Need Help - Brand new Spec clutch is slipping; is this normal?

TDK

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TURBO 2002 Mazda Protege5
I have a 2002 P5 that has been turbo charged. I'm currently running 19psi of boost with 202kw at the wheels. I previously had an ACT clutch install but decided to change it for a SPEC clutch.

I bought a Stage 3 Hybrid SPEC clutch and had it installed today. I also had the clutch fork, pivot bolt and the clutch bearing from the MSP also installed. But the clutch is currently slipping. The clutch disengages as it should and it feels good when driving. The problem is if you give it a big of gas. I was on the freeway and as I was accelerating, not giving it full throttle, it started to slip as the boost started to build up around the 3k-4k revs mark.

My mechanic played around with the pick up point and he said he had it as low as he could get it. The instructions says that you should not give it full throttle for about 450miles. So I am hoping it might just need to settle, but I keep think about how it slipped when I wasn't giving it full throttle.

Has anyone experienced this. Do clutches on turbo cars need to be broken in before they stick?
 
19 PSI? You prob make way too much power for a spec stage 3. What size turbo do you have? I assume your engine is fully built. Yes, you should break in the clutch for 500 miles.
 
I have a Garrett T3 turbo, and the engine has been built.

202kw is equivalent to 270hp, and this is at the wheels.

I bought the clutch from Menatal Addiction Motorsport. His website says the SPEC stage 3 Hybrid can take 400lb/ft of torque. That should be plenty for my car. Please have a look at the following link:
http://**************************.com/cart/product_info.php?products_id=49
 
You def should break the clutch in but I would think that it would hold regardless of that.

Stock flywheel? Did you have it machined before you put in the new clutch?
 
No it's not the stock flywheel. I should of mentioned that i also had a lightened flywheel installed when i had the clutch installed. I bought the flywheel from a friend after he had only used it for a couple of months. I was going to have in machined but you could see that it didn't need it because it looked perfect. The cross hatching also looked perfect. My mechanic said there was no point. I believe the clucth is the one from the MSP, it's only 3 pounds lighter than normal.
 
You should be concerned about the torque you're generating, not the horsepower. Every clutch out there (regardless of make, model, brand, etc etc.) is rated on the amount of torque it will hold.

What are your torque numbers like?
 
I'm not sure what my torque is. I have attached one of my dyno charts. On the right hand side it says "TorqFly", and i am guessing this is the correct value.
 

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After rereading that clutch should hold your torque output. Did you spray the flywheel down with brake cleaner after machining? Did you even machine it? Did you get oil or grease on the clutch lining?
 
tekkie said:
let me guess a fidenza clutch right?

Fidanza flywheel

SPEC clutch (it's in the thread title).

My guess is that the Fidanza (or whatever lightweight flywheel you got) needed machining to begin with. I may *look* good, but you never know.

Besides, if it was a Fidanza, you just need to replace the steel friction ring.
 
No it's not a Fidanza flywheel. It's from Mazda. It's the stock flywheel but they have machined off some of the back of the flywheel. The flywheel was properly cleaned before being installed.
 

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