2017 CX-5 Grand Select vs 2021 Grand Touring

Hello,

I’m just hoping to see everyone’s thoughts on my situation.

I’m currently debating whether or not I should purchase a 2017 CX-5 Grand Select (99k miles for ~$17K) or a 2021 CX-5 Grand Touring non-turbo (84k miles for ~$19k). Both have clean CARFAX reports with decent service records.

From my research on this forum I’ve concluded that the 2017 CX-5 is the most reliable of the current gen CX-5’s due to the lack of cylinder deactivation. I’m somewhat concerned about the cracked cylinder head issues that I’ve seen reports of in the NA 2018-present years.

I’m wondering if this issue is common enough that I should just go with the 2017 model to avoid any possibility of an expensive repair (even though the 2021 has numerous upgrades and fewer miles) what do you guys think?
 
Example ‘17 w/175k miles


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It was about the mileage & year not the price.

Personally I’d go with the ‘17 in light of very high mileage G1 2.5L Skyactiv motors
 
Just my opinion… it does for me… and likely doesn’t for a lot of others

I purchase for longer ownership periods than most do these days so I factor known weak points into those decisions.

You can’t really do anything about the weak points discovered after your purchase but known ones can factor into the decision.

I know the weak points of my Mazda, Infiniti, Lexus, and Jeep. I am prepared to address if the time comes.

This is just how I feel about it and others will differ.
 
I wish there was some way to quantify the number of cracked cylinder heads. It might be something like .05% or less but we will never know.

I'd like to see a figure that says X Purchased vs Y Cracked heads. This should include all turbos throughout the product lines.

Mazda knows and they should release the info.
 
Just my opinion… it does for me… and likely doesn’t for a lot of others

I purchase for longer ownership periods than most do these days so I factor known weak points into those decisions.

You can’t really do anything about the weak points discovered after your purchase but known ones can factor into the decision.

I know the weak points of my Mazda, Infiniti, Lexus, and Jeep. I am prepared to address if the time comes.

This is just how I feel about it and others will differ.
That's a smart way to go about it. It's just hard to evaluate the actual risk when the "weak point" could mean $4000-$10000 in repairs or it could never happen at all.
 
I wish there was some way to quantify the number of cracked cylinder heads. It might be something like .05% or less but we will never know.

I'd like to see a figure that says X Purchased vs Y Cracked heads. This should include all turbos throughout the product lines.

Mazda knows and they should release the info.
Right? We're obviously going to hear the negative from people that this has happened to but people are generally more likely to comment when there's a problem than when everything is working fine. It could just be a vocal minority but we'll likely never know the true extent of this.
 
Right? We're obviously going to hear the negative from people that this has happened to but people are generally more likely to comment when there's a problem than when everything is working fine. It could just be a vocal minority but we'll likely never know the true extent of this.
Exactly. I like my 19 GTR, never had a problem and want to keep it. Purchased the extended bumper to bumper warranty from Mazda that will cover for another 5 years/60k miles no deductible.
If the cylinder head cracks they can repair it and in the meantime I will have a loaner/rental.

As far as I know a crack will not brick the engine so we won't be stranded.
 
Hello,

I’m just hoping to see everyone’s thoughts on my situation.

I’m currently debating whether or not I should purchase a 2017 CX-5 Grand Select (99k miles for ~$17K) or a 2021 CX-5 Grand Touring non-turbo (84k miles for ~$19k). Both have clean CARFAX reports with decent service records.

From my research on this forum I’ve concluded that the 2017 CX-5 is the most reliable of the current gen CX-5’s due to the lack of cylinder deactivation. I’m somewhat concerned about the cracked cylinder head issues that I’ve seen reports of in the NA 2018-present years.

I’m wondering if this issue is common enough that I should just go with the 2017 model to avoid any possibility of an expensive repair (even though the 2021 has numerous upgrades and fewer miles) what do you guys think?
The cylinder heads were modified from original SkyActiv-G 2.5L to accommodate turbo and cylinder deactivation. Unfortunate both modified heads could crack and the repair is very expensive.

Not just the modified cylinder head for cylinder deactivation on the 2.5L NA which could crack, but the modified automatic transmission only for cylinder deactivation could wear out the lock-up clutch and contaminates the ATF with iron power. Once it happens, it requires at least the torque converter replacement.

So the 2021 CX-5 the head could crack due to a 2-mm thin wall at the cracked area. The ATF is easily to get contaminated by the iron powder due to the excessive wear by new single lock-up clutch. Do you really want to own a 2021 CX-5 with 2.5L NA and CD with such potential major problems?

2.5 NA Cracked Cylinder Head with Oil leaking...How common is this?

Cracked Block (2018 CX-5)

2017~2024 CX-5 Chirp Noise from Automatic Transaxle on 3-4 upshift - Bulletin 05-005/23

This has been an issue for a little bit. The CD cars do not have the same lockup wet clutch set as the regular skyactivs do. They use a more traditional single clutch with a more aggressive material to survive early lockup. Many oems that have tried early lockup with this style of clutch experience significant issues and early wear. GM with the 6L80/90 family are the most notorious for this. The clutch set that turns on going into 4th is a more aggressive friction material that is already high metal content. The iron contaminates that set and is similar to what happens with a brake pad that becomes contaminated and makes a squealing sound.

