100K MP5 Club

I'm about to introduce my son to this club... depends on what the insurance company totals his previous car for. Only one around here in his price range has 177k on it.
 
I got 160k miles on it and it runs fine! Just needs a little brake work and I think some new struts up front, but I wanna replace them all around!
 
Found one with just around 160k for $3400. Trying to set up date and time to look at it. She's the original owner and the car is a duplicate of the one I used to have (midnight blue).

BTW, if anyone in the Houston area wants to sell theirs, I'm in the market but only have $4k max to spend.
 
@ 128,000 miles & I drive over 350 miles weekly in crappy ass Miami traffic...Still QUICK THO!!!
 
Last of the MT run '03.5. No rust or rattles at 163K+.

Repairs/replacements: 1 wheel bearing, 1 timing belt, 3 sets pads, 2 coil packs/plug wires.

Engine: 4-2-1 header, Magnaflow CB/resonator, single Imco hi-flow cat; light pulleys; OBTB; Injen;
NGK iridium, flashed ECU. Suspension/wheels/tires: MSP springs, Tokico Blues, ADR Battle 17/7s, Conti Extreme Contact DW 215/45/17s.

Quick enough, handles superbly, dead reliable and driven hard.

Dynoed 117 WHP (97 stock), 33+ mpg, one quart Valvoline syn/1500-2000 miles. A keeper.
 
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Rolled over 152K last night....original belts and three out of four brake calipers are original.
 
215k. Still original engine, trans, clutch. Replaced the pads twice, once at 91k, the 2nd time around 210k ish. Original calipers and rotors. Ummm... other than basic maintenance I havent done much else. It eats wheel bearing and door lock actuators like a mofo..

Oooh also still running the original stock struts on lowering springs.. No squeeks or rattles :)

That's pretty damn impressive, I take it you do a lot of highway driving?
 
Yeah, lol. 500-600 miles a week.. I commute 51 miles each way for work...:)

Provided there isn't much traffic I can see that as being quite pleasant :)

BTW, I mean to ask you Canada guys what is that stuff you use for rust? I found the first spot on my P5 (inner wheelhouse by right side engine mount) and i want to fix it ASAP.

I certainly don't speak for all of Canada, but I think your best option is POR-15. Rust-primer+bondo just doesn't work, a year later the rust will come back. However you might be able to get away with it because your climate is better (ie. the rust will take 2 years to come back).

Not surprisingly I have rust in that same spot, except in my case you can see the wheel through it. The rust probably started on the other side so it would be pointless to just fix what you see in the engine bay, you have to attack it from inside the wheel-well.

I'd also recommend removing the fender liner and having a look at the frame in that area, you might have more than you think to fix. Check out mine: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...s-your-rust!&p=5775978&viewfull=1#post5775978
 
215k. Still original engine, trans, clutch. Replaced the pads twice, once at 91k, the 2nd time around 210k ish. Original calipers and rotors. Ummm... other than basic maintenance I havent done much else. It eats wheel bearing and door lock actuators like a mofo..

Funny you say that because I'm at almost 150k boosted right now, got one bad wheel bearing, which was replaced about three years ago, and my passenger and rear driver's side lock actuators are done for lol. Engine runs great, but I think the clutch cylinders will need a replacement following with the clutch in the near future.
 
My 02 needs one actuator....The 03 was going through wheel bearings-only on the front, think it's had 4-5 now..... The Tokico Illuminas that I bought on the first run group buy here are still great-and have 240,000 miles on them.... The springs have 300,000 miles on them. Put the clutch in for the hell of it at 250 something..... FIRST TIMING BELT at 209K! Still looked brand new.. The tensioner pulley was a little noisy. Original motors and transmissions in both cars. Except half the case in the 03.....I had to replace that when I totalled it at 177K.

If I wasn't a drunk angry person the car would look better on the outside.... Inside looks nearly new. Leather is perfect still- Except for the MSP shift knob.
 
about to be at 180k and i wanna boost it. i guess ill wait til motor needs rebuild to do so :/
 
Wow...started this thread in 06?? Have 156k now. I did have to swap front wheel bearings recently. I also have some oil smoke under heavy acceleration. I claim it just helps lubricate the valves right? Eats about a quart every 3k. Have to note that the OBX header is still intact after 50k though its not very pretty lookin any more.
 
155k, picking her up today rom the shop:
timing belt
tensioner
water pump
brakes all the way around inclduing calipers
oil change
 
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