10 psi DD?!?!

I'm over 225 on stock turbo? Where do you come up with this s***?


yudkib said:
10psi is generally though of as the "safe, conservative number". you can still wreck your motor from things like oil starvation, but its not usually the power that kills it at that point. you could probably go to 12 since you'll have timing control on the haltech, but at 12psi, a bad tune will blow it. invest in a wideband/boost gauge if you haven't already, and a knocklight if you want to go over 10psi. i dont know why no one uses them, but it seems like a smart investment.

and look up 505zoom's build for inspiration, hes got the stock block record @277whp. you won't get over 225 without changing to a bigger turbo, but you should get around there on 10psi since your mod list is impressive. what are you using for boost control?
Click to expand...
 
ya i think the t25 can produce up to 250 to 270 hp.. 225 should be reachable. what about 230 to 240 whp on stock internals and stock turbo? what boost would be needed to run to get that and mods
 
This was something slo03msp posted...

14-15psi stock turbo. Custom 3" intake catless 2.5" exhaust with corksport s-pipe. 262whp. It's tuned to a steady 12.1-12.3 afr. And an ion fmic. I think that's all my actual go fast mods. That's kind of silly. I'm making 260 whp on a fmic and 2.5" exhaust and a thunder turbo mani. Stock intake I have vics&vvts or whatever they are. Stock radiator stock t-stat stock coils and wires. Stock fpr, denso ik22 plugs
 
the t25 is a joke if you want to make more than 225 whp. the end. its a ******* hair dryer at that point. read a ******* turbo map and say i'm pulling s*** out of my ass then.
 
and by the way, if you want to run 14 psi on the unichip/AEM boost solenoid, enjoy the short ride.

and do me a big favor: link me two more build threads (i guess i believe 719, so two other ones) where they were stock motor and stock turbo and made over 225whp. there's not many of them. that turbo is too small for a 2.0L, it's already running out of flow capacity at 10psi, and its useless at like 14+. its sized more for a 1.8.
 
I'm afraid i don't see the point of going to a full standalone and all your other mods listed (speaking to OP) just to run.... 10psi and make 220-230whp. That's a lot of cash to still be slow. If you're serious about wanting to have the car move out nicely, i'd save that cash and put it towards a built motor fund, or start looking into BP or KL swaps. With how fragile this hunk of crap motor is (and it's been fragile since 1992), i'd be more worried about having money on hand for when, not if, the motor blows, and a game plan to get it back up and running as quickly as possible.

Just my 2 cents.
 
slo03.5msp said:
I'm over 225 on stock turbo? Where do you come up with this s***?
Click to expand...

Theory world...the place where those who can't get it done often go to validate their flawed thinking.
I don't think he even has an MSP any more and when he did I bet it ran like s***.
 
Honestly guys, I don't ever plan to push 300whp in this car. Just asking for it from what everyone says. Especially when it's my daily driver. Am interested about what the stock turbo can really do, though.
 
The stock turbo is a joke. Look at the compressor map. If you want 230+ whp the stock turbo needs to go.

Just for reference, on my T3 60 trim, I did 221WHP on 10psi and 190whp on 7psi. That was with a low compression built engine though. Try making those numbers on the stock T25.
 
I guarantee you I can turn down the boost 4lbs make 40 less whp. The stock t25 with a good fmic is still efficient past 10. This is why people whom have good info stop coming because of this s***. And if you really don't believe me go find some old 2nd gen dsm owner who was running 20lbs on their stock journal bearing t25. Making well over 225whp. Clearly if you have not done it, can't read compressor maps, haven't talked to Garrett/air research you should stfu because you clearly don't know what you're talking about. If 14psi was so inefficient why are my intake temps fine? Whatever clearly since I'd be the one making well over what you say I cannot I guess that makes me the winner.
 
471171-3comp_t.jpg
 
slo03.5msp said:
I guarantee you I can turn down the boost 4lbs make 40 less whp. The stock t25 with a good fmic is still efficient past 10. This is why people whom have good info stop coming because of this s***. And if you really don't believe me go find some old 2nd gen dsm owner who was running 20lbs on their stock journal bearing t25. Making well over 225whp. Clearly if you have not done it, can't read compressor maps, haven't talked to Garrett/air research you should stfu because you clearly don't know what you're talking about. If 14psi was so inefficient why are my intake temps fine? Whatever clearly since I'd be the one making well over what you say I cannot I guess that makes me the winner.
Click to expand...

It's not a good idea for said DSM owner to be running 20psi on a T25, either. The compressor flow charts distributed by Garrett themselves prove that. It's your dime when your motor blows. (Not if, but when.) But don't go around telling other people that it's just fine to do it. These cars blow up enough without misinformation being spread.

PS: There exists more than just one "kind" of T25.
 
Buy the J&S safeguard in the fs thread and find out the limits if your not planning to forge! Or at least a turbo xs knocklight

I ran 13psi with my IHI VF-22 (close in spool and cfm to a 28rs) on stock block all bolt-ons with a Haltech and J&S pulling timing past 10psi at near 250whp for 3yrs WITH A J&S SAFEGUARD MONITORING THINGS!
 
slo03.5msp said:
I guarantee you I can turn down the boost 4lbs make 40 less whp. The stock t25 with a good fmic is still efficient past 10. This is why people whom have good info stop coming because of this s***. And if you really don't believe me go find some old 2nd gen dsm owner who was running 20lbs on their stock journal bearing t25. Making well over 225whp. Clearly if you have not done it, can't read compressor maps, haven't talked to Garrett/air research you should stfu because you clearly don't know what you're talking about. If 14psi was so inefficient why are my intake temps fine? Whatever clearly since I'd be the one making well over what you say I cannot I guess that makes me the winner.
Click to expand...

What are your intake temps? I want degrees measured directly in the manifold. Not just "fine". At that boost level the turbo is way outside it's optimum range, and is going to be blowing hot air. Methanol injection be damned.
 
Maxx Mazda said:
What are your intake temps? I want degrees measured directly in the manifold. Not just "fine". At that boost level the turbo is way outside it's optimum range, and is going to be blowing hot air. Methanol injection be damned.
Click to expand...

what do you mean by "methonal injection be damned?"
i use it...
 
Even at 14psi meth won't keep up with cooling the intake charge...

Just to clarify

14psi in little spurts maybe no problem...but for instance on a hot ass Texas afternoon with a heatsoaked everything and a long mash on the gas 14psi aint what it used to be on a nice cool chicago morning. EGT's skyrocket quick!
 
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