So if you can find a 2017 Gen-2 CX-5 2.5L NA without CD that should be the way to go.
 
⋯ As far as I know a crack will not brick the engine so we won't be stranded.
This’s not true as when the coolant started to leak out due to the head crack, the engine coolant temperature will arise. If you keep driving the 2.5T will be overheating and the whole enging could get damaged. See how this CX-9 owner prepares the possible head crack on his 2.5T if it ever happens:

My understanding of the sequence of events is that first the cylinder head wall cracks. That allows coolant to leak out the back side of the head, down the block, and to the floor or road. When the coolant gets too low the engine overheats, the cylinder head warps, the head gasket no longer seals as it should, coolant gets into the oil, and the engine is ruined from continued operation with mixed oil & coolant lubing it.

If there is no leakage, we're good. If the leak is caught before the coolant gets too low only a replacement cylinder head is needed. If the leak isn't caught in time and the engine runs hot then a new engine is needed.

I'm carrying a coolant emergency kit in my car. I have a bottle of Bar's Leaks Block Leak Sealant, a gallon of coolant, and some extra water. I frequently look at the coolant level in the overflow tank...always good so far. If it is dropping or if I see the temperature needle rise even just a bit I'll stop and check the coolant level in the overflow tank. If that's dry I'll let the engine cool, take off the radiator cap, check the level, if room add the stop leak and coolant according to the label directions, then head home.
 
This’s not true as when the coolant started to leak out due to the head crack, the engine coolant temperature will arise. If you keep driving the 2.5T will be overheating and the whole enging could get damaged. See how this CX-9 owner prepares the possible head crack on his 2.5T if it ever happens:
Sounds like good advice from CX-9 owner. I always keep an eye on the temp gauge and check coolant overflow tank regularly. Hopefully if it ever happens I will spot it early before it gets worse.
If I take a long trip I will make sure I have a gallon of Mazda coolant in the car along with a gallon of water.
 
Did later model CX-5s get a temp gauge versus the blue/red light?

I know you can monitor temp via OBD but I usually only do that when I am towing with a vehicle
 
⋯ If I take a long trip I will make sure I have a gallon of Mazda coolant in the car along with a gallon of water.
This’s the worst part. If the head cracked during the long road trip, you can’t continue your trip but to find a Mazda dealer to fix the problem. All of those preparations are only to support you to get to the Mazda dealer safely.

IMO most likely the head won’t crack on your 2.5T. But the unknown is a major problem even if you have an extended warranty. I’d worried to take a 2019 CX-5 with 2.5T to a long road trip.

Here’s another sad story that a CX-9 owner got stuck by cracked head while stationed overseas even though he does have Mazda’s CPO warranty:

Cracked cylinder head while stationed overseas (2017 CX-9)
 
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Did later model CX-5s get a temp gauge versus the blue/red light?

I know you can monitor temp via OBD but I usually only do that when I am towing with a vehicle
Not like our Gen-1 CX-5’s, Gen-2 CX-5’s have a coolant temperature gauge can be displayed in dash.
 
to OP:
Please check the belt tensioner of the '17 one you mentioned.

Both of my Mazdas ('16 Mazda6 and '17 CX5) suffers from this infamous issue.
(no other issue at all)

The one on my '16 was replaced since it started to make squeaking noise when I revved engine.
This happened after 1-2 yrs since I found the seepage myself.

I was just informed by the dealer today during full-circle inspection of the '17 CX5 of this seepage.
Dealer wants >$600 for the repair.... That is CA inflation for you nice folks.
It was $400 when the same dealer fixed the '16 Mazda6. (1-2 yrs ago)
No. I am keeping it under watch for now.
 
Did later model CX-5s get a temp gauge versus the blue/red light?

I know you can monitor temp via OBD but I usually only do that when I am towing with a vehicle
My 19 GTR has a temp gauge. My 16 Touring does not, has the blue light.
Not sure if it's based on the trim or if Mazda added it to all trims after a certain model year.
 
I just got my 21 Grand Touring Premium (non-turbo) Mazda certified with 16.5k miles for 26k and negotiated new tires to sweeten the deal. Zero rust, zero dents, and zero curb rash. Got very lucky. Read a lot about the remote possibility of the CD crack issue. Given the .0005 percent chance, and given that mine has a 7 year/100k warranty (from date of mfr), it's a non concern, for me. You could buy a Subaru with a CVT that has a .50 percent chance of failure, or a Nissan with a CVT that has a .75 percent of failure, or just buy a Mazda with a conventional transmission that is solid, and a good motor but has a very remote possibility of the cylinder head issue. But in hearing from several Mazda mechanics, it is reported to be basically a non-issue. Remember, people who experience a problem come right to the internet. People who don't are not as ready to post their delight online right away.

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