Grounding Cylinder Head Test Results (2024 CX-5 Turbo)

[jadmt]

There must be something to this, as Mazda has equipped the CX-5 with a dedicated engine grounding wire from the factory for many years. Pics are posted previously in this thread. Mazda wouldn't waste money if it didn't do anything, and before you spend $ check your car to see if it's already there. It's on the passenger side bolted to the strut tower. Can't miss it!

I know that is why I don't believe another ground will make a difference and if it does where is it run? most cars have several grounds but I was reading it that Al CX5 was saying an additional ground(s) would make an improvement.

 

[AL Cx5]

There must be something to this, as Mazda has equipped the CX-5 with a dedicated engine grounding wire from the factory for many years. Pics are posted previously in this thread. Mazda wouldn't waste money if it didn't do anything, and before you spend $ check your car to see if it's already there. It's on the passenger side bolted to the strut tower. Can't miss it!

I have put a ground cable in parallel with a small OEM ground and picked up power, better FE on many Toyotas. A 4 or 8 gauge cable. The finer the strands the better it works.

 

[AL Cx5]

I edited the passenger side photos. Nothing drastic. Also grounded our throttle body. This worth the effort, even on turbos.

Please reset your adaptive after installing so the car can learn how the new found torque particularly at partial throttle and low RPM.

Thread 'Transmission reset/relearn procedure for 2016 Mazda CX-5' https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/transmission-reset-relearn-procedure-for-2016-mazda-cx-5.123884118/

I confirmed I'm using (2) 4 gauge cables, 24" to 28". Mine are over 30" long. I had these left over in a box.

I put these on the day after we took delivery, 22 months ago. I didn't measure any of the cables. I had no idea some folks might do this too.

Drivers side, body is connected where the battery grounds. Engine side is where Mazda put some tiny grounds.

I have a clamp DC volt meter confirming the system "likes" these locations. I didn't start the car for this photo. It normally shows from 5 to 10 amps when it's on the correct locations or if the car will respond to more grounds.

You can see the Filter Minder on the filter box. I used this to determine the air box inlet is under sized at least for a turbo at wot. I made second air inlet with a spring loaded damper. It only allows air into the air box under hard acceleration. Without the damper low end torque fell off. FE went way down as well. It's hidden in the fender well. Keeps the engine bay looking stock. I posted this mod in more detail.

The blue silicon elbow has a turning vane in it. This pic shows the transition after the elbow is a choke point. In a perfect world, the transition would be on the other side. I did before and after partial throttle logs to confirm this mod works. I applied turning vane knowledge we learned on our Cummins diesels. I need to clean up this a bit if I'm going to post more pics!

Here is the passenger side. I used star washers to help the cables bite into the mounts for a better connection.

You can see the AC mod, insulating the high pressure side. Cools down faster in our Alabama heat. Some day I'll use a hydrocarbon refrigerant for much cold AC and 40% lower pressure. I have hydrocarbon refrigerant in my black truck. Ice cold, 45F air. I've posted this but it may have been deleted. Maybe a little to advanced for that particular moderator. If you are interested, I'll post a link from a Dodge Cummins forum.

We have a DRTuned ECU T1 tune. LOVE it. We are finishing logs and fine tuning a T2 version. Like WOW, this is how Mazda should have tuned these turbos. We have about 380 HP and we are getting 1 to 2 better MPG than T1. T1 got about 2 MPG better FE than stock. We have a "socker Mom" partial throttle. When I want to get sporty, slip it into Sport mode and release the beast.

After we finish T2 tuning, our "SPORT" crossover will be complete.

I hope these pics encourage a few to do this simple modification and report back.

Note NA throttle body will attach to the body at different place. I'll have a NA 2021 in the shop and take pictures...

 

[jadmt]

@AL Cx5 if you did this the day after you took delivery of a brand new car how do you know your really are getting any improvement?

 

[ADS-B]

I don't think an extra ground cable/bonding strap will harm the car. If anything, you add another low resistance path for the electric systems and it will reduce the electrical noise. Why Mazda didn't install 5 cables or whatever , they installed just one or two? Maybe because in the developing and testing faze of the car their engineers established some criteria to follow, a set of minimum requirements to meet the specs and it has been concluded ( probably - my theory) that one or two grounding cables/bonding straps are enough to meet those requirements.

 

[AL Cx5]

@AL Cx5 if you did this the day after you took delivery of a brand new car how do you know your really are getting any improvement?

I have a section of interstate I use for partial throttle tests. I set CC at the same speed on each test. Log boost and Engine Load. It's easy to disconnect the grounds near an entrance ramp and make another test run.

