200 whp

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Nootz08

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Hello everyone, new here so let's give this a whirl and see if i get flamed. lol

I'm soon to be(hopefully) the new owner of a 2003.5 Mazdaspeed protege. The car has 160,000 kms(eh) and has a few mods:
-HiBoost FMIC
-Greddy S-type BOV
-Injen CAI
- Vibrant 3" Axleback to 3" Midpipe, no resonator
-Lowered 1.5"

I'm looking to get 200 ponies at the wheels. Just wondering if on these cars it is possible on stock internals because i have been reading quite a bit and seems that these cars can't handle alot of boost. I've read and it seems safe with a few other mods to run between 9-10 PSI but i'm curious if the mods on the car are enough to be safe to run that amount of boost. Obviously a Boost controller and a boost gauge would be a necessity and probably a wideband but just looking for some help here.

Thanks in advance!
 
boost gauge, a decent boost controller (and maybe a new wastegate), an air fuel controller, a wideband air/fuel gauge, and a good tune will get you in the 10psi area safely. you should probably drop your transmission and think about upgrading your clutch and welding your differential. think about a downpipe as well.

search around for EMS solutions, theres a million threads on it... the limited slip and clutch choices as well.
i think you can get 200whp on 9 psi, but someone will have to correct me if im wrong on that.
 
^+1 to everything he said EXCEPT welding your diff

you should never weld a diff thats already been used, they break alot easier that way

im pretty sure i have around 200whp at 8.5psi but i have a few *lol* more mods then you
 
^+1 to everything he said EXCEPT welding your diff

you should never weld a diff thats already been used, they break alot easier that way

im pretty sure i have around 200whp at 8.5psi but i have a few *lol* more mods then you

(boom07) what are you talking about, how we "weld" our diffs doesnt matter how old they are. WE are just welding the case so it doesnt fall off.... theres NO harm in that at all.

and justinlandsdale has a Turbolife FMIC, 2.5" jpipe back with no cat, and 7.5 psi and is 200HP.
 
^+1 to everything he said EXCEPT welding your diff

you should never weld a diff thats already been used, they break alot easier that way

im pretty sure i have around 200whp at 8.5psi but i have a few *lol* more mods then you

Where did you get that information? Im planning on dropping my tranny and welding the lsd for the new gt28rs going on.
 
It all depends on the dyno. I hit 200whp with essentially just a 3" CBE, air-water intercooler, SRI, and 8psi. But that was on a fairly generous dyno.

I suspect if you add an opened up downpipe to your mod list, 200 is pretty attainable at 8-9 psi.
 
Ya it really depends on dyno, I hit 186whp at about 7.5psi on fmic, full 3inch exhaust, 626im and a rich tune on a splitsecond.

Hoping for 200whp this summer too, mam manifold and gt28rs at 8psi. Also lighweight pullys and ac delete!
 
I've got:

Vibrant exhaust
Steedspeed Mani
Injen CAI
SS AFC (untuned for now)
CustomMSP SMIC
Hardpipes

...and will soon have a custom FMIC to replace the Hardpipes and SMIC. I think 200whp is definitely attainable with a good tune but I do not wish to up the boost so I might be a bit shy, but that's fine with me.
 
Where did you get that information? Im planning on dropping my tranny and welding the lsd for the new gt28rs going on.

i heard it around the forums but i guess it was bad info
and im pretty sure that when you weld it (at least this is my understanding) that both wheels turn all the time?
is this true? or am i completely off

im going to get an M factory LSD whenever i get the money, heard it was better then stock

also, im not sure if you know this or not, but dropping the trans by itself without taking the engine out is extremely difficult, almost impossible
 
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i heard it around the forums but i guess it was bad info
and im pretty sure that when you weld it (at least this is my understanding) that both wheels turn all the time?
is this true? or am i completely off
youre completely off.
im going to get an M factory LSD whenever i get the money, heard it was better then stock
definitely true, if you can afford it.
also, im not sure if you know this or not, but dropping the trans by itself without taking the engine out is extremely difficult, almost impossible
ive never heard this (or done it - but planning to in summer), can anyone comment on the accuracy?
 
ive actually taken the engine and trans out so im pretty positive on what i said
i just had no idea how a LSD worked so i figured i would ask lol
 
I'm making 190 WHP on only 4psi My buddy is making 240 WHP on a stock block at 14 PSI
 
to clarify what zuku said, dont turn your boost up to 14psi unless youre ready to replace the motor or know very well what youre doing.
 
it seems that a used LSD has issues being welded properly because the heat and oil it's indured over what ever time seeps into the metal. Thus disallowing a completely solid weld. Would that stop me from having my current LSD welded....NO esp if it's only going to cost a small amount compared to a new welded.
 
i heard it around the forums but i guess it was bad info
and im pretty sure that when you weld it (at least this is my understanding) that both wheels turn all the time?
is this true? or am i completely off

im going to get an M factory LSD whenever i get the money, heard it was better then stock

also, im not sure if you know this or not, but dropping the trans by itself without taking the engine out is extremely difficult, almost impossible

No your completely off, not being an ass but just watch the information that your spreading.

About removing only the tranny, to be honest i have never pulled the motor or tranny on this car, only little honda 1.6l lol. It is a project I was planning on trying. What makes it near impossible? I was going to use this to help.
file:///Users/Justin/Documents/Speed%20Installs!/How%20To:%20Remove:Install%20Tranny%20and%20LSD%20or%20disassemble%20gears%20-%20Mazda%20Forums.webarchive
 
^dude, i was asking a question not spreading info, learn to read :)

and ive heard of people doing it but its ******* difficult to get the engine at the right angle so u can get the trans to slide out
since the clutch is on the engine, you have to get the shaft to slide out of the clutch before you can drop the trans, which means angling the engine
if your going to be moving the engine that much why not remove the whole thing at the same time? ALOT easier, trust me, took me about 20 mins to get it out once everything was un hooked
alot easier to access everything else too, took me less then 5 mins to torque my flywheel,and align the clutch and torque the clutch, BY MYSELF
if you have someone helping you it will be even easier
 
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aright, everybody play nice. In the normal world, "welding a differential" means welding the spider gears, effectively turning it into a posi axel (this is what justanother was talking about). Here in the MSP world, because Mazda can go suck a nut, "welding a differential" means welding the center section to the ring gear so that it doesn't snap there, leaving you stranded.

at 200 to the wheels?

stock power will snap an unwelded, 200 would be fine on a new welded one. Obviously nothing is a guarantee, but I wouldn't expect problems.
 
aright, everybody play nice. In the normal world, "welding a differential" means welding the spider gears, effectively turning it into a posi axel (this is what justanother was talking about). Here in the MSP world, because Mazda can go suck a nut, "welding a differential" means welding the center section to the ring gear so that it doesn't snap there, leaving you stranded.


stock power will snap an unwelded, 200 would be fine on a new welded one. Obviously nothing is a guarantee, but I wouldn't expect problems.

yea i was confused between the 2, thanks for clearing that up
 
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