Hard plastic. It's made in Canada and appears very well made.
Thanks. This looks like very different design than the other makes (INA, Dayco, ect.)
I've had good luck with stuff made in Canada. Notably my car ramps.
Hard plastic. It's made in Canada and appears very well made.
Somehow I missed your post. And thank you for doing this and your investigation has answered many questions I have towards our problematic belt tensioner.Gonna have to follow your posts. Would like to know the construction of the Gates vs the INA.
I inspected my new backup OEM INA with numbers F-569897.07 on the metal part and F8435-14 on rubber cover. The rubber cover can be removed easily. In fact, if you pinch the edges of the top or bottom part you can make some oil spill out. It is on snug vs really tight.
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I opened it and observed transparent very thin oil like baby oil or mineral oil. Odorless. The oil only fills up no more than 1/3rd of the chamber. No higher than the INA stamped logo. I used a thick dull flathead screwdriver to help carefully replace the rubber part back.
I think I could just refill with oil if under certain conditions. I went back to this Tensioner discussion starting post #18. Here's my insight:
- I agree with the guy that the oil is more for lubricating the spring inside. I'm no expert but I'm 99% sure its not for dampening.
- Oil in there simply swishes around. Only covers the lower porting of the internal spring.
- The rubber seal is not tight at all...its snug. Air and oil can easily escape.....and if that happens then dirt can easily make its way inside possibly causing friction and messing with the tension specs.
- How the heck does a non-air tight seal dampen? The spring pressure was the same as with the rubber top off.
- dude had a 2012 model where he changed the belts and put more oil in his tensioner. He probably did not know how much oil to add. Perhaps added too much, too little?
- dude used hydraulic oil. Its not under high pressure and heat so I guess it works?
- dude did end up changing his tensioner BUT reported the spring part was intact and in good condition......it was the other components of the tensioner that failed. Not the part that has oil in it. Since he changed his belts (high mileage engine) it meant the tensioner's other component failed and made noise. If said components were still good he could've kept it imho.
- seepage seems normal, don't fret....too much at least.
- Try not to let dirt/grease build up around rubber seals.
- if in doubt, replace it![]()
yeah based on your findings how does a damper with non-air-tight seal dampen? Although Mazda calls it “damper” in the TSB!⋯
- I agree with the guy that the oil is more for lubricating the spring inside. I'm no expert but I'm 99% sure its not for dampening.
- Oil in there simply swishes around. Only covers the lower porting of the internal spring.
- The rubber seal is not tight at all...its snug. Air and oil can easily escape.....and if that happens then dirt can easily make its way inside possibly causing friction and messing with the tension specs.
- How the heck does a non-air tight seal dampen? The spring pressure was the same as with the rubber top off.
Actually INA is a well-known auto parts manufacture from Germany. They‘re OE supplier for BMW、Mercedes、Audi、and apparently for Mazda. I’d use INA tensioner without any hesitation.The Gates one "appears" to be made of higher quality. Compared to the OEM INA one (no matter the version) the Gates has shiny and smooth metal. Look at the bearing assembly on the roller vs the INA one with a black plastic circle shroud cover. The OEM INA next to it in video is old and dirty but even brand new it has a galvanized unfinished metal surface. The black top part assemble looks thicker as well. Look at the 7:15 mark of Video
Or use unicorn tears.
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Seepage on tensioner damper appears normal for the OEM design in your version with your part number and serial number. But IMO it’s not supposed to be normal. That’s why the “shape” of the tensioner damper has been changed to prevent oil leakage due to insufficient sealing at damper which causes rattling noises.⋯
Seepage appears normal (for the oem design). You want to minimize oil/dirt accumulation from getting into the black rollers and pivot points (parts on the tensioner that actual move) which could be a cause for squealing noises. I recommend just wiping the top of the tensioner periodically. Using a grocery bag covering the alternator, you could spray the top of the tensioner with mild degreaser like dawn soapy water, hose it down and also rinse off the belts below it too.
See post #26 and post #41.Inner part?.........oh yes inner part says .10 I didn't even notice it.That loosk to be an even older design than the TSB says to replace. Yours is .07, the one the TSB says to replace is .10, and the current replacement part is .13. What is the part number on the inner side of the tensioner under the Mazda logo?
Actually INA is a well-known auto parts manufacture from Germany. They‘re OE supplier for BMW、Mercedes、Audi、and apparently for Mazda. I’d use INA tensioner without any hesitation.
I wonder if the Gates tensioner has a real damper inside as it looks like a mini shock absorber with a hard plastic top cap. In theory a rubber top should have better sealing preventing dust than a hard plastic with no sealing effect.
