Realistic price discount for a 2023 CX-5?

[sm1ke]

There's always a way to "do more", it just comes down to how much grinding a person is willing to do, and whether or not they think it will be worth it.

@oldspicejet, if I'm reading your original post correctly, they sent you an invoice for the car, but you haven't paid for it yet. Is that correct? Did they ask you to make a deposit? If they did, is it refundable?

What I would do is contact the other two dealerships via email and tell them that you've received other offers for the vehicle at MSRP pricing, then ask them if they can do $1000 below MSRP. If they reply in an email that they can, you have an extra bargaining chip with your current dealer. Even if the current dealership refuses to match the price, and you have to forfeit a $500 deposit to walk away from the deal, you can still save $500 by going to the other dealer. Just be sure to finalize that deal before cancelling your original deal. I wouldn't want you to give up your deposit, then show up at the other dealer only for them to pull some bait-and-switch tactics on you.

Again, it all comes down to how much you want to fight for a better price. If you're comfortable with the price you paid, it might just be easier/less stressful to not worry about the deal and be excited for your new car! But, if you want those extra savings, the advice provided by others above is how you get them.

When I bought my CX-9, I basically did exactly what @Tchman2016 described in post #18, only it was not a secret that I was pitting them against each other. I basically told them all what I was looking for, what I wanted to pay, and who I was sending copies of this email to.

 

[oldspicejet]

There's always a way to "do more", it just comes down to how much grinding a person is willing to do, and whether or not they think it will be worth it.

@oldspicejet, if I'm reading your original post correctly, they sent you an invoice for the car, but you haven't paid for it yet. Is that correct? Did they ask you to make a deposit? If they did, is it refundable?

What I would do is contact the other two dealerships via email and tell them that you've received other offers for the vehicle at MSRP pricing, then ask them if they can do $1000 below MSRP. If they reply in an email that they can, you have an extra bargaining chip with your current dealer. Even if the current dealership refuses to match the price, and you have to forfeit a $500 deposit to walk away from the deal, you can still save $500 by going to the other dealer. Just be sure to finalize that deal before cancelling your original deal. I wouldn't want you to give up your deposit, then show up at the other dealer only for them to pull some bait-and-switch tactics on you.

Again, it all comes down to how much you want to fight for a better price. If you're comfortable with the price you paid, it might just be easier/less stressful to not worry about the deal and be excited for your new car! But, if you want those extra savings, the advice provided by others above is how you get them.

When I bought my CX-9, I basically did exactly what @Tchman2016 described in post #18, only it was not a secret that I was pitting them against each other. I basically told them all what I was looking for, what I wanted to pay, and who I was sending copies of this email to.

thanks. I haven't yet paid the $500 refundable deposit anywhere. My original statement to Dealer 1 was that I won't pay more than MSRP and I want $500 loyalty discount. Other dealers tried to at least get paid for the $1000 in dealer installed options but I said "nope, I already got MSRP offer from Dealer 1" They all later said that theyll do MSRP on their own. The fact that I didn't have to haggle and pin them against each other makes me think they could do better on the discount. They all have cars on the lot too at this point. Maybe they don't have all the colors and trims but they do have inventory so seems things are changing. Im just not sure how low to go. Counter them with $1000 less + $500 loyalty + let me have all the dealer options free?

When I bought a 2015 CX-5 new, I got $2,000 off the sticker by doing the pin technique over email and one dealer called me end of month saying, "if you come today I'll do your price" so I went on a Sunday and bought it. Something is up with Toyota though. They want $10,000 over sticker for the Plug in Rav4 at this point. I asked the sales guy "how these buyers will make up the difference in MPG by paying $55k for a Rav4? He said he has no idea what these people are thinking.

 

[meow_man]

Something is up with Toyota though. They want $10,000 over sticker for the Plug in Rav4 at this point. I asked the sales guy "how these buyers will make up the difference in MPG by paying $55k for a Rav4? He said he has no idea what these people are thinking.

Yeah, my brother is shopping RAV4 & the Toyota dealer who just acquired the Mazda/VW dealer I've been dealing with is advertising $2k ADM on a normal RAV4 & $4k ADM on a hybrid. So far they haven't advertised that on any of the Mazda's & VW's.

At the 1/2 dozen or so Toyota dealers my brother has shopped, all the incoming RAV's are presold. My Mazda dealer seems to have a fair number of CX-5's.

 

[ceric]

I suggest that while doing negotiation leave the $500 loyalty discount out of it.
Dealer will apply that into the final price anyway. They get that money from Mazda.
Keep negotiation simple.

 

[hooked]

thanks guys. I reached out to 3 local dealers in Los Angeles area and all wanted to sell car with up to $1000 in dealer extras. I said "no thanks, I dont want the extras and will only pay MSRP" over email and later in day all came back with, "OK ill do MSRP"

This makes me wonder if I could have asked for $500-$1000 under MSRP for something like the Premium Plus trim which is what I inquired about.

