2017 CX-5 GT - Plugs and Transmission Fluid

[clownshoes2]

Ok, so I simply told the shop I had a noise from the rear and it was a whining noise. I didn't want to lead him.
They road tested the vehicle checked out the truck. The mechanic said that it was clearly the rear wheel bearing making the noise. There was no play in the bearing yet which is why when you moved the vehicle side to side the noise didn't go womp womp womp and then stop when turning.

The cost was like $586 after taxes. I can post the bill later today.

 

[Lazy2.5]

Ok, so I simply told the shop I had a noise from the rear and it was a whining noise. I didn't want to lead him.
They road tested the vehicle checked out the truck. The mechanic said that it was clearly the rear wheel bearing making the noise. There was no play in the bearing yet which is why when you moved the vehicle side to side the noise didn't go womp womp womp and then stop when turning.

The cost was like $586 after taxes. I can post the bill later today.

I'm bringing my car in for a rear wheel bearing tomorrow. Just so you know, the bearing is about $100 (CAD) and I was quoted about an hour or labour ($120) to replace it.

 

[Jmaz]

I'm bringing my car in for a rear wheel bearing tomorrow. Just so you know, the bearing is about $100 (CAD) and I was quoted about an hour or labour ($120) to replace it.

Offhand I don't know the price of an OEM Mazda wheel bearing but aftermarket wheel bearings can be a crapshoot. The one's with the ' Wing Ling' or similar heritage bearings may not last too long.

 

[yrwei52]

Ok, so I simply told the shop I had a noise from the rear and it was a whining noise. I didn't want to lead him.
They road tested the vehicle checked out the truck. The mechanic said that it was clearly the rear wheel bearing making the noise. There was no play in the bearing yet which is why when you moved the vehicle side to side the noise didn't go womp womp womp and then stop when turning.

The cost was like $586 after taxes. I can post the bill later today.

Please post the invoice if you can.

$586 is for both rear wheel bearings, or just one side? If one side, which side?

I believe the indie shop you went is a pretty good one on experience. The guy just nailed the problem with a test drive. I’ll see which shop (if it’s a national chain like Brakes Plus?) when you post the invoice.

Edit: re-read your previous post #15 and it’s only the passenger side rear wheel bearing. Not sure how the tech figured out the noise is from the passenger side while doing the test drive. Must have a good hearing! I believe the shop replaced only the bearing because they have tools and experience, not the entire hub assembly.

And BTW, it would nice if you can modify the thread title to include real wheel bearing discussion?

 

[yrwei52]

I'm bringing my car in for a rear wheel bearing tomorrow. Just so you know, the bearing is about $100 (CAD) and I was quoted about an hour or labour ($120) to replace it.

Have you already figured out which side of rear bearing? Please keep us posted.

 

[yrwei52]

Offhand I don't know the price of an OEM Mazda wheel bearing but aftermarket wheel bearings can be a crapshoot. The one's with the ' Wing Ling' or similar heritage bearings may not last too long.

Thanks for the tip. IMO my rear whining noise, either from one of the rear wheel bearings (or both?) or rear differential input bearing, happens too early and too soon at 52K miles which caught me by surprise.

It happens when we drove down to Austin a month ago on I-35. Wife was driving suddenly there was a chime and the TPMS warning light was lit. I thought one of the tires hit a nail, but couldn’t find anything and the tire pressures were all at 40 psi with warm tires. I reset the TPMS and started driving again. Strangely once the speed was above 25 mph, I heard this whining noise from rear. It’s bad enough that the noise was resonating the entire cabin even wife could hear it.

I believe the noise problem on my 2016 CX-5 isn’t urgent but annoying, and I’m not in the hurry to fix it. But consider the wheel bearings and rear differential input bearing on my 1998 Honda CR-V EX AWD with 192K miles are still original without noise and have never needed the replacement, I started to doubt how good the OEM bearing quality is and can it be superior than those “Wing Ling” or similar heritage bearings?

 

[clownshoes2]

Please post the invoice if you can.

$586 is for both rear wheel bearings, or just one side? If one side, which side?

I believe the indie shop you went is a pretty good one on experience. The guy just nailed the problem with a test drive. I’ll see which shop (if it’s a national chain like Brakes Plus?) when you post the invoice.

Edit: re-read your previous post #15 and it’s only the passenger side rear wheel bearing. Not sure how the tech figured out the noise is from the passenger side while doing the test drive. Must have a good hearing! I believe the shop replaced only the bearing because they have tools and experience, not the entire hub assembly.

And BTW, it would nice if you can modify the thread title to include real wheel bearing discussion?

I believe SOP is to check the vehicle while it's up on the hoist as well, but he said when he drove it, he could tell it was just a bearing and it was coming from the rear. Good mechanics can do that type of thing. I've literally seen a mechanic diagnose an Eagle Talon as it was idling in his bay. He called me over and said "Listen, to this...It's going to be this, this and this." I helped him strip down that motor and everything he said it would be, it was. He was a savant.

 

[clownshoes2]

Thanks for the tip. IMO my rear whining noise, either from one of the rear wheel bearings (or both?) or rear differential input bearing, happens too early and too soon at 52K miles which caught me by surprise.

My guy said that sometimes before bearings start to get play in them, they will make noise and it will sound odd and not a typical bearing sound. His opinion is that it's a good bearing, whereas a bad bearing will just go bad and get play in them and make the typical womp womp womp sound right away.