As the bearing assembly on the roller between the INA and Gates, the INA one has an additional black plastic circle shroud cover to cover the bearing. It’s like INA one has a wheel hub cap but the Gates one does not.![]()
The TSB is for 2013-2019 CX-5. And it can’t be just a single version “10” in serial number which is having the oil Leah problem. We’ve seen people who have version “7” developed oil leak too. I‘m most curious that what serial number and part number are on the tensioner of your 2013 CX-5 which is still doing fine? We’ve to wait until you’re replacing the serpentine belt to find out?I hear you......the issue is the early and even mid version INA ones have been known to leak. Like I said there design allows them to. I mean, how many revisions do they have to make? My backup is date stamped December 2018 and its a version 10. There's more thereafter? Every single version leaked? Perhaps that's why they changed the shape because the early/mid versions.........umm the sealing was more snug than airtight. I'll stand down on my stance on the Not Dampening opinion since I'm no expert.
TSB: "This may be caused by insufficient sealing at the drive belt auto tensioner damper when the auto tensioner fully operates under both high ambient temperature and high load conditions."
It's difficult to confirm what version you are actually getting. Resolution: Come in to the dealership parts department to see which ones they have in person. Otherwise if ordering online they can send you outdated versions.
The OEM INA ones look acceptable for what we need the part to do but the Gates one looks like a more refined part on the outside at least. The OEM water pump and belts are reliable. The weak spot of the belt system IS the tensioner. Keep in mind Gates makes the waterpump, both belts, and the tensioner as options for all skyactive engines. Viable options for the tensioner would be the latest version INA tensioner (tricky to get?) and the Gates one.
Edit: TSB clearly states to check for version 10. If so and leaking to replace with version 13 under warranty term. Taking a closer look at version 13 in the TSB illustration it looks to have a shape like the Gates now. On the top part, the version 10 and under has a "top hat" shape whereas the version 13 and Gates have a full square head shape on top. Only way to confirm is to get a version 13 in person.Say no to the top hat shape!
The TSB is for 2013-2019 CX-5. And it can’t be just a single version “10” in serial number which is having the oil Leah problem. We’ve seen people who have version “7” developed oil leak too. I‘m most curious that what serial number and part number are on the tensioner of your 2013 CX-5 which is still doing fine? We’ve to wait until you’re replacing the serpentine belt to find out?
I have difficult time to follow your finding on "top hat" shape and full square head shape on top between old version and newer version on OEM tensioner.
And please check the Mazda part number stamped on the level of your spare tensioner and let us know?
So you can’t see the part number below the Mazda logo on the level of your spare tensioner as illustrated in the TSB?Its the same part for all Skyactiv models. TSB indicates all skyactiv models at the time of print: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10168785-0001.pdf
APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
US Spec.: 2016-2019 CX-3 2013-2019 CX-5 2016-2019 CX-9 2016-2019 MX-5 2014-2019 Mazda3 2014-2019 Mazda6
Mexico Spec.: 2013-2019 CX-5 2017-2020 Mazda6
My spare is version 10 made on date 2018. Inside facing as part number F-569897 10. Purchased from dealership in 2019. I did not remove the original 2013 CX-5 one to read the part number. Keep in mind its a 2.0 engine so less load condition vs the 2.5 engine.
You are correct, the TSB merely illustrates the version 13 tensioner when the spring is compressed (non-top hat shape). When non compressed its then a top hat shape. The Gates part covers the top spring even whether the spring is compressed or not. They may be implementing a different way to keep the oil from leaking. All hidden in that black plastic cover.
A person with the version 13 could probably attest to how easy or harder it is to open the rubber seal top.
So you can’t see the part number below the Mazda logo on the level of your spare tensioner as illustrated in the TSB?
No, not the serial number. See the illustration where you can see the Mazds logo and part number such as “PE03-15980 K0255” here:My spare is version 10 made on date 2018. Inside facing as part number F-569897 10.
Interesting. Your package has part number PET2-15-980, but the tensioner itself says the part number is “PE03-15980 K0255” (PE03-15-980) with serial number “F-569897.10” ⋯My spare says PE03-15980 K0255
Thanks for the info. Now we know accessing the tensioner from wheel well doesn’t work for CX-5! Did you keep the old tensioner where you can check the part number and serial number stamped on the tensioner?OK, I'm a failure! I did NOT replace the belt tensioner or belts today. I got all ready to decided to due the "take-off-the-right-front-tire-and-splash-shield" method. I did that and unfortunately, unlike the Mazda3 in the video, the belt tensioner in the CX-5 is in an almost impossible position. I gave it a shot but I couldn't even release the tension to remove the serpentine belt. So I closed it all up and I'll bring it (and all the parts) to my favorite mechanic and let him have all the fun! To be fair, this is "probably" DIY doable if you have a lift since the working position would be much better, but I don't have a lift.
This is a picture of my dirty tensioner. Leaking? Beats me, but it makes no noise.
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And after removing the tire and the splash shield, here is the view. Lots of metal in the way of where you need to get too. Tried both from this angle and the top before I gave up. Can't imagine that the standard shop time for the swap is .4 hours of labor!
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I haven't taken it to my mechanic yet. But I will ask for the old part when I do.Thanks for the info. Now we know accessing the tensioner from wheel well doesn’t work for CX-5! Did you keep the old tensioner where you can check the part number and serial number stamped on the tensioner?