It’s a fine line. You don’t want to offer a higher price and then try to haggle them down. You want to start with a lower offer and then negotiate up if needed. On the flip side, if your offer is too low, the dealers might not think you’re serious about buying or it’s not worth their time.

 

[Tchman2016]

A CX-5 is not a rav 4, it's way better and I personally found the RAV4 to be a POS as far as quality, features, luxury and style go compared the mazda. I'd personally rather have the Mazda and let the brainwashed Toyota or Honda lovers get screwed over with nonsense ADM. Mazda is tops in quality and a little known secret. People think they are superior. They are not and have many many problems of their own. Be smart.

 

[meow_man]

A CX-5 is not a rav 4, it's way better and I personally found the RAV4 to be a POS as far as quality, features, luxury and style go compared the mazda. I'd personally rather have the Mazda and let the brainwashed Toyota or Honda lovers get screwed over with nonsense ADM. Mazda is tops in quality and a little known secret. People think they are superior. They are not and have many many problems of their own. Be smart.

Agreed. I compared everything in this category and went for the Mazda. When my first CX-5 was rear ended & totaled at 4 months I replaced it with it's clone. My youngest son has a Mazda 3 & loves it. He's had no problems whatsoever. My older son lost his car in a flood & wanted to replace it with a GTR cause he liked mine so much. We tried in vain to find a GTR but peak pandemic could not find one available. He "settled" on a CRV mainly because one was available on the dealers lot. It's an ok vehicle but not on par with my GTR in my opinion.

 

[chickdr]

I would suggest waiting to buy if all possible as we are at the beginning of a big market correction. Prices will be falling for a while now. Hopefully we get back to a buyer favorable market soon. Dealers have had a nice ride....

 

[asatar22]

Here in NJ most dealers are selling at MSRP. The one I got my 2022 CX 5 from gave me $500 discount + $500 loyalty. That was 3 weeks ago.

 

[ceric]

If you can wait, please wait.
Economy is slowing down.
In a few months, dealers will beg you to buy from them at huge discount. I recall the days when Mazda offered $8000 off MSRP on a new CX9.

 

[LACX5]

Mazda dealer an hour from LA is having a "blow out sale". They have around 73 CX-5 on their inventory. This is the dealer that sold my CX-5 Premium last January at $40,549 excld taxes. The MSRP was $33,535. Dealer installed options $4,790. There was another $2,224 of charges that the finance manager did not provide any explanation of what it was for.

 

[HyFlyer]

Two posts I've seen that you have talked about the $7000 plus "upcharge" from the dealership "finance manager" with $2224 of it that you don't seem to know what it was for. @LACX5 , are you satisfied with your purchase?

 

[Conrad 16.5]

Mazda dealer an hour from LA is having a "blow out sale". They have around 73 CX-5 on their inventory. This is the dealer that sold my CX-5 Premium last January at $40,549 excld taxes. The MSRP was $33,535. Dealer installed options $4,790. There was another $2,224 of charges that the finance manager did not provide any explanation of what it was for.

Dealer installed options $4,790. There was another $2,224 of charges that the finance manager did not provide any explanation of what it was for.

And you didn't ask about these charges? They must LOVE you at this dealership. I'll bet they're chomping at the bit to see you come back in for service...

 

[Tchman2016]

I can't even ... I just can't

 

[diehard080]

I called a dealer and told them I want a 2023 Preferred CX-5 and whats the price. They said $2k over MSRP. I said I'll only pay MSRP and I want the $500 loyalty due to owning a cx-5. the guy said he needs to talk to manager.

He called back and said sure we can do that but we also put door handle film not the doors for $397 and that comes installed.

The guy sent me the invoices since the car hasn't yet arrived to dealer.

Could I have asked for a bigger discount or is paying MSRP the lowest

I purchased a new CX-5 CE NA in Feb of 2022- one year ago !!!! I also sold cars for years - possibly I have something to help a fellow Mazda friend -
The dealer can make upgrades and once done - pay it or find another car - 3M clear coating was once popular , it covered the door handles , side mirrors and full nose of the car . -
-until you arrive at the dealer with a deposit or arrive ready to buy from inventory that day- that minute, with a hanshake and checkbook in hand ....you are whats known by sales as a "tire kicker"

This approach of phone calling for price can ruin what should be a killer day !!! Your getting a NEW CX-5 /. super fortunate !!

- If they have a CX5s in stock that you want , then pick one out - a specific vehicle with a stock # - Tell sales - you want that car specifically - While the sales guy is writing down the stock # or just returned with the key - you make 100% sure its what you want - color etc - and say , you will drive it away today if its msrp- shake hands on it -

