Hello! Picked up a 14 CX-9 GT FWD back in July and installed a factory remote start system in it in September. This system is not very difficult to install. If you have ever wired up a car stereo, then you won't have any trouble. If you are really averse to projects like this, then you might have a dealer or pro shop install it. Thought I would share all the pics and tips. First a couple of notes:
Compatibility
The system I installed, 000-8F-N02B, had the instructions shown below, printed on 10/2010. I confirmed this system was applicable to the 2014. I have not gone back to confirm it still fits 2015 models. So if you're considering installing a system in your Mazda, please make sure to confirm your post 2014 model year is compatible with it.
2013+ w/ Perimeter Alarm Systems
According to several sources, this system is not compatible with cars with the "Perimeter Alarm System." I believe this is a base model alarm system for vehicles without keyless entry but I'm not all that familiar with it. So please check with your local dealer to make sure.
Smart Key / Retractable Key
Throughout the instructions, it mentions some differences between "Smart Key" (keyless ignition) and "Retractable Key" ignition systems. So make sure you read the instructions carefully and follow the the procedures specific to your car. This 2014 was a GT and therefore was a "Smart Key" system, although it can also use a traditional type of key also. So when you see the ignition switch, remember that this is still a "Smart Key" system.
Remote FOB
It uses separate FOBs. Would have been nice if there was a single integrated Smart Key Fob Remote from Mazda, but at least these are relatively small... and there are two included. Additional remotes can be added.
Operating Notes
After you start the car via remote start, it will shut down as soon as you press the brake. This is the theft prevention feature. It would be nice if you didn't have to shut down and restart, but it's a small price to pay for a car that is cool in the summer and/or warm in the winter when you climb inside it.
Safety
There are a host of safety concerns to keep in mind with remote start. The most important is probably to never remote start the car in the garage for carbon monoxide concerns. Also be careful with the remote so as not to accidentily remote start the car. Yes, the system is supposed to automatically turn off after 15 minutes. But if for some reason it doesn't, the results could be catastrophic.
Although not remote start related, I have a friend that lost two friends in a garage carbon monoxide accident. The owner left the car idling in the garage to greet a friend who pulled up in the driveway. While chatting, he forgot the car was running and mistakenly closed the garage door with a remote. He eventually went inside the home through the front door. The air conditioner was installed in the garage. It managed to suck the CO in through some small leaks in the ductwork. The friend and his wife were found the next morning by their son.
Here are a few links on remote starts.
Although certainly not necessary, if you have some thin, lightweight mechanics gloves, they will come in handy as there are lots of sharp edges on all of that stamped metal under the dash. I did not use mine, but should have. The back of my right hand looked like a cat had been using it as a scratch post by the time I was done.
Here is my biggest tip for this install. Read through the instructions once or twice before beginning. When you are ready to start, put the wiring harness and modules into position as per the instructions, but don't connect them, plug them, or tape or tie wrap them in permanently yet. Just go through all the steps and get all of the wires into position first. The reason is because you will end up needing to re-route a wire harness here and there. By leaving it unsecured, it will be easier to make changes down the road. You might want to just use some masking tape or electrical tape to temporally secure harnesses where they need to be secured. After everything is in position and you are happy with the routing and are comfortable that nothing is going to caught on the driver's feet, brake pedal, or tilt column, then I would then go back to the beginning and start making the connections: Plug, tap, tie wrap, tape, ect.
Disclaimer: Use this thread at your own risk. I accept no liability...yadda, yadda, yadda!
Subject CX-9
I thought I would include the complete instructions so you have both a simple illustration as well as my pics.
Here goes:
Said wire taps...
Kick Panel Fastener:
Here is the front tabs on the lower dash panel.
Ignition Knob (Smart Key) release buttons.
With a squeeze on the top half of the column cover, you won't need a special tool to split the halves.
When installing the fuses, make sure to depress them all the way down. If not pushed all the way down, then the door will bind or not close.
Here they are pushed down level.
