10 psi DD?!?!

oh ok... hmm. i will have to measure my intake temps and see what its like. luckilly, i live in CO so it doesnt really get very hot.
 
http://www.enginelogics.com/cmaps.html.

Here do the math. I'm right about 22/lb min on flow and I run 2bar 14.3 psi. Which if you can read our map puts me at about 70% efficiency. I have one of the best bar and plate cores on the market and when I was keeping track of intake temps they were never higher than about 150 degrees. You have to remember that I live in a very cool humid climate though.
 
needmspspeed said:
alright so as the title says im curious if anyone has and how long they succeeded at running 10 psi on the stock turbo and stock motor?
I am only gonna do this with the following mods
turbolife fmic
aem cai (no bov i want to turkey until however long i decide enough is enough)
3" pope downpipe
vibrant exhaust from the dp back
505 intake manifold
haltech standalone (hopefully depends on money)

really would not like to throw a rod, lol who would? but id like to hit the 210 to 225 whp mark which i think is relatively possible
Click to expand...

Definitely an attainable power goal with those mods. So.. I don't think the OP is planning to run 14psi. If somebody is running that daily, you are a lucky man. Statistics show that the average 2.0L FSDE does not play too well with boost and we are all fortunate to have motors that are not turning into swiss cheese... yet. Does that pretty much cover it?
 
concealer404 said:
I'm afraid i don't see the point of going to a full standalone and all your other mods listed (speaking to OP) just to run.... 10psi and make 220-230whp. That's a lot of cash to still be slow. If you're serious about wanting to have the car move out nicely, i'd save that cash and put it towards a built motor fund, or start looking into BP or KL swaps. With how fragile this hunk of crap motor is (and it's been fragile since 1992), i'd be more worried about having money on hand for when, not if, the motor blows, and a game plan to get it back up and running as quickly as possible.

Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

if you have read what i posted i am getting my bolt ons done first than saving up for a build. typically how it works, idk. secondly there are not many tuning devices for the msp. i could always get an ss afc but if i go forged i want something a little better.
 
lizardman743 said:
Honestly guys, I don't ever plan to push 300whp in this car. Just asking for it from what everyone says. Especially when it's my daily driver. Am interested about what the stock turbo can really do, though.
Click to expand...

2003.5mazdaspeed or whatever his name is, the dude from spain reached like 280 whp on the stock turbo but he was forged with a lengthy mod list. he has a thread about it if someone doesnt believe me go look it up.

Maxx Mazda said:
The stock turbo is a joke. Look at the compressor map. If you want 230+ whp the stock turbo needs to go.

Just for reference, on my T3 60 trim, I did 221WHP on 10psi and 190whp on 7psi. That was with a low compression built engine though. Try making those numbers on the stock T25.
Click to expand...

i plan on gettin a dyno this summer after the mods are on and am running 10 psi. i guess we will see how it turns out.
 
not every car is the same but justinlandslide made 210 whp with these mods
"Turbolife FMIC kit w/hardpipes
-Injen CAI
-TurboXS BOV
-Circuit Sports 2.5" Catless Midpipe
-2.5" Straight Pipe (No Muffler, Greddy Resonator)
-Hallman Pro MBC set @ 7psi"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4IPc0X-PTA

im going to be running 3 more psi, have a 3" TBE and a 505
 
yes. to answer your question bluntly. with your mods, and 10 psi, you can reliably run the car daily. just keep an eye on oil pressure and dont drive too crazzy.
 
slo03.5msp said:
http://www.enginelogics.com/cmaps.html.

Here do the math. I'm right about 22/lb min on flow and I run 2bar 14.3 psi. Which if you can read our map puts me at about 70% efficiency. I have one of the best bar and plate cores on the market and when I was keeping track of intake temps they were never higher than about 150 degrees. You have to remember that I live in a very cool humid climate though.
Click to expand...

150 degrees?! In a cool climate even? Jesus man, that's pretty hot. ESPESIALLY with meth injection!