I forward the logs to my computer CSV file, plot the data and lay the graphs over each other, average Engine load and such. I belive I shared this data on the this post..Ill have to look.

I have done 50 or 60 tests over the years, maybe more. Mostly on mods on my Diesel truck. As I have mentioned, we increased FE from 18 to 30 mpg with bolt on mods, tuning and conscious driving. Probably the best FE for a 3rd Gen Ram Cummins. I used this test area to confirm or not a modification.

I did tests on intake manifolds for my truck because the manufactures only give wot data that is meaningless to most. I changed out 4 different intakes and 2 grid heaters on the side of the highway 2 days. I learned alot about intakes and heater grids. My intake design is the most FE. Nobody has gotten close to 30 mpg, yet.

I've grounded several hundred cars back when I had a hobby ground biz. I can tell if the clamp amp meter is reading 5 amps or more if it works. MY Mazda falls into the working catagory.

I did this for my rides, CX 5, Ram, and race car. I have no interest selling anything to do with grounding cars. Nor deal with others who need 50 or 60 cars all with their exact trim before doing this cheap and simple mod.

For this reason, I present the info but will not go down the explanation and proving rabbit hole again. Take a chance and do it on your ride and be the judge....or move on....

 

[CrazyHippie]

I know that is why I don't believe another ground will make a difference and if it does where is it run? most cars have several grounds but I was reading it that Al CX5 was saying an additional ground(s) would make an improvement.

Thanks for clarifying! Bigger ground wires in additional locations may help. Apologies for being slow to pick up on this.

 

[CrazyHippie]

I confirmed I'm using (2) 4 gauge cables, 24" to 28". Mine are over 30" long. I had these left over in a box.

I put these on the day after we took delivery, 22 months ago. I didn't measure any of the cables. I had no idea some folks might do this too.

Drivers side, body is connected where the battery grounds. Engine side is where Mazda put some tiny grounds.

I have a clamp DC volt meter confirming the system "likes" these locations. I didn't start the car for this photo. It normally shows from 5 to 10 amps when it's on the correct locations or if the car will respond to more grounds.

View attachment 380055

View attachment 380054

View attachment 380053
You can see the Filter Minder on the filter box. I used this to determine the air box inlet is under sized at least for a turbo at wot. I made second air inlet with a spring loaded damper. It only allows air into the air box under hard acceleration. Without the damper low end torque fell off. FE went way down as well. It's hidden in the fender well. Keeps the engine bay looking stock. I posted this mod in more detail.

The blue silicon elbow has a turning vane in it. This pic shows the transition after the elbow is a choke point. In a perfect world, the transition would be on the other side. I did before and after partial throttle logs to confirm this mod works. I applied turning vane knowledge we learned on our Cummins diesels. I need to clean up this a bit if I'm going to post more pics!

Here is the passenger side. I used star washers to help the cables bite into the mounts for a better connection.

You can see the AC mod, insulating the high pressure side. Cools down faster in our Alabama heat. Some day I'll use a hydrocarbon refrigerant for much cold AC and 40% lower pressure. I have hydrocarbon refrigerant in my black truck. Ice cold, 45F air. I've posted this but it may have been deleted. Maybe a little to advanced for that particular moderator. If you are interested, I'll post a link from a Dodge Cummins forum.

We have a DRTuned ECU T1 tune. LOVE it. We are finishing logs and fine tuning a T2 version. Like WOW, this is how Mazda should have tuned these turbos. We have about 380 HP and we are getting 1 to 2 better MPG than T1. T1 got about 2 MPG better FE than stock. We have a "socker Mom" partial throttle. When I want to get sporty, slip it into Sport mode and release the beast.

After we finish T2 tuning, our "SPORT" crossover will be complete.

I hope these pics encourage a few to do this simple modification and report back.

View attachment 380058
View attachment 380057

View attachment 380056

Thank you very much for this! Now I get it! More substantial wires sort of in parallel to the factory ones. You say 24 and 28 inch will do the job, in 4 gauge. Perfect photos! It certainly can't hurt to add these - very low cost, and a bonus of getting under the hood with wrenches for a little while. Once and done.

Your intake, A/C and tuning mods are also quite ingenious.

 

[AL Cx5]

Thank you very much for this! Now I get it! More substantial wires sort of in parallel to the factory ones. You say 24 and 28 inch will do the job, in 4 gauge. Perfect photos! It certainly can't hurt to add these - very low cost, and a bonus of getting under the hood with wrenches for a little while. Once and done.

Your intake, A/C and tuning mods are also quite ingenious.

Thank you, not much if any of this is original thinking. More like applying knowledge.

IF you come over to the Dark Side, please post up your results. I hope you have some A to B comparison...