 

[Mazdiod2]

My guy said that sometimes before bearings start to get play in them, they will make noise and it will sound odd and not a typical bearing sound. His opinion is that it's a good bearing, whereas a bad bearing will just go bad and get play in them and make the typical womp womp womp sound right away.

What about repacking the bearing with grease? That used to be regular maintainance.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

AFAIK… I’m not aware of sealed bearings that can be repacked.

EDIT: Perhaps something before damage but nothing I’ve ever looked into

IMO… at point of vibration and noise grease isn’t going to save it and damage is already done.

 

[clownshoes2]

What about repacking the bearing with grease? That used to be regular maintenance.

I'm not sure these are serviceable bearings. It may be a hub assembly type setup.

 

[yrwei52]

AFAIK… I’m not aware of sealed bearings that can be repacked.

I believe you can re-pack the (front) wheel bearing if you want to. On my 1998 Honda CR-V one time the Discount Tire broke a wheel stud at front. They sent me to Brakes Plus and the tech had to remove the front wheel hub to instal the new stud. The front wheel bearing was exposed with full of grease. The tech didn’t do anything to the grease and just put the hub back after the new stud was installed.

IMO… at point of vibration and noise grease isn’t going to save it and damage is already done.

I agree. Once there’s noise or vibration from bearing the damage has already done.

 

[Lazy2.5]

Thanks for the tip. IMO my rear whining noise, either from one of the rear wheel bearings (or both?) or rear differential input bearing, happens too early and too soon at 52K miles which caught me by surprise.

It happens when we drove down to Austin a month ago on I-35. Wife was driving suddenly there was a chime and the TPMS warning light was lit. I thought one of the tires hit a nail, but couldn’t find anything and the tire pressures were all at 40 psi with warm tires. I reset the TPMS and started driving again. Strangely once the speed was above 25 mph, I heard this whining noise from rear. It’s bad enough that the noise was resonating the entire cabin even wife could hear it.

I believe the noise problem on my 2016 CX-5 isn’t urgent but annoying, and I’m not in the hurry to fix it. But consider the wheel bearings and rear differential input bearing on my 1998 Honda CR-V EX AWD with 192K miles are still original without noise and have never needed the replacement, I started to doubt how good the OEM bearing quality is and can it be superior than those “Wing Ling” or similar heritage bearings?

Most likely it is just one of the rear wheel bearings. Jack up both sides in the rear and spin. You should hear which one of them is worn.

I agree that its not normal at this mileage. Living in rust Ontario, after 200,000km it could happen. but, living in texas, im sure that taking the hub off would be easier.

 

[yrwei52]

Most likely it is just one of the rear wheel bearings. Jack up both sides in the rear and spin. You should hear which one of them is worn.

I agree that its not normal at this mileage. Living in rust Ontario, after 200,000km it could happen. but, living in texas, im sure that taking the hub off would be easier.

Yeh if I ever decided to DIY on this problem l’d follow your advise and others to check the wheel bearings and take the hub off replacing the bad bearing. At 102°F it’s too hot to work on anything on cars right now. I’ll wait until the weather is cooler and think about it. Who knows, wife is pushing to get a Lexus NX PHEV and we may just trade this CX-5 in and forget about fixing the problems our CX-5 is having.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

I won’t be getting rid of my CX-5 for probably another 10 years… I usually call it good around year 20. My G35x has about 3 more years before I am going to replace with a PHEV.

 

[Lazy2.5]

Yeh if I ever decided to DIY on this problem l’d follow your advise and others to check the wheel bearings and take the hub off replacing the bad bearing. At 102°F it’s too hot to work on anything on cars right now. I’ll wait until the weather is cooler and think about it. Who knows, wife is pushing to get a Lexus NX PHEV and we may just trade this CX-5 in and forget about fixing the problems our CX-5 is having.

I just had the bearing replaced today, coincidentally. I'm happy I did. The car is much quieter now at speed and even smoother.

The mechanic really struggled with the corrosion. Apparently the wheel speed sensor was stuck to the original hub. They broke the bracket holding it in place and had to fabricate something to keep it in place. I'll have to check the invoice notes again.

 

[Mazdiod2]

I just had the bearing replaced today, coincidentally. I'm happy I did. The car is much quieter now at speed and even smoother.

The mechanic really struggled with the corrosion. Apparently the wheel speed sensor was stuck to the original hub. They broke the bracket holding it in place and had to fabricate something to keep it in place. I'll have to check the invoice notes again.

Did the shop give you the old parts? They can be interesting to look at.

 

[Lazy2.5]

Did the shop give you the old parts? They can be interesting to look at.

I could have asked for it. I didn't. I'm just so happy that dreadful droning sound is gone. I also replace a front left LCA due to play in the balljoint. Steering feels much tighter and more responsive. Ride is smooth again. much better handling.

I noticed with my keen ear, that I can hear the engine much better now while chugging along at the usual low RPM's. I'm very happy.

 

[clownshoes2]

Question for anyone in the 613, Does anyone know who can do a transmission pan drop, filter and refill. As previously stated, my mechanic doesn't have the fittings which I think is code for we don't want to do it. Any and all help appreciated.

 

[Lazy2.5]

Question for anyone in the 613, Does anyone know who can do a transmission pan drop, filter and refill. As previously stated, my mechanic doesn't have the fittings which I think is code for we don't want to do it. Any and all help appreciated.

Find a transmission shop. Call mechanics. You'll find someone who does it.