D Prepared Miata Build

[Rockin03mp5]

1990 miata - 0 windshield - really tall roll bar.

lol

 

[aMaff]

Well, here are the numbers:

1st, the "heartbreak" dyno from DIY AutoTune (that's what they call it, I didn't make it up LOL). It's a hub dyno, so they're obviously not WHP numbers.

But to have an apples-to-apples comparo to what we were making before, I swung by a new dyno shop in town with a DynoJet (which is what I'd always used... they're plentiful and pretty consistent from dyno to dyno).
Went from 114 whp / 98 wtq to this:

Yeah... I'll take that (mj)

 

[lizardman743]

Cool thread and build. Subbin'!

 

[aMaff]

Barry (Jackelope on here, aka BDTGFX) delivers again.

Oddly enough, the DIYAutoTune stickers I'm running this year thanks to their help and sponsorship, were also done by Barry (though, I got them from DIY-AT lol)

 

[Rockin03mp5]

you need a "my roll bar is bigger than your roll bar" sticker on your roll bar.

lol

 

[aMaff]

you need a "my roll bar is bigger than your roll bar" sticker on your roll bar.

lol

HAHAHAHAHA I need to get Barry on that. But honestly, Jeg has the biggest rollbar of all

 

[Rockin03mp5]

yeah he does.

awe... you deleted my double post.

 

[sm76]

Saw the pictures in the motorsports thread. So how was it? Sure looked like it would be fun!

 

[aMaff]

It was fun, but cold. Cold cold cold cold. Like, after 4 runs the tires were still cold to the touch. After 8 they were barely discernible as "warm" relative to ambient. 42 degree ambient with 30 mph winds.

Next event is in 2 weeks, hopefully there will be a bit of heat out. Our tires felt like rocks.

On the flip side, the torque & acceleration this thing is able to deliver with the tuning is insane (given that it's a stock, 1.6L miata). I'm used to waiting and waiting and waiting for speed to build. Not anymore. Even when we had a section where short-shifting to 3rd was the fast way 'round, there was no bog or lack of throttle response. I'm going to have to learn to be a bit more discriminate with the throttle.


Next steps: Finish putting the Torsen diff together. That'll happen probably next week. It needs it BADLY. At this point it's a matter of pressing in the new bushings in the carrier, bolting the carrier to the diff, and swapping everything over (axles, driveshaft, and diff all have to be changed). Fortunately none of those tasks individually are terribly difficult.

The car also needs an oil change (which will happen at the same time while the car's off the ground) in a bad kind of way

 

[aMaff]

Crap. I need to stop looking at the internet. To buy or not to buy? *sigh*

MIATA FIBERGLASS HOOD (90-95) - $325.00

ISCR Weight: 16 LBS with molded in headlight covers
Stock ALUMINUM Weight: 18 LBS without headlight covers


I REALLY want to "fix" the barndoor covers. But I'm not sure I want to do away with the hood hinges (it would be 4 or 6 hood-pins to hold the thing down. 2 at the front, 2 near the fenders, 2 at the back on the cowl).

Any thoughts? We don't really pop the hood THAT much, and if we do, it'll be pretty easy to put on / off.

 

[THE Phen]

I say more power!

 

[Shadow102]

Crap. I need to stop looking at the internet. To buy or not to buy? *sigh*

MIATA FIBERGLASS HOOD (90-95) - $325.00

ISCR Weight: 16 LBS with molded in headlight covers
Stock ALUMINUM Weight: 18 LBS without headlight covers


I REALLY want to "fix" the barndoor covers. But I'm not sure I want to do away with the hood hinges (it would be 4 or 6 hood-pins to hold the thing down. 2 at the front, 2 near the fenders, 2 at the back on the cowl).

Any thoughts? We don't really pop the hood THAT much, and if we do, it'll be pretty easy to put on / off.

doo eeeettt...so tired of the hitch dent in the hood lol

 

[sm76]

I say wait for a carbon fiber hood. My stock protege hood was 31 lbs, carbon fiber is 10 and it is strong enough I still use it hinged as normal without hood pins.

 

[aMaff]

This is the lightest readily available 1 piece hood for an early miata. Anything else would be custom. The carbon hoods are heavier than stock and don't include the barndoor covers.

 

[bullshark524]

$325 seems a bit high for 2 lbs and a couple pages back you said that with the windshield off you would be right at the minimum weight so im going witth the phen and saying go for power

 

[sm76]

This is the lightest readily available 1 piece hood for an early miata. Anything else would be custom. The carbon hoods are heavier than stock and don't include the barndoor covers.

In that case, the fiberglass is definitely the easy way to go.

 

[aMaff]

$325 seems a bit high for 2 lbs and a couple pages back you said that with the windshield off you would be right at the minimum weight so im going witth the phen and saying go for power

I won't be at minimum weight after we start ballasting the car. Also we're going to be picking up a little more weight with the Torsen diff over the 1.6L diff. It's not just about the 2 lbs, which is a bonus, as much as it is a 1 piece hood w/ the barn-door covers.

 

[bullshark524]

why not just weld barn door covers onto the stock hood?

 

[aMaff]

The covers are steel and the hood is aluminum. Not impossible, but a huge pain in the @$$ to do properly (and wouldn't be any cheaper than just buying the "right" thing)

 

[Shadow102]

I won't be at minimum weight after we start ballasting the car. Also we're going to be picking up a little more weight with the Torsen diff over the 1.6L diff. It's not just about the 2 lbs, which is a bonus, as much as it is a 1 piece hood w/ the barn-door covers.

arent you going to be picking up more weight from the rest of the cage build iirc thats not finished either?