My intake temps don't even hit that at 32psi! With methanol and your "good" intrrcooler there's no reason not to have temps slightly above ambient.
 
needmspspeed said:
if you have read what i posted i am getting my bolt ons done first than saving up for a build. typically how it works, idk. secondly there are not many tuning devices for the msp. i could always get an ss afc but if i go forged i want something a little better.
Click to expand...


I've been doing this for a long while.... but this is the first time i've heard that that route is "typically how it works." Oh well, no worries.

I'm aware there aren't many tuning devices for an MSP, and piggybacks SUCK anyways. My point was just that it would be more logical to build a motor first and accumulate everything, but NOT install until built motor was dropped in the car. But, it's your car. Good luck! :)
 
Maxx Mazda said:
150 degrees?! In a cool climate even? Jesus man, that's pretty hot. ESPESIALLY with meth injection!

My intake temps don't even hit that at 32psi! With methanol and your "good" intrrcooler there's no reason not to have temps slightly above ambient.
Click to expand...


+1. I don't think i've ever logged above 120 degrees on my car. (Caveat, it's not an MSP, but the same rules apply) When i hit 120, i was pushing 25psi on a Supra CT26, WELL outside it's maximum efficiency range.
 
concealer404 said:
I've been doing this for a long while.... but this is the first time i've heard that that route is "typically how it works." Oh well, no worries.

I'm aware there aren't many tuning devices for an MSP, and piggybacks SUCK anyways. My point was just that it would be more logical to build a motor first and accumulate everything, but NOT install until built motor was dropped in the car. But, it's your car. Good luck! :)
Click to expand...

ok well in your earlier post you didnt understand why i would get a standalone, nor your stating piggybacks suck which is true so what is out there that i dont know about? secondly, not many i know build a motor as they get it, they mod around it and see where they can get than the build or they blow it than they build. in the msp world i would highly suggest building first cause you can get your parts for farely cheap, 2200 off crossover. but i was smart and bought most of my parts used so i saved a ton of money. and at the time i didnt have the 3k, or 2 months to build a motor, i dont have any other car. if i had that money or time it would have been done. i hope to get that done in the next year but for now i just wanna see where i can get on the stock motor and turbo with the best bolt ons possible for this car. and find a boost level that provides reliability but a little bit of kick too.
 
needmspspeed said:
ok well in your earlier post you didnt understand why i would get a standalone, nor your stating piggybacks suck which is true so what is out there that i dont know about? secondly, not many i know build a motor as they get it, they mod around it and see where they can get than the build or they blow it than they build. in the msp world i would highly suggest building first cause you can get your parts for farely cheap, 2200 off crossover. but i was smart and bought most of my parts used so i saved a ton of money. and at the time i didnt have the 3k, or 2 months to build a motor, i dont have any other car. if i had that money or time it would have been done. i hope to get that done in the next year but for now i just wanna see where i can get on the stock motor and turbo with the best bolt ons possible for this car. and find a boost level that provides reliability but a little bit of kick too.
Click to expand...

I said i didn't understand why you would bother with a standalone on a stock motor, before you had another built motor on hand. Logically, it would make sense to address the weaknesses of the car before trying to make more power. (Yes, i realize that the factory tune on these things suck.)

The bolded part should show you that you should leave it alone until you have a backup built motor on hand. An idiot like me can get away with doing dumb stuff to my daily driver, because i have four backup cars. Modding your only car that has multiple widely-known weaknesses without FIRST accumulating a "plan B" motor isn't the most logical way to go.

Basically what i'm trying to say is do it right, or just don't do it. But at the end of the day, it's your car, your wallet, do what fits what you want the best. I'm only here giving an opinion based on experience, which may or may not help you avoid a tough situation. :)

Good luck! :D
 
shane02pro5 said:
Believe it or not the mazda tune is even more weak than the motor!!
Click to expand...

I believe it. (I have a 90 MX6 GT) But fixing the tune makes more power, puts more stress on the motor that was a pile of s*** back in 1992, let alone a decade later. :p
 
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