2016 CX-5 Starting issue

J

Jraay44

Our 2016 Grand Touring CX5 is having intermittent starting issues.
One moment it may start and then not.
We had the break switch changed out.
I’ve checked the battery voltage and at times it shows 9 - 10 volts. And then have it go to 12.8 after a few minutes without the engine running.
I’ve had the battery checked more than once and all say it is good.
Jumping the car gets it started. 🤪
I left it at one reputable repair center and they found nothing.
I’ve read many posts about this issue but never seen anyone post a solution.
Has anyone actually come across the fix?
Thanks
 
Could have a broken or cracked plate in the battery. Bad / loose ground. Bad / corroded connections somewhere. Just throwing a couple ideas out there
 
Jraay44 said:
Our 2016 Grand Touring CX5 is having intermittent starting issues.
One moment it may start and then not.
We had the break switch changed out.
I’ve checked the battery voltage and at times it shows 9 - 10 volts. And then have it go to 12.8 after a few minutes without the engine running.
I’ve had the battery checked more than once and all say it is good.
Jumping the car gets it started. 🤪
I left it at one reputable repair center and they found nothing.
I’ve read many posts about this issue but never seen anyone post a solution.
Has anyone actually come across the fix?
Thanks
Click to expand...
A friend of mine was having similar problem on her 2018 Lexus ES. She went to AutoZone to check the 1.5 year old battery by my suggestion and the rep said it’s fine. Then she went to an indy shop been told she needed new brakes at front and rear. Luckily she didn’t have time to do it at the time and stopped by the Brakes Plus on the way home thinking she can do brake job there closer to her house. The tech at Brakes Plus told her she didn’t need any new brakes as there’re 6 / 5 mm left F / R. But he did find the battery is weak and needs a new one. I suggested her to have the tech writing down the battery problem on the invoice and take the car to a different AutoZone. The rep at different AutoZone replaced the battery under warranty no questions asked after saw the writing from Brakes Plus. Her Lexus ES is fine since the new battery installed.

BTW, the balance due on Brakes Plus invoice is $0 after all the checking with the car on the lift and wheels off. She gave the tech $20 tip to appreciate his work and honesty.

So how old is your battery? And what brand or where did you get it?
 
Last edited:
Jraay44 said:
Our 2016 Grand Touring CX5 is having intermittent starting issues.
One moment it may start and then not.
We had the break switch changed out.
I’ve checked the battery voltage and at times it shows 9 - 10 volts. And then have it go to 12.8 after a few minutes without the engine running.
I’ve had the battery checked more than once and all say it is good.
Jumping the car gets it started. 🤪
I left it at one reputable repair center and they found nothing.
I’ve read many posts about this issue but never seen anyone post a solution.
Has anyone actually come across the fix?
Thanks
Click to expand...

If the original battery is still in use, then there's no question that you need a new one.

If its reading 9 to 10vdc it's toast.

I’ve checked the battery voltage and at times it shows 9 - 10 volts. And then have it go to 12.8 after a few minutes without the engine running.

Without the engine running? Did you mean to say WITH the engine running? Or did it jump up to 12.8 from 9 to 10 with nothing happening? If so, that sounds like a connection issue.

With the engine running the reading should be over 14vdc. If not, there's a problem.
 
yrwei52 said:
A friend of mine was having similar problem on her 2018 Lexus ES. She went to AutoZone to check the 1.5 year old battery by my suggestion and the rep said it’s fine. Then she went to an indy shop been told she needed new brakes at front and rear. Luckily she didn’t have time to do it at the time and stopped by the Brakes Plus on the way home thinking she can do brake job there closer to her house. The tech at Brakes Plus told her she didn’t need any new brakes as there’re 6 / 5 mm left F / R. But he did find the battery is weak and needs a new one. I suggested her to have the tech writing down the battery problem on the invoice and take the car to a different AutoZone. The rep at different AutoZone replaced the battery under warranty no questions asked after saw the writing from Brakes Plus. Her Lexus ES is fine since the new battery installed.

