$200 Hardpipes are ready for orders!!!! Free Shipping for first 10 orders

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As promised hardpipes are finally ready for sale. Attached are what all of our hardpipes will start out as. Everything else is up to you! You pick the powdercoating, you pick the flange, additional cost for aftermarket flanges(currently $5 for greddy), you pick the details.

Why should you buy our pipes?
* Notice that ours are SINGLE pipes, no ugly weld marks, no worries about variation, the CNC machine provides EXACT copies with no welding, just single smooth mandrel bent pipes.

*Our pipes are powdercoated aluminized steel. Not just any powdercoating, the best automated powdercoating available, the same facility Harley Davidson uses for its motorcycle components. This means we can back our product with a LIFETIME WARRANTY, thats right we will stand behind our product for life!

*We only use silicon connectors with industrial t-bolt clamps.

*Unlike our competition we dont charge an enourmous amount for an aftermarket flange additions

*Why wait 3 months for other hardpipes when you can have yours the same month?

*This doesnt require you to wait for a group buy, this is the normal price!

As said before this is what your hardpipes will start their lives as, all the finishing details are up to you!
 

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very nice i want these bad-- what does the silver powder coating look like?? ive got an injen and if the looks will clash im gonna have to go with black...
 
Ok now testing... not really any reason to do dyno testing as we all know that hardpipes do infact increase performance, however due to recent slanders by another company we will be putting our $200 pipes up against their $400 pipes and thats all i will say on that matter until results are ready. Once again there will be a "L" bracket for the sensors. Whew ok I think everything is answered, now its time to get back to getting the test fit done for the midpipes and such so we can get those into production also.


Are you F*#king kidding


I DARE YOU!
Yours are probaly right there with thier $200 doller pipes,but yours aren't even in the same catagory of product as the $400 pipes.Hard pipes have little to due with power increase,they are more of a safty issue,and I'm glad to see you wised up about the hump hoses.I would hate to see peoples endtanks cracking.

Why don't you go to turbohoses SMIC results and read the temp differences there.The testing has allready been done,and steel is risky and allows more heat into the throttle body then even the factory plastic pieces.

I promised my self I would leave your products alone,and this thread alone,but this was an ignorant statement,and you need to know the truth about how and why companies do things the way they do.(2thumbs)
By the way do you know what happens when you try to bully large companies?One of two things happen.either they stop producing all the good quility products people ask for,and they are left with just cheap garage built non-researched products,or they push back and you will have to much comptition,and there is no way for you to keep up with mass production.

If your going to do something,then see to it you do it right.I don't have a problem with your product,but I have a problem with your motives,and your logic.
 
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wicked said:
Ok now testing... not really any reason to do dyno testing as we all know that hardpipes do infact increase performance, however due to recent slanders by another company we will be putting our $200 pipes up against their $400 pipes and thats all i will say on that matter until results are ready. Once again there will be a "L" bracket for the sensors. Whew ok I think everything is answered, now its time to get back to getting the test fit done for the midpipes and such so we can get those into production also.


Are you F*#king kidding


I DARE YOU!
Yours are probaly right there with thier $200 doller pipes,but yours aren't even in the same catagory of product as the $400 pipes.Hard pipes have little to due with power increase,they are more of a safty issue,and I'm glad to see you wised up about the hump hoses.I would hate to see peoples endtanks cracking.

Why don't you go to turbohoses SMIC results and read the temp differences there.The testing has allready been done,and steel is risky and allows more heat into the throttle body then even the factory plastic pieces.

I promised my self I would leave your products alone,and this thread alone,but this was an ignorant statement,and you need to know the truth about how and why companies do things the way they do.(2thumbs)
By the way do you know what happens when you try to bully large companies?One of two things happen.either they stop producing all the good quility products people ask for,and they are left with just cheap garage built non-researched products,or they push back and you will have to much comptition,and there is no way for you to keep up with mass production.

If your going to do something,then see to it you do it right.I don't have a problem with your product,but I have a problem with your motives,and your logic.
fuckign word man..... im getting tired of this "ours are better, yours suck" thing.... very childish..
 
DSM,
Here is a picture of steel vs aluminum. Both tested on the same MSP, my MSP. We prototyped a set of steel pipes about 6 months ago, this was that set.

After driving with steel pipes, the TB-IC pipe was too hot to touch (this is supposed to be the cool pipe) which basically voided out the SMIC totally and heatsoaked everything even quicker. We took the loss and scrapped the pipes.

Do it right the first time, right? We wasted the money on steel so no one else had to.

The aluminum pipes had a cooler 40 degree difference.
 

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SuperSpud said:
fuckign word man..... im getting tired of this "ours are better, yours suck" thing.... very childish..
Wicked is not affiliated with Turbohoses, just a very strong believer.

I am here to help, but DSM, being a AV, needs to leave his comments towards other manufacturers to his garage gossip.
 
