measure resistance before installation to ensure they are in spec.

 

[Mazdiod2]

I guess the resistance is for radio suppression. NGK has a bit of information on their plugs recommended for CX5. I wonder if the MV could be a fine-wire platinum plug?
They say the Iridium IX plug is for performance, but has a shorter life. The ground electrode tip is ground to a taper on the IX.
I don't plan on replacing my plugs for a while because these have such a long life. I don't want to replace them with something inferior when the plugs I have work fine. I might consider getting the Ruthenium as they claim better performance and especially long life but I imagine another set of OE plugs will last the remaining life of my car.

 

[clownshoes2]

Welp, the truck is going in for that noise tomorrow. *fingers crossed* Heres to hoping I don't need a new transmission...or rear end, or something else expensive.

 

[yrwei52]

Welp, the truck is going in for that noise tomorrow. *fingers crossed* Heres to hoping I don't need a new transmission...or rear end, or something else expensive.

Keep us posted.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

OVT = OrangeVirus Tuning

Spark plug dilemma (2014 CX-5)

⋯ Regarding EV's from China, I'm not in the market for an EV but just saw on youtube videos about massive EV buildup (there's apparently a lot of brands offered) and some with quality problems like axles falling off. 😱 If you have a chance to check out the Beijing Auto Show recently, there’re...

mazdas247.com

I guess the resistance is for radio suppression. NGK has a bit of information on their plugs recommended for CX5. I wonder if the MV could be a fine-wire platinum plug?
They say the Iridium IX plug is for performance, but has a shorter life. The ground electrode tip is ground to a taper on the IX.
I don't plan on replacing my plugs for a while because these have such a long life. I don't want to replace them with something inferior when the plugs I have work fine. I might consider getting the Ruthenium as they claim better performance and especially long life but I imagine another set of OE plugs will last the remaining life of my car.
View attachment 329289

 

[clownshoes2]

Keep us posted.

Turns out it was the passenger rear wheel bearing. Thank god.

 

[yrwei52]

Turns out it was the passenger rear wheel bearing. Thank god.

Thank you for the update. Since I have similar whining noise after reaching 25+ mph from rear; I may have same problem like you. Can you tell me which side of rear wheel bearing was having whining noise? Did the shop heard the whining noise and told you for sure the noise is from rear wheel bearing? Did you actually see the bad bearing the shop took out and if you did, what did the damage look like? Finally, how much did it cost you to replace one wheel bearing?

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Thank you for the update. Since I have similar whining noise after reaching 25+ mph from rear; I may have same problem like you. Can you tell me which side of rear wheel bearing was having whining noise? Did the shop heard the whining noise and told you for sure the noise is from rear wheel bearing? Did you actually see the bad bearing the shop took out and if you did, what did the damage look like? Finally, how much did it cost you to replace one wheel bearing?

You could lift and see if you have any wiggle trying to wobble the tire at 12 and 6.. if seems solid might be that rear diff

Look for any grease leakage as well out of the bearing

 

[yrwei52]

You could lift and see if you have any wiggle trying to wobble the tire at 12 and 6.. if seems solid might be that rear diff

Look for any grease leakage as well out of the bearing

My worry is the whining noise seems to be from middle part of rear, not from either side. And the noise is kind of resonating into the entire cabin when the speed is over 25 mph. Thanks for the suggestion and and I’ll check the looseness of rear wheel bearings first when I have time.

 

[felixd]

Hi guys i have added a video for us regarding intermitten low idle issue. Hope this one helps everybody who has CX 5.

Mazda CX 5 Spark Plugs LOW Idle Issue // Genuine Vs Fake IRIDIUM PLUGS DENSO TWIN TIP

youtu.be

Godbless

 

[Lazy2.5]

My worry is the whining noise seems to be from middle part of rear, not from either side. And the noise is kind of resonating into the entire cabin when the speed is over 25 mph. Thanks for the suggestion and and I’ll check the looseness of rear wheel bearings first when I have time.

Most likely it is one of your rear wheel bearings. I had this occur on my vehicle after approx. 240,000KM the bearing is less than $100, when ordered as part of the entire hub assembly, and replacing the hub is pretty easy so long as there isn't much corrosion to battle with. mine does not have any play in it, despite the noise.