Mazda5 Wheel Fitment & Photo Guide

Has anyone run a 17x9 +42?

Based on what I'm seeing in this thread, I have a feeling that it would rub the strut and stick out a slight bit, no? Tire size would probably be 235/45 and it's not lowered.

I assume I'm better off with a 17x8.
 
Has anyone run a 17x9 +42?

Based on what I'm seeing in this thread, I have a feeling that it would rub the strut and stick out a slight bit, no? Tire size would probably be 235/45 and it's not lowered.

I assume I'm better off with a 17x8.

I did a fit check pretty close to that- same offset on 17x7- the 235/45 would fit and clear the strut, but the wheel itself won't. It'll stick out too.
 
I did a fit check pretty close to that- same offset on 17x7- the 235/45 would fit and clear the strut, but the wheel itself won't. It'll stick out too.

Not sure what year you got, but I have 17x9 +40, and it definitely doesn't fit. It touches my coilovers, I added a 10mm spacer, and fits. I probably could've gotten away with a 5mm spacer.
 
Not sure what year you got, but I have 17x9 +40, and it definitely doesn't fit. It touches my coilovers, I added a 10mm spacer, and fits. I probably could've gotten away with a 5mm spacer.

2008. Like I said in my post, +42 offset but with a 17x7 wheel. Your setup was a full inch wider into the wheel well.
 
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2007 mazda 5 with work euroline mh 18" x7.5. Offset 47. Tyre size 225/45/18
 
Just to be sure we are on the same page, I mean paint the rims two different colors, not run two different sets. Ok. Anyway, waiting to see pics of yours b/c RX8 rims are my fav on our model gen!


Ok, they're at the powdercoaters now. 14 day turn around (bang)...
 
So ... has anyone yet testfitted actual FWD 15" wheels? I've got several 14s and 15s laying around, but they're from midsize RWD stuff built back when the hotrod setup was 11" drums out back!
 
16" wheels are VERY close to the calipers, i highly doubt 15" wheels will fit. but, if you already have them laying around....
 
So ... has anyone yet testfitted actual FWD 15" wheels? I've got several 14s and 15s laying around, but they're from midsize RWD stuff built back when the hotrod setup was 11" drums out back!

16" wheels are VERY close to the calipers, i highly doubt 15" wheels will fit. but, if you already have them laying around....

Plus 15" wheels are very hard to find in the 5x114.3 bolt pattern these days... especially in import friendly offsets. BUT- it just so happens that I have an old school Motegi Trak-Lite in 15x7 5x114.3 that I'm going to try out on my 5. No time yet though.
 
Anyone know if I could run 18x9 +40 with a 5mm spacer to make it +35? I remember someone ran 18x9 +35 with a 215/40 all around, but I believe it was the first gen? This set up would be going on a 2013 model.
 
Plus 15" wheels are very hard to find in the 5x114.3 bolt pattern these days... especially in import friendly offsets. BUT- it just so happens that I have an old school Motegi Trak-Lite in 15x7 5x114.3 that I'm going to try out on my 5. No time yet though.

I don't know, this was pretty easy: https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/res...ZDA3+4-Door&autoYear=2005&autoModClar=i+Sport (click on "Basic Steel Wheels" tab)

EDIT: Oops, changed it to '05. Apparently if you say it's an '08, some NHTSA geniuses worked things so it's illegal for them to mount tires without selling you new TMPS sensors.
 
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I don't know, this was pretty easy: https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/res...ZDA3+4-Door&autoYear=2005&autoModClar=i+Sport (click on "Basic Steel Wheels" tab)

EDIT: Oops, changed it to '05. Apparently if you say it's an '08, some NHTSA geniuses worked things so it's illegal for them to mount tires without selling you new TMPS sensors.

Illegal? How could they mandate that? There's no way to know exactly what car you're going to put it on... and there's no legal requirement to actually drive with your TPMS sensors active.
 
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And another shot.

The wheels are Wed Mavericks 405s, bought straight from japan, custom ordered wheels. I shipped them on the plane home with me after my trip to the tokyo auto salon, so shipping was super cheap.

Sizes are as follows, if you have been following my posts:

20x8.5 +44 S-Lo disk for the front
20x8.5 +35 S-Lo disk for the rears

- You cant fit anything larger than 8.5 without risking the rim hitting the strut housing and fender in the front with a particular offset. You need to use at least a 45-47+ offset w/ 8.5 width wheels on the front to avoid the strut housing. If you run anything lower than the offset I'm using, youll start hitting the bumper tabs if you're low enough. Even if you're not low enough to hit, bumps and dips in the road will make you hit them anyway. I was already hitting bumper tabs, but I had the bumper tabs shaved off completely, and are now being held on by zip ties. You cant tell unless you look under. The bumper no longer gets pushed out when I air out or drive.

- You cant fit anything larger than 8.5 in the rear if you're trying to tuck the wheel and tires. Anything larger than the sizing I specified, and youll hit the fender well on the lower areas of the arch. If you want to push out the wheel a bit more when trying to tuck, 1 or 2 more millimeters should be ok, but youll be resting the fender arches on the wheel and tire.

- You cant camber more than a certain amount of degress using adjustable arms if you're trying to tuck wheel with air suspension. You'll hit the shock housing as well.

- If you're going low, you need to trim the bumper tabs.

- If youre trying to go "HELLAFlush," you can use a 9" width wheel, which should push it out about 6mm more (from a 8.5" width wheel), and it should mate the wheel to the fender. Adjust accordingly using camber arms, and you will need to camber. You will have to TRIM the bumper tabs, but they can stay relatively there.

- If youre trying to poke, obviously, go with a 9.5" width wheel. Have fun with hitting the sliding door. Youll need to camber to make it work though, but youll have to run a massive amount of camber to make the wheel and tire flush with the fender, or you'll poke. Also, you WILL be rubbing, even with rolling the fenders. the bumper tabs stick out too much on the rear that it will rub without being shaved.


No one really plays around with these cars too much in terms of stancing the car out, even more so the japanese bloggers I frequently visit. So i took a gamble and it plays out really well. I guess you can say most of the success was from playing around with the wheel fitments that I had on the mazda5 previously.

I am on AirREX suspension, so measurements need to be accurate to the millimeter to make everything fit.

Following up on this post, x8.5 +45 & x9.5 +45 fits on 2011-2013 models with no fender work, depending on tire size. I got them to fit with a 215/35 and 225/35, and it barley clears my coilovers. The rim wont rub, but even with stretched tires, the tire will slightly rub on the inside, so you would need atleast a 5mm spacer on both front and back to be safe.
 
Yeah I drive my 5 too fast to go that low... but it still looks nice! Thanks for the update!
No problem! Just finishing up the MZ5 for my daily, than I'll be getting a Miata again. So far I've tested 19x8.5 +35 & 19x9.5 +35 & they all clear with a 215/35 and 225/35 tire. I've also done a 18x9 +40, but that does not clear the coilover, it pretty much rests on the coilover, so a 5-10 mm spacer would be needed. I'll try on my cousins 18x9.5 +20 wheels to see how that fits. Fenders are rolled just so the inner lip doesn't cut into the tire.
 
Yeah I've found wheel clearance against the struts to be an issue, but only in the front so far. The rear seems like it would fit a 17x9 for me if I really wanted to shove a 255/40 tire back there- but that's somewhat pointless to me from a function point of view. Would look damn sweet though. :)
 
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