********** said:
Wicked is not affiliated with Turbohoses, just a very strong believer.

I am here to help, but DSM, being a AV, needs to leave his comments towards other manufacturers to his garage gossip.

yup,anything submited by me(wicked) is submited out of free will and noligable judgment.Just one person who has put a lot of time and effort to see quality companies make products that performe the way that they should.

I understand what DSM is trying to do here and it dosen't go unrecegnised or unappreciated,but the reality is that there is a whole lot more to making a good product then just making a product that simply looks like it works.thats how things go BOOM!
 
u can always header wrap the pipes.. itll be the same as aluminum.
save the 200 for a BOV.
 
Here is a website comparing aluminum versus a higher quality steel than is being used for these pipes in a thermal setting (firefighting). This outline some of the reasons that aluminum holds heat better than steel. You will lose your cooling effect with steel pipes, period. The only way to get performance gains out of these is to thermal coat them (like ION does with their downpipe). This is very ugly, but it will work. Otherwise, you guys should keep your plastic pipes they hold the heat out much better than the steel ones. This guy is playing on the fact that you guys are uneducated (and maybe he himself is I don't know), and winning.
 

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********** said:
DSM,
Here is a picture of steel vs aluminum. Both tested on the same MSP, my MSP. We prototyped a set of steel pipes about 6 months ago, this was that set.

After driving with steel pipes, the TB-IC pipe was too hot to touch (this is supposed to be the cool pipe) which basically voided out the SMIC totally and heatsoaked everything even quicker. We took the loss and scrapped the pipes.

Do it right the first time, right? We wasted the money on steel so no one else had to.

The aluminum pipes had a cooler 40 degree difference.
i agree that aluminum is the ideal metal to use. on the test car for my hardpipes we only noticed 15-20 degree change from stock pipes (but hard to exact due differnt times of day tested) after we put header tape on it was reduced to alittle over 10 degrees...now 10 degrees isnt bad...this was all based on results using a autometer intake temp gauge..what did you guys use to check temps? did you only check the temp of the metal or the air inside?
 
byohndspeed said:
i agree that aluminum is the ideal metal to use. on the test car for my hardpipes we only noticed 15-20 degree change from stock pipes (but hard to exact due differnt times of day tested) after we put header tape on it was reduced to alittle over 10 degrees...now 10 degrees isnt bad...this was all based on results using a autometer intake temp gauge..what did you guys use to check temps? did you only check the temp of the metal or the air inside?
Your pipes gained 10 degrees of air temperature even after they were heat wrapped? If that is true, then you just wasted 10 degrees of your ICs work. Why put something on that is worse than stock? I could care less what you guys spend your money on because I'm not going to get it. These vendors are all trying to make money. **********, DSMconvert, Turbohoses ect. have to make money or they wouldn't be doing this. DSM saying he is one of us is BS because he is just trying to sell his product. No vendor is going to take a loss just to make you happy. The best thing for all of us non-vendors to do is educate each other so we don't buy useless things or get ripped off. If you want just looks and don't care about performance, then buy the mild steel pipes with the chrome plating. If you don't care about looks just about performance, then buy the mild steel piping and get it thermal coated. If you want the best of both looks and performance, save the extra money and buy turbohoses pipes. Plain logic. You are not getting the same thing, so you have to look at your goals before you make a purchase. For me, buying $400 pipes that are useful is a better deal than $200 pipes that are useless for my goals. Your goals may be different, so plan accordingly.
 
ok this is getting out of hand, please direct your debates to another thread, this is a gb thread not a discussion thread, as indicated in my last post I've decided the best way to go about this is to put all 3 sets on a dyno and get hard numbers and then go from there...once I have the dyno numbers I will decided if i need to make an apology or if my claims were supported. Regarding jurgs comments, of course we have to make money, do you expect us to work for free? Any vendor on here will vouch that these products dont fabricate, produce, and box themselves, somebody has to do it. All I claim to do is charge a reasonable amount for the amount of work done. I am infact "one of you guys" b/c I do have the msp and I do modify it. Now if you can make any product cheaper have at it, but the majority of the people on here do not have the 75K CNC mandrel bender, a 2500 industrial TIG welder, nor the knowledge or wholesale connections to make things they need. Ok I'm done. So out of respect I hope everyone, especially fellow vendors, will see that this is not the thread for discussion.
 
IMO the more more vendors the better. It gives Protege owners more options to choose from. I'm glad we have someone like DSM supporting our community. (thumb) Free Bump for DSM and his products.

-Alan
 
ARunto said:
IMO the more more vendors the better. It gives Protege owners more options to choose from. I'm glad we have someone like DSM supporting our community. (thumb) Free Bump for DSM and his products.

-Alan
Agreed. I would have never jumped into this arguement if he hadn't started the "We scared them cheaper" thread. It made it sound like he was selling the same parts for half the price, when they are not the same parts. I have said all I needed to say I won't clog your thread any more.
 
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