Ok, here is the location for the module: You might as well go ahead an tie-wrap it in from the start but don't cinch them down tight yet so that you can move it up or down a little if needed.
Here is the immobilizer module.
I didn't want to mount the antenna as instructed as it's very visible and looks "aftermarkety." Since I only needed a maximum range of about a 150 feet (the window mount location is supped to give up to 800 feet), I was confident I could install the antenna under the dash and still have acceptable range. So I installed my antenna at the end of the process after everything else was installed. If you want to try my antenna location, you can go ahead an do it now.
After I finished the installation, I drove the car to an empty shopping plaza parking lot to test the range. From the front of the vehicle, I was able to get nearly 400 feet of range. When approaching from the rear of the vehicle, it was closer to 250 feet of range. This was in an empty parking lot. Had it been full of cars, the range might have been slightly less.
Here is where I mounted it... right beside the main module; no need to run the antenna wire across the dash or across the firewall - might as well keep it close by.
Hood Safety Switch
The hood safety switch prevents the remote start from cranking and starting the car if the hood is open. They don't want you accidentally starting the car from the repair shop lobby while the mechanic has his hands down in the engine.
After I read the directions and other literature online, it sounds like cars with a factory alarm system, as this one had, already have a "hood switch" on the hood latch so that the PCM and/or alarm would know when the hood is open. I believe I saw the switch in there. There was no mention of how it would tie into PCM and then to the remote start, but I suspect that it would. So I'm not sure I really needed this "Hood Safety Switch." However, I decided to go ahead an install it anyway and then it would be there If I did need it.
So here goes. "X" marks the corner of the little bracket.
Here is is installed. Although this wire has a protective sleeve on it, I added some wire loom for extra protection.
If you look at "Figure R" in the instructions, it shows the hood switch wires going slightly to the right of where I brought them in (on the left side of the picture.) There was already a little notch in the plastic trim pieces for another harness. It just seemed to make since to use the same path as that existing harness.
There is already a little "pilot hole" in the grommet ready for my "fish" wire.
This is one of the two connecters and wire. I went back later and tie-wrapped both up and out of the way.
I'll try to get the rest up in the next day or two!
Compatibility
The system I installed, 000-8F-N02B, had the instructions shown below, printed on 10/2010. I confirmed this system was applicable to the 2014. I have not gone back to confirm it still fits 2015 models. So if you're considering installing a system in your Mazda, please make sure to confirm your post 2014 model year is compatible with it.
2013+ w/ Perimeter Alarm Systems
According to several sources, this system is not compatible with cars with the "Perimeter Alarm System." I believe this is a base model alarm system for vehicles without keyless entry but I'm not all that familiar with it. So please check with your local dealer to make sure.
Smart Key / Retractable Key
Throughout the instructions, it mentions some differences between "Smart Key" (keyless ignition) and "Retractable Key" ignition systems. So make sure you read the instructions carefully and follow the the procedures specific to your car. This 2014 was a GT and therefore was a "Smart Key" system, although it can also use a traditional type of key also. So when you see the ignition switch, remember that this is still a "Smart Key" system.
Remote FOB
It uses separate FOBs. Would have been nice if there was a single integrated Smart Key Fob Remote from Mazda, but at least these are relatively small... and there are two included. Additional remotes can be added.
Operating Notes
After you start the car via remote start, it will shut down as soon as you press the brake. This is the theft prevention feature. It would be nice if you didn't have to shut down and restart, but it's a small price to pay for a car that is cool in the summer and/or warm in the winter when you climb inside it.
Safety
There are a host of safety concerns to keep in mind with remote start. The most important is probably to never remote start the car in the garage for carbon monoxide concerns. Also be careful with the remote so as not to accidentily remote start the car. Yes, the system is supposed to automatically turn off after 15 minutes. But if for some reason it doesn't, the results could be catastrophic.
