Realistic price discount for a 2023 CX-5?

oldspicejet

Member
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mazda cx-5
I called a dealer and told them I want a 2023 Preferred CX-5 and whats the price. They said $2k over MSRP. I said I'll only pay MSRP and I want the $500 loyalty due to owning a cx-5. the guy said he needs to talk to manager.

He called back and said sure we can do that but we also put door handle film not the doors for $397 and that comes installed.

The guy sent me the invoices since the car hasn't yet arrived to dealer.

Could I have asked for a bigger discount or is paying MSRP the lowest they do these days? This is in Los Angeles.
 
I think msrp is good price for cx5 for this market, day and year :)
or they can discount the msrp but will ding you on the trade in if there is one.
just 300$ for addons is a bargain to me given the current shortage of new cars.
if you are looking for discount on the msrp its togh to get it. May be with the costco program but thats hit and miss with the dealers
 
I think msrp is good price for cx5 for this market, day and year :)
or they can discount the msrp but will ding you on the trade in if there is one.
just 300$ for addons is a bargain to me given the current shortage of new cars.
if you are looking for discount on the msrp its togh to get it. May be with the costco program but thats hit and miss with the dealers
I just got a Costco card. whats that about? im unfamiliar
 
I just got a Costco card. whats that about? im unfamiliar
They have a car buyers program where participating dealers agree to sell at a fixed predetermined price. At the time (pre covid) I was able to get a better price sending emails to a bunch of dealers requesting their best prices. The Costco participating dealer would not budge off their predetermined price.

Never hurts to check into it especially in this market. You already have a Costco membership it's free to use. In my case the closest participating dealer was also like an hour away.
 
I called a dealer and told them I want a 2023 Preferred CX-5 and whats the price. They said $2k over MSRP. I said I'll only pay MSRP and I want the $500 loyalty due to owning a cx-5. the guy said he needs to talk to manager.

He called back and said sure we can do that but we also put door handle film not the doors for $397 and that comes installed.

The guy sent me the invoices since the car hasn't yet arrived to dealer.

Could I have asked for a bigger discount or is paying MSRP the lowest they do these days? This is in Los Angeles.

Door handle PPF for $400??? Jesus. Call around to other dealers with this offer (MSRP less $500 for loyalty), but don't mention the door handle PPF. Surely there is another dealer around you within $100 of fuel costs that you could buy from. Then, if you do find someone who can match that pricing, you can take that quote back to the original dealer to see if they can match it to close the sale. Or just buy from the other dealer.

This is exactly what I did with my CX-9 to get the PPF on my front end, premium floor mats and cargo mat all thrown in for free.
 
Cars like the CX-5 are selling for $2500-5000 over sticker right now. It is on the invoice as a 'market adjustment'. My dealer had a $2500 fee added.. I was able to 'split it' which was something.. but I still paid an extra $1250 over sticker. I actually felt like it was a victory to get at least something back.. hahaa.. So many new cars are pre-sold now that the dealers don't need to sweeten the deals like they used to.

One thing was interesting when I bought my CX-5.. I was looking for a low mileage used vehicle to save money. After looking and looking, I was in the Mazda dealer and the salesman said that used cars have jumped in price 30% over the last two years.. and that I could probably go with a new model without spending much more. He was right. The new one I bought was only about $1000 more than the used low mileage one I was looking at.
 
I called a dealer and told them I want a 2023 Preferred CX-5 and whats the price. They said $2k over MSRP. I said I'll only pay MSRP and I want the $500 loyalty due to owning a cx-5. the guy said he needs to talk to manager.

He called back and said sure we can do that but we also put door handle film not the doors for $397 and that comes installed.

The guy sent me the invoices since the car hasn't yet arrived to dealer.

Could I have asked for a bigger discount or is paying MSRP the lowest they do these days? This is in Los Angeles.

Door handle protective film for $400? Is this anything more than this?


$9 for 8 pieces. Of course, you'd have to install them yourself.
 
thank you for the info. Can I ask for them to throw in the cargo cover or is that standard these days?

Nothing is really "thrown in" anymore, at least not in this market. If you want extras, you have to pay for them or negotiate to get them discounted or included for free.
 
OP, you should contact more dealers near you.
Good idea to widen the search radius to cover at least 3-4 dealers.
Use Mazdausa.com's inventory search function (under Shopping Tools -> Shop -> Inventory Search) to find which vehicles are on their lots and which are in transit to them.
If they have a lot of vehicles on their lots or in transit, I doubt you need to pay over MSRP.

I bought mine ('22 Turbo CX-5) in April, 2022.
Most dealers wanted $1-2k over MSRP. I found one (20 miles away) that offered MSRP+$900 accessories. Since that vehicle is in transit (I saw that on mazdausa.com), I told them to skip installing the accessories (ID protection package, wheel locks, etc.... ) and I would take it at MSRP. No loss to them either. After a couple of email exchanges, they agreed.

