arm alarm with tt
- Thread starter tddelsol
- Start date
Blue/White wire to keyless module is +12V when car key is in the on position, and 0V otherwise. Orange wire to pin 6 of alarm module is the same. Cutting both allows arming of alarm while car is running (even when you are driving). The alarm is armed from the keyless entry so cutting just the orange does no good. The only thing I want to know is there is probably a reason that those wires are there so you don't arm the alarm while running.
Wiggles422
Member
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- MSP #654
jurgs01 said:
Maybe if you're driving along and hit a bump with the alarm armed, it would go off while you're cruising along. (shrug) (scratch)
Wiggles6983
Member
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- 2003 Black Mica MSP
Why you need the relay where you cut the wire to the alarm.jurgs01 said:
Wiggles6983
Member
- :
- 2003 Black Mica MSP
well most any alarm shop would run the 2 relay setup, that way you can have the shock sensor as sensative as you like and it won't go off when the engine stops.Dr.Sound said:
CommieSpeed
Member
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- 2003.5 Titanium-Gray Mazdaspeed Protege
I agree, this is something that will be very helpful to everyone with a TT. I can't wait to fix mine once I fully understand all this relay s***! (thumb)tddelsol said:
CommieSpeed
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Titanium-Gray Mazdaspeed Protege
*quick re-read* Cool, ok I see what you mean! So all you have to do is cut those two wires, eh? Well it seems my friends orange wire and blue wire are about to meet their untimely death...MUHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!(dark)tddelsol said:
actually this is what i threw together from my understanding:
Cut blue white wire at keyless module.
Then cut the pin 6 orange wire at the alarm brain 2 inches up (diagram on bottom of alarm) then take the alarm side of the wire (the side of the wire still connected to the alarm) and tap it into the thick black orange wire coming out of the alarm harness. Then tape up the car side of the orange wire.<O
></O>
this is the diagram of the alarm:
Cut blue white wire at keyless module.
Then cut the pin 6 orange wire at the alarm brain 2 inches up (diagram on bottom of alarm) then take the alarm side of the wire (the side of the wire still connected to the alarm) and tap it into the thick black orange wire coming out of the alarm harness. Then tape up the car side of the orange wire.<O
></O>this is the diagram of the alarm:
Why tap into the large Black/orange wire? That is one of the wires that disables starting after the alarm goes off. All that will do is give a quick pulse when you turn the starter to make the alarm reset and the light on the dash stop flashing rapidly. The higher guage wire probably carries higher amperage and could fry internal components in an already flaky alarm. Next your all posting on why is my alarm not working posts. LOL. Just cut the wires two wires and make sure to insulate both the car sides of the wires (grounded wires bad). If the alarm does go off (which i'm sure doesn't happen every day so it won't be a nuisance), all you have to do is re-arm your alarm with the lock button on your remote and it resets. Do what you guys want, but I don't trust the transistors and diodes not to fail on that cheap alarm control module circuit board. I just have the wires cut and it works great I've run it through all possible situations.
The two wires previously described. The orange wire going to the alarm control module (there is a good pic of the module about two or three threads back). That wire gives 12V when the ignition is in the ON position, 0V if not in the ON position. If you cut it then the alarm will always think the car is off (but it doesn't affect the alarm operation otherwise). The alarm is not armed by itself, it is alarmed by the remote door locking system. That sensor is located behind the back seats right about in the center underneath the plastic that is below the back winshield. It is very close to the seats so all you have to to is put down the seats, take out the little plastic pieces that hold the plastic cover and just fold it up a bit. Cut and properly insulate the engine side of the blue/white wire. All that wire does is provide the 12V when your ignition is in the ON position, and 0V when not. So by cutting both your remote door lock and your alarm will never know if the engine is running and you can activate them anytime (including when the car is running down using the turbo timer). If your alarm goes off, usually after you shut it down the light behind your steering wheel will flash really fast. This is just to tell you that your alarm went off. Now that you have cut the orange wire when you start your car that light will not stop flashing. Not a really big deal. If it is annoying you just arm your alarm using the lock button remote lock control and it will stop. Otherwise your alarm funtions normally and still even disables the starter when it is set off. I am not trying to convice anyone what to do, but as a journeyman electrician and currently an electrical engineering student I stand by my last post. I assume most of you doing this have very little electrical experience, and instead of tapping into the ignition wire just cut the wires and insulate the ignition side of them. This will work, and it is very easy and safe for you to do.
i already did the alarm mod several weeks ago and every thing seems to be working fine. the alarm arms when the turbo timer counts down. i can see the little red alarm lite flashing. when the turbo timer finishes counting and turns the engine off the alarm is still armed.
its A-O-K!
its A-O-K!
you click to arm it on the remote. Cutting the wires just "tricks" your alarm and rmt door lock into thinking the car is always off so you can arm the alarm and lock the doors when the car is on. I've ran it through all scenarios and there are no malfuntions. The only thing is like i previously said if your alarm happens to go off you reset it by pushing the lock button on your remote instead of it just reseting when you start the car like it used to. no big deal and an excellent trade off from waiting for your turbo timer.
