Thank you and yes. It's just around the corner so you can't see it head on. But the whole rubber landing pad is rotated away from the guide thing. Not sure if it will cause any problems. I think the vibration from using an impact on the portable spring compressors caused the springs to rotate. I didn't notice until they were back on the car.I just went out to the garage for you, you're welcome. lol
My stock springs don't exactly look the same.
But, I felt along the bottom of the spring, to where the spring ends at the bottom, can't see it in your pics, and there's a 'stop' in that area and the end of the spring butts up against this stop. Does yours on both?
Trying to understand what you mean. The only "raised stop" is at the end of the rubber, which is where the end of the spring is. What you're seeing in the pictures is the entire spring and the rubber seat are rotated.As long as the spring is located properly on the spring "perch" on the strut (end of spring against the raised stop portion of the perch) I wouldn't worry about it. The rubber spring "seat" just provides a cushion between a hard metal spring and the metal strut which reduces vibration from the strut to the body. An alignment isn't going to rotate that piece of rubber anyway, it requires compressing the spring. "Much ado about nothing" in my book.
In the picture I can only see that the rubber is rotated. The metal 'cup' (spring perch on the strut) which supports the spring should have a raised bump which acts as a stop to keep the spring from rotating.Trying to understand what you mean. The only "raised stop" is at the end of the rubber, which is where the end of the spring is. What you're seeing in the pictures is the entire spring and the rubber seat are rotated.
The spring is correctly on the rubber. If only the rubber were rotated, the spring would not tuck into the end of it. I jacked up the sides again to get pics.In the picture I can only see that the rubber is rotated. The metal 'cup' (spring perch on the strut) which supports the spring should have a raised bump which acts as a stop to keep the spring from rotating.
Well there is no way I am taking these out again. The car is buttoned up.X2 the rubber isolator is not lined up metal lip on the spring perch. Mazda put that lip on the isolator for a reason. More than likely to prevent any noise if the spring monetarily hits the metal lip.
I would compress the spring and rotate the parts to align. Bummer....
You shouldn't have to take them out again. Get a spring compressor (probably rent one at Autozone etc) that hooks onto the coils and compress the spring slightly enough to rotate the spring and rubber into proper position.Well there is no way I am taking these out again. The car is buttoned up.
The lip can't be there to prevent noise from hitting...the lip. That's self-defeating. It has to just be anti-rotation.
I am going to drive the car and monitor it periodically. Thanks guys.
Thanks. Didn't think to do it on the car. I'm much more likely to fix it nowYou shouldn't have to take them out again. Get a spring compressor (probably rent one at Autozone etc) that hooks onto the coils and compress the spring slightly enough to rotate the spring and rubber into proper position.
Why do you need to use the impact wrench. A wrench or a pass -thru type socket works, just requires more elbow grease.Thanks. Didn't think to do it on the car. I'm much more likely to fix it now
That is assuming I can get the impact wrench in there.
Try using only 2 compressors on the spring or do you mean 4 compressors total for 2 springs. There's no danger of the spring flying off and you only need to compress enough to rotate.Because I don't want to wrench all day on four spring compressors that I can only make 1/4 turns on. Work smarter not harder. But I'll use whatever works.