Arriving home, I found that all the accessories per se were installed already.
So, free gift to me.

That was when dealers only had less than 10 CX5s on their lots.
Now (I checked recently), most of them have ~30 CX5s on their lots.
You shouldn't have to pay more than MSRP, IMHO.
Of course, this depends on where you are located and how many CX5s your nearby dealers have.
 
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Cars like the CX-5 are selling for $2500-5000 over sticker right now. It is on the invoice as a 'market adjustment'. My dealer had a $2500 fee added.. I was able to 'split it' which was something.. but I still paid an extra $1250 over sticker. I actually felt like it was a victory to get at least something back.. hahaa.. So many new cars are pre-sold now that the dealers don't need to sweeten the deals like they used to.

One thing was interesting when I bought my CX-5.. I was looking for a low mileage used vehicle to save money. After looking and looking, I was in the Mazda dealer and the salesman said that used cars have jumped in price 30% over the last two years.. and that I could probably go with a new model without spending much more. He was right. The new one I bought was only about $1000 more than the used low mileage one I was looking at.
No they are not and by you not doing your homework and reaching out to dealers further out from your rip off area, you just enabled those dealers to keep doing what they are doing and suckers will pay. STOP doing that and they will stop. NEVER EVER Pay over MSRP. It's a scam and you were taken,but enjoy.

Dealerships are done for and need to be gone already leaving manufacturer to consumer direct sales as the new way to purchase. Only have showrooms to view and drive and buy online. Way past time for this.
 
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No they are not and by you not doing your homework and reaching out to dealers further out from your rip off area, you just enabled those dealers to keep doing what they are doing and suckers will pay. STOP doing that and they will stop. NEVER EVER Pay over MSRP. It's a scam and you were taken,but enjoy.
I am offended by that. It probably varies by the part of the country you are in.. but I ABSOLUTELY did my homework and got the best deal I could find within 100 miles. It took me two months to pull the trigger and finally make a purchase.
 
Anyone that doesn't absolutely doesn't need a vehicle right now needs to slow down and stop. At least in US, there was rapid inflation due to Covid manufacturing slowdown and extra govt $$ handouts. We are entering a period where customers are tightening their belts, all the handouts have been spent, inflation has topped out, manufacturing has come online and is increasing, used car inventories are increasing with prices dropping, Deflation is now a concern and new car inventory should start to increase with prices dropping back to normal. If I hadn't been stuck needing a vehicle last year at the the height of all this nonsense, I would be waiting until next year to get a good deal. Dont feed into the frenzy unless your vehicle is on its last leg and won't pass inspection.
 
Anyone that doesn't absolutely doesn't need a vehicle right now needs to slow down and stop. At least in US, there was rapid inflation due to Covid manufacturing slowdown and extra govt $$ handouts. We are entering a period where customers are tightening their belts, all the handouts have been spent, inflation has topped out, manufacturing has come online and is increasing, used car inventories are increasing with prices dropping, Deflation is now a concern and new car inventory should start to increase with prices dropping back to normal. If I hadn't been stuck needing a vehicle last year at the the height of all this nonsense, I would be waiting until next year to get a good deal. Dont feed into the frenzy unless your vehicle is on its last leg and won't pass inspection.
There is one interesting artifact to all the covid shortages etc.. My 2017 Tundra was in an accident and was total'd. With the increase in used vehicle pricing, the insurance payout of the truck was what I paid for the vehicle 5 years earlier. I was shocked. I was just hoping to get enough to cover the cost of a cheaper vehicle.
 
I am offended by that. It probably varies by the part of the country you are in.. but I ABSOLUTELY did my homework and got the best deal I could find within 100 miles. It took me two months to pull the trigger and finally make a purchase.

It definitely does vary based on location and number of accessible dealers. But I think what @Tchman2016 was trying to say was that you could have expanded your search to include getting quotes via telephone or email from dealers 200, 300 or more miles away. This way you don't have to do all that driving, and you can try to pit the dealers against each other to avoid paying a premium at one of your local dealerships. If those dealerships have nobody to compete with, they have no reason to lower their offer to be competitive.

It's also important for others to remember that a "good deal" is not always about the numbers. Often convenience, customer service, and a good buying experience is worth paying a little more to some individuals.

Let's remember that the point of this thread is not to criticize other people's deals.
 
thanks guys. I reached out to 3 local dealers in Los Angeles area and all wanted to sell car with up to $1000 in dealer extras. I said "no thanks, I dont want the extras and will only pay MSRP" over email and later in day all came back with, "OK ill do MSRP"

This makes me wonder if I could have asked for $500-$1000 under MSRP for something like the Premium Plus trim which is what I inquired about.
 