BTW, the balance due on Brakes Plus invoice is $0 after all the checking with the car on the lift and wheels off. She gave the tech $20 tip to appreciate his work and honesty.

So how old is your battery? And what brand or where did you get it?
Click to expand...
It’s just a couple years old. From O’Riley Auto. I’ve had four different places check it . All said it was good. I hate to spend $200 on a new one and not be the solution . But I may.
Thank you
 
HyFlyer said:
Could have a broken or cracked plate in the battery. Bad / loose ground. Bad / corroded connections somewhere. Just throwing a couple ideas out there
Click to expand...
I appreciate the note. I may try a new battery.
$200 more at a guess is a consideration. Thank you
 
Jraay44 said:
It’s just a couple years old. From O’Riley Auto. I’ve had four different places check it . All said it was good. I hate to spend $200 on a new one and not be the solution . But I may.
Thank you
Click to expand...
Just go to WalMart and get an EverStart Maxx Group 35 battery with 3-year replacement warranty for $139.84 which has the best C/P value currently. They can do installation for you on site without the hassle of bring the old battery back for core charge like Costco. I believe you can return it if you still have problem starting after the new battery installation so make sure pay the core charge and keep the old battery for a while.

Or if you have a Brakes Plus near by they may check your battery condition for free.

Try a new battery first is the easiest way to figure out your problem. I have a friend whose car couldn’t start a couple of times and needed a jump. He drove to the WalMart complaining and the 1 year old EverStart battery got replaced no questions asked.
 
Conrad 16.5 said:
If the original battery is still in use, then there's no question that you need a new one.

If its reading 9 to 10vdc it's toast.

I’ve checked the battery voltage and at times it shows 9 - 10 volts. And then have it go to 12.8 after a few minutes without the engine running.

Without the engine running? Did you mean to say WITH the engine running? Or did it jump up to 12.8 from 9 to 10 with nothing happening? If so, that sounds like a connection issue.

With the engine running the reading should be over 14vdc. If not, there's a problem.
Click to expand...
The battery voltage jumped up from the 9-10 V to 12.9 without the engine running.
The battery connections and cables look good. No corrosion . All tight
HyFlyer said:
Could have a broken or cracked plate in the battery. Bad / loose ground. Bad / corroded connections somewhere. Just throwing a couple ideas out there
Click to expand...
Thank you
 
madar said:
No way it should be showing 9 to 10 volts.
Click to expand...
It’s crazy.
I did notice it would go to I’ve 10 volts when the inside dome lights went off. I may have a parasitic draw. I’m not sure if I’m capable of locating it.
 

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How are you measuring the battery voltage?

A Clore Solar BA9 can test battery health, and cranking, and charging voltage. That would give you real data to make a decision.
 
I'm not sure I understand, but it sounds like you can get a reading of 12.9v sometimes with the engine off? That is a full, or more than full, battery (12.6v is full).

If that is the case it can't be your battery. Bad batteries struggle to maintain full charge.
 
I think the question is more about where you are measuring the voltage, is it directly on the battery terminals or somewhere else?
 
Jraay44 said:
The battery voltage jumped up from the 9-10 V to 12.9 without the engine running.
The battery connections and cables look good. No corrosion . All tight

Thank you
Click to expand...

Unless something in your car is turning on and off on its own (while you're testing), pulling down the voltage, then it's almost certainly a bad connection. Bad batteries don't all of a sudden start producing 12.8vdc when they just tested at 9/10vcd.

If it was my car, I would completely disconnect the battery terminals, and wire brush both battery terminals and the connectors. Before you reconnect, test the battery voltage and see what's what. Again, if it was me, I would charge the battery at this point and after its charged, reconnect and see what happens.

I'm still on the original battery in my CX, but I've been using a tender for the entire life of the car. If yours is still original and you haven't been maintaining the battery, most likely it needs to be replaced.
 
Thank you
I have it in a Mazda dealer in hopes they can find the issue. If they come up with something, I will post the findings.
 
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