Although not remote start related, I have a friend that lost two friends in a garage carbon monoxide accident. The owner left the car idling in the garage to greet a friend who pulled up in the driveway. While chatting, he forgot the car was running and mistakenly closed the garage door with a remote. He eventually went inside the home through the front door. The air conditioner was installed in the garage. It managed to suck the CO in through some small leaks in the ductwork. The friend and his wife were found the next morning by their son.
Here are a few links on remote starts.
Although certainly not necessary, if you have some thin, lightweight mechanics gloves, they will come in handy as there are lots of sharp edges on all of that stamped metal under the dash. I did not use mine, but should have. The back of my right hand looked like a cat had been using it as a scratch post by the time I was done.
Here is my biggest tip for this install. Read through the instructions once or twice before beginning. When you are ready to start, put the wiring harness and modules into position as per the instructions, but don't connect them, plug them, or tape or tie wrap them in permanently yet. Just go through all the steps and get all of the wires into position first. The reason is because you will end up needing to re-route a wire harness here and there. By leaving it unsecured, it will be easier to make changes down the road. You might want to just use some masking tape or electrical tape to temporally secure harnesses where they need to be secured. After everything is in position and you are happy with the routing and are comfortable that nothing is going to caught on the driver's feet, brake pedal, or tilt column, then I would then go back to the beginning and start making the connections: Plug, tap, tie wrap, tape, ect.
Disclaimer: Use this thread at your own risk. I accept no liability...yadda, yadda, yadda!
Subject CX-9
I thought I would include the complete instructions so you have both a simple illustration as well as my pics.
Here goes:
Said wire taps...
Kick Panel Fastener:
Here is the front tabs on the lower dash panel.
Ignition Knob (Smart Key) release buttons.
With a squeeze on the top half of the column cover, you won't need a special tool to split the halves.
When installing the fuses, make sure to depress them all the way down. If not pushed all the way down, then the door will bind or not close.
Here they are pushed down level.
Ok, here is the location for the module: You might as well go ahead an tie-wrap it in from the start but don't cinch them down tight yet so that you can move it up or down a little if needed.
Here is the immobilizer module.
I didn't want to mount the antenna as instructed as it's very visible and looks "aftermarkety." Since I only needed a maximum range of about a 150 feet (the window mount location is supped to give up to 800 feet), I was confident I could install the antenna under the dash and still have acceptable range. So I installed my antenna at the end of the process after everything else was installed. If you want to try my antenna location, you can go ahead an do it now.
After I finished the installation, I drove the car to an empty shopping plaza parking lot to test the range. From the front of the vehicle, I was able to get nearly 400 feet of range. When approaching from the rear of the vehicle, it was closer to 250 feet of range. This was in an empty parking lot. Had it been full of cars, the range might have been slightly less.
Here is where I mounted it... right beside the main module; no need to run the antenna wire across the dash or across the firewall - might as well keep it close by.
Hood Safety Switch
The hood safety switch prevents the remote start from cranking and starting the car if the hood is open. They don't want you accidentally starting the car from the repair shop lobby while the mechanic has his hands down in the engine.
After I read the directions and other literature online, it sounds like cars with a factory alarm system, as this one had, already have a "hood switch" on the hood latch so that the PCM and/or alarm would know when the hood is open. I believe I saw the switch in there. There was no mention of how it would tie into PCM and then to the remote start, but I suspect that it would. So I'm not sure I really needed this "Hood Safety Switch." However, I decided to go ahead an install it anyway and then it would be there If I did need it.
So here goes. "X" marks the corner of the little bracket.
Here is is installed. Although this wire has a protective sleeve on it, I added some wire loom for extra protection.
If you look at "Figure R" in the instructions, it shows the hood switch wires going slightly to the right of where I brought them in (on the left side of the picture.) There was already a little notch in the plastic trim pieces for another harness. It just seemed to make since to use the same path as that existing harness.
There is already a little "pilot hole" in the grommet ready for my "fish" wire.
This is one of the two connecters and wire. I went back later and tie-wrapped both up and out of the way.
I'll try to get the rest up in the next day or two!