I am offended by that. It probably varies by the part of the country you are in.. but I ABSOLUTELY did my homework and got the best deal I could find within 100 miles. It took me two months to pull the trigger and finally make a purchase.
You're offended by me saying you did not do your homework? That's not what I was trying to get across. What I was saying by that comment was that If you really tried, then you would have not conceded to paying a ridiculous over MSRP price and not be suckered by "market adjustment" garbage dealerships spew to see who will bite and take the candy because their eyes are on a shiny new metal object their heart is set on. You should have never said you will spit that BS fee with them. YOU have the power to negotiate and walk. THEY need to sell cars. You don't have to buy one. If you have a weak stance, they will walk all over you. Your due diligence would have been to contact every single dealerships general sales manager within a 300 mile radius or better yet 500 miles via email/telephone (email is best) ONLY and negotiate that way. You can easily get their emails on the dealer websites or by calling reception at that dealer and asking. You then figure out what vehicles VIN numbers they have in stock or in transit from their website, the Mazda website or many other public websites. Then you take that info and construct a to the point, no nonsense email stating facts and what you will pay for a deal today, no markups, no add ons, no nonsense and state that you are well aware of inventory and are a seasoned buyer that only negotiates this way. You only visit the dealer to take delivery. You ask for a real line by line quote to be sent in a buyer's order for you to review. You then take those quotes and secretly pit those dealers against each other again back and forth with your closest dealers again by email only. The first to meet or beat your best quote is the dealer who wins. Give a deposit ONLY after this and make arrangements. By doing it this way, you take away the control and power they would normally have over you if you were inside trying to make a deal. They are all shark infested waters and you are their dinner. Not this way.

That is how everyone should do it to come out with an acceptable deal or better. It works.

If you are happy with your deal, then enjoy the vehicle. You can't change the deal now but you will always wonder if you would have called their bluff and could have saved much more $$$.
 
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You're offended by me saying you did not do your homework? That's not what I was trying to get across. What I was saying by that comment was that If you really tried, then you would have not conceded to paying a ridiculous over MSRP price and not be suckered by "market adjustment" garbage dealerships spew to see who will bite and take the candy because their eyes are on a shiny new metal object their heart is set on. You should have never said you will spit that BS fee with them. YOU have the power to negotiate and walk. THEY need to sell cars. You don't have to buy one. If you have a weak stance, they will walk all over you. Your due diligence would have been to contact every single dealerships general sales manager within a 300 mile radius or better yet 500 miles via email/telephone (email is best) ONLY and negotiate that way. You can easily get their emails on the dealer websites or by calling reception at that dealer and asking. You then figure out what vehicles VIN numbers they have in stock or in transit from their website, the Mazda website or many other public websites. Then you take that info and construct a to the point, no nonsense email stating facts and what you will pay for a deal today, no markups, no add ons, no nonsense and state that you are well aware of inventory and are a seasoned buyer that only negotiates this way. You only visit the dealer to take delivery. You ask for a real line by line quote to be sent in a buyer's order for you to review. You then take those quotes and secretly pit those dealers against each other again back and forth with your closest dealers again by email only. The first to meet or beat your best quote is the dealer who wins. Give a deposit ONLY after this and make arrangements. By doing it this way, you take away the control and power they would normally have over you if you were inside trying to make a deal. They are all shark infested waters and you are their dinner. Not this way.

That is how everyone should do it to come out with an acceptable deal or better. It works.

If you are happy with your deal, then enjoy the vehicle. You can't change the deal now but you will always wonder if you would have called their bluff and could have saved much more $$$.
Deals can still be had but it is alot harder nowadays... and at least for a few more months.

It sounds like he did try to get the best deal possible.

Back in the day, i was able to figure out what the manufacturer invoice price to the dealer was,(and it was low...car manufacturers made $$ on volume not markup... all dealers initially wouldn't budge but then after weeks of calls back and forth, eventually got the vehicle I wanted for 10k less than sticker. They still made decent profit on it.
That was $10 k that would have went in someone else's pocket instead of paying my bills.

During this recent inflated market I didn't fare as well. However I was able to find a dealer that sold a decent used cpo without all kind of add-ons(like laser engraved parts, convenience packages, etc) and for the best used car price on the market at the time. It was still inflated but still saved a few thousand compared to other dealers.

If a person can wait the market out for several months and then haggle for a few weeks with several dealer's, they should be able to get a decent deal.

The recent problem with getting good deals was the perfect storm and is threefold:
1.) Limited new and used car inventory , backlogs, and part shortages caused decreased supply and price increases.
2.) Govt handouts which gave everyone more $$ to spend which increased demand.
3.) Lastly, part of the issue is more of the younger generation doesn't like to haggle, become very stressed when haggling, was not taught to haggle by their parents and just want to buy it now. I see and hear it everyday whether it be friends kids, relatives, coworkers, etc. People would rather pay a few extra thousand than be stressed by negotiations. It's mind-boggling considering the extra amount of hours you would need to work at a job just to avoid stress of car buying. Me, I'd rather haggle and work less or use the $$ saved on a vacation.

The way things are going, I might sell cars part time.

Also, I like some of your ideas and will be using some of those during my next negotiations. Ive always negotiated in person/phone but like your email idea.
 
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