That simple - they want to move a unit and you want a car - the point - try not to negotiate over the phone , or phone price shop- use the phone to find a dealer that can tell you whats definitly in inventory - then .......go where the car is -and your presence and statement of driving it away today - will get you your price - They will do it . - Personally , I have sympathy for good salespeople and believe that if you pay a fair price- or overpay a little - you wont regret it as you willl inevitably be returning to that dealer in need of something some day - so dont be the guy they hide from when you come in - be the guy whos wise and understands business and getting back what you paid or overpaid a little ,at some future date - you will have a car with good positive energy from the first day you own it - no arguments - Ive seen other salespeople haggling with price grinders who want every penny- alll day long - fighting over crumbs - horrible - a bad day and often bitter exchange - in some cases its cultural to haggle all day - but thats not you and a story for another day
- So that in my opinion is a bad way to start a long term relationship with a new vehicle and the dealer - Be firm but fair , pay the msrp and thier add on for $400 for the door handle covers - and if you are interested , say not only that , but "if you tell F&I to work with me on a good warranty deal - I may get that as well - "
Make sure the car has under 5 miles - or close .....mine ususlly have 3 miles or less - my CX5 had 3 - never test driven - very important detail - LOOK AT THE ODOMETER ! -A new car should be new - many dealers dont even allow a demo at all on the new cars - But sometimes one gets let out and some leadfoot hammers a new car into submission - and has no intention of buying -

Mazda test drives new cars about a mile or under as its been bench tested anyway -
Then driving to load on a cargo ship and unload onto a holding lot for truck pickup ususlly leaves about 2-3 miles on the car once finally at the dealer - PDI ( pre delivery inspection ) can use 1/2 mile or nothing - some dealers just top fluids , check tires - away

Once you get the agreement on price - ( which you do in person )
Consider a MAZDA VSA - Its an extended warranty - acronym means "Vehicle Service Agreement "
Its a manufacturer product which is underwritten by Toyota - but I suggest gettng it IF that dealer sellls the FACTORY VSA ( warranty ) - i would stay away from third party warranties - MAZDA OE Everything -
That VSA has a max of 120,000 miles and zero deductable - its around $2000-2500 - a very good investment and transferable if you sell or pro-rate cancellable if you want the money back - you car reverts to the original warranty -

It takes the 3/36 and makes it into 10/120 -)10 years )
Its 100% fully refundable at ANY TIME even after its been used - except the dealer keeps $100 for unwinding the VSA - still Mazda will send you a check for cash - even if financed - you can still cancel it anytime - it can be transfered if you sell the car , after all 10 years 120k is substantial -
Get it , Keep it. - then whats ususlly happens is the car has no issues - but if you skip it - well nurphys law



- Enjoy the new ride ! Mazda was awarded the most reliable car mfgr by Consumer Reports -

Mazda Named Most Reliable Brand For 2022 By Consumer Reports | Torque News

In its newest rankings, Consumer Reports Mazda scores highest overall in the auto industry in reliability.

www.torquenews.com

- I forgot - if you are ordering a car - or trying to get one off the pipeline and its on its way to the dealer - spot a $500 deposit - and make your deal the same way - say msrp and ill do all the paperwork and financing now - ( they wont do the paperwork until the cars there ) but they will see you mean business and will take the deal - and your deposit )-
Congrats in advance - my only regret - i didnt get bose on my cx5 - arrg

 

[sm1ke]

I also sold cars for years - possibly I have something to help a fellow Mazda friend

Thanks for the input @diehard080! Always good to learn more about the mindset of the salesperson/dealer. We have a lot of members who can provide good advice as past buyers, but very few members who can provide advice as sellers. I'm sure this will help a lot in navigating future new car purchases with a salesperson.

 

[Chocolate]

I suggest that while doing negotiation leave the $500 royalty discount out of it.
Dealer will apply that into the final price anyway. They get that money from Mazda.
Keep negotiation simple.

Royalty discount, you say?

 

[diehard080]

Thanks for the input @diehard080! Always good to learn more about the mindset of the salesperson/dealer. We have a lot of members who can provide good advice as past buyers, but very few members who can provide advice as sellers. I'm sure this will help a lot in navigating future new car purchases with a salesperson.

Well - there is a MUCH simpler way - If you live in LA - Drive to Scottsdale Az - The #1 dealer in sales in the USA is there - called "Mark "- I dont work for them and never have or have no friend or other that works there - That said ...They sell every car for MSRP- no more - ever -
You can buy the car there, pay only Scottsdale city tax (1.7%)approx - then they give you a 90 registration( free) - go back to Ca ( a short drive 1/2 day ) and pay Ca tax and registration - apparently many peopke are doing this - It just dawned on me after I reread your post and saw you lived in LA -

 

[jadmt]

I paid msrp ie $38720 OTD no other fees added on. I thought that was high, as I am used to getting under msrp, but nobody within $500 was better and some were wanting over msrp. They did throw in 2 free oil changes and tire rotations but I do that myself so I won't even use them. They did have to do a dealer trade with another dealer to get the white I wanted and did not charge for that and I am guessing that had to cost a little out of their pocket as the car was on a dealer lot over 200 miles away and I know they used a truck as the car had 15 miles on it when I picked it up. View attachment 317593

 

[Sig cx-5]

I paid msrp ie $38720 OTD no other fees added on.

FYI, OTD pricing is considered the total you paid, including fees and taxes. It is not something that is comparable on the web, but it seems like you're referring to your "negotiated" price. Your CR-V was totaled, so you had no trade in, correct?