A funny story, I add grounds to my daughter old Camry hopping to save her some commuting costs. I asked her if she could tell a difference. She said no but she could pass cars now that before she couldn't! So there are NO FE gains if one uses the new found power. LOL

 

[N7turbo]

Sure I'll add some wires to my CX-5 so I can pass anyone I want on the highway.

Lambos are gonna be MAD hatin'.

 

[BoomerZoomr]

I let mine show, so Lambos don’t embarrass themselves!

 

[SparkYellow]

AL you had me at the first paragraph of post #1 (and #63). I must have come across your thread before but cylinder head sounds deep. That last pic got me curious. Definitely my next project.

 

[AL Cx5]

AL you had me at the first paragraph of post #1 (and #63). I must have come across your thread before but cylinder head sounds deep. That last pic got me curious. Definitely my next project.

Our chassis dyno tests show this mod makes about the same power as a CAI at wot. But a store bought cai looses partial throttle torque and FE. My tests on two vehicles confirmed partial throttle like a DD lose. Not so with grounds...

Please post up with pics and if your butt dyno can tell a difference...FE should increase 1 to 2 mpg if you keep your foot out of it.

 

[BoomerZoomr]

Manufacturers seem to be fighting tooth and nail to get their MPG numbers up… investing all that money in start/stop technology and cylinder deactivation. Why wouldn’t they install a couple wires to net such an easy gain?

 

[AL Cx5]

Manufacturers seem to be fighting tooth and nail to get their MPG numbers up… investing all that money in start/stop technology and cylinder deactivation. Why wouldn’t they install a couple wires to net such an easy gain?

Back when we had Chrysler they increase some of their grounds after my Hemi ground biz took off. They didn't do all of the grounds I provided in the kits.

This is an age old question from imports, Honda, Toyota and Domestics. I have three ground cables on my efi/electronic controller trans race car. Grounds are on all serious drag cars these days. We don't carry one extra pound on these cars. Ever item is there either for safety or making it go faster.

My 5.9 Cummins and dumb 48re trans even responded to grounds. My friend in Vegas confirmed with grounds on his Ram and Toyota. He thinks I a wizard. I just copied what the imports were doing in Japan 15 to 20 years ago.

 

[SparkYellow]

I started looking around and saw this wire on the passenger side of the bay that goes from a bracket on the head to a bracket by the strut tower. Also found two holes on the back of the engine, the last picture shows one of them. If that's on the head, then it's a pretty easy task. Two is better than one? Ready to order wires.

 

[AL Cx5]

I started looking around and saw this wire on the passenger side of the bay that goes from a bracket on the head to a bracket by the strut tower. Also found two holes on the back of the engine, the last picture shows one of them. If that's on the head, then it's a pretty easy task. Two is better than one? Ready to order wires.

Please check out edited post 63 for revised pictures.

I made a correction on the passenger side and Throttle Body today.

I didn't remember putting 2 cables to the heads on the Pass side. Its been almost 2 years since installing grounds..

Today I moved a cable to the throttle body. Darn turbos stick the TB in a difficult spot and require removal of a fussy connection.

I reset the adaptive. My wife complained the throttle was too responsive. Yesterday I had been at wot several times to get a log for the tuner. The adaptive remembered and thought we wanted a hot rod....

I suggest everyone reset the adaptive after installing grounds. I reset the adaptive on a friend's CX5 after changing spark plugs.

Thread 'Transmission reset/relearn procedure for 2016 Mazda CX-5' https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/transmission-reset-relearn-procedure-for-2016-mazda-cx-5.123884118/

I reset the adaptive after installing the first tune revision. It was pretty smooth at light throttle.

Now with a ground directly on the TB and reset the adaptive. Throttle and shifts are silky smooth, like it doesn't have a 380 HP tune in it. I didn't hammer it so it will be smooth for my wife. One 50% throttle confirmed it still has the T2 380 HP tune!

If we hadden revived this thread, I may not have ever put a ground on the TB.

Wee!

 

[SparkYellow]

Will read the revised #63 in a bit. Found a few things in my tool box so tried this for now. Is it ok to use the same point to ground different wires? I wasn't sure because the other strut tower bracket offers multiple holes.

 

[SparkYellow]

The grounding kits on Amazon usually come with 5 cables, 4 sets of nut/bolt/washers and a bracket with 4 mounting points. The cables look kinda thin though.

I found a few more sets of these cables from my solar setup and will try to add them today. Judging by the available mounting points on the driver side bracket, Mazda wanted me to do this.

 

[ADS-B]

I reset the adaptive after installing the first tune revision. It was pretty smooth at light throttle.

What do you call "the adaptive"? And what is TB? Sorry for asking, I am not a big fan of acronyms.