Cobb AP Discussion Thread

I am currently looking into picking up a Cobb AP, and decided to read up a little bit on it before purchasing to make sure I understand it completely. Love what the reviews I hear from it, and am eager to purchase it, but I cannot find a map that suits me well. If anyone more familiar with the maps on the Cobb Site (or the other site with the other maps that was linked in the beginning of this thread) could help me out in figuring out which map would better suit my MS6 (refer to signature for mods)? By the way, I do live in Las Vegas where 93 octane is very hard to comeby, so 91 octane is what I am restricted to using.

Thanks a lot!
 
even the stage 1 91 +SRI map makes the car get up and go. its better to run a lower mods map then it is to overshoot for what you dont have.

once the install takes place switching maps is like a 6 min wait lol so just play around.
 
Yes, that is the correct kit. Feel free to contact KMD directly if you want. I have no interest in the company. I originally bought mine through Ken @ PG when there were so many problems with the MAXFLO kits he was selling. I'm not sure if Ken is still selling the KMDs though. He lists the PTP version on his web site now. Suit yourself on which kit, but if you have them all in front of you (like I did) and inspect them closely, you would likely chose the KMD kit, (I did). The KMD kit comes with hardened split locks and retainer just like ALL valve springs are retained with where the PTP kit reuses the OEM retainer.

The OEM retainer is a very good, single-piece design, yet can be VERY difficult to remove for many people making it and your OEM & new piston very susceptable to damage during the process. I used the KMD retainer setup and kept my OEM piston/sleeve for back up in case of future need. Now, PTP touts the fact they reuse the original retainer, which is fine, but certainly no big advantage IMO. YMMV.

Note that the MAXFLO kit had incredibly poor quality split locks and retainer that are literally junk. I threw them in the trash immediately so no one would ever attempt to use them....


Thanks for all the info.

This gives me ALOT more to think about.

As for my pressures though.

do you see the pressure taper off to even as low as 500 when you hit cruising speed? This is normal?

As well how worried should I be about going wot if I am dipping below 1400 PSI at 5000-6000 RPM?
 
Thanks for all the info.

This gives me ALOT more to think about.

As for my pressures though.

do you see the pressure taper off to even as low as 500 when you hit cruising speed? This is normal?

As well how worried should I be about going wot if I am dipping below 1400 PSI at 5000-6000 RPM?


Hmmm, I'm not sure of your definition of cruising, but the FP will drop when there is no load on the engine, so if cruising and VERY light throttle, you may close the TPS enough for the Spill Valve Solenoid to open up and drop the fuel pressure. As for WOT, if you NEVER see anything below say ~1200-1400, then your pump is working fine for your mod level. As you ask for more power (= more fuel) the FP will almost surely start to fall off at WOT. Monitor it closely.
 
Hmmm, I'm not sure of your definition of cruising, but the FP will drop when there is no load on the engine, so if cruising and VERY light throttle, you may close the TPS enough for the Spill Valve Solenoid to open up and drop the fuel pressure. As for WOT, if you NEVER see anything below say ~1200-1400, then your pump is working fine for your mod level. As you ask for more power (= more fuel) the FP will almost surely start to fall off at WOT. Monitor it closely.

Gotcha Thanks!

new fuel pump internals it is!

I think I am going KMD over PTP after what you said in previous posts.
 
DHFile.jpg


My first DH run, rolling 0-60 or so. Educate me before I start bolting on.
 
Gotcha Thanks!

new fuel pump internals it is!

I think I am going KMD over PTP after what you said in previous posts.

After Forzda recommeneded KMD, I've found more and more good stories about KMD. PTP's are still new to the market, and that worries me, along with the 'break in' period you have to go through with them.

BacDoc, that log looks good, your fuel pressure stays above 1500, no KR, but you didn't log boost on there, what gives?
 
DHFile.jpg


My first DH run, rolling 0-60 or so. Educate me before I start bolting on.

Looks good for first try! What we really need to see to check FP is RPM, ABS Thrt, Boost/Vac, FP, & KR. Log a run in 3rd of 4th gear at WOT from ~3k rpm to redline.

The DH is limited number of PIDs (5) for each log, so it depends on what you need to tune or check to select the PIDs.

So..., for AFR we need RPM, MAF, ABS Thrt, Act AFR, & KR
 
ok idk whats wrong but my ltft wont go down anyone help pleaseeeeeee

Dude, you can't just come in here and post a blanket statement like that and expect help. We need more info and explanation on what's been going on with your car so that you can get an answer.
 
Looks good for first try! What we really need to see to check FP is RPM, ABS Thrt, Boost/Vac, FP, & KR. Log a run in 3rd of 4th gear at WOT from ~3k rpm to redline.

The DH is limited number of PIDs (5) for each log, so it depends on what you need to tune or check to select the PIDs.

So..., for AFR we need RPM, MAF, ABS Thrt, Act AFR, & KR

If I knew how to do that ... :lol:
 
Can some one send me the link to adjusting the throttle tables to the 1:1 that people were discussing earlier?
 
I just noticed that i boost higher with the stage 1 91 map then with the stage 1 91 sftih map. Anyone have a good theory as to why this may be? i know this because i set my dh alarm's and alerts based on the stage 1 91 sftih map, temp's have stayed close to the same, and the simple stage 1 91 map is setting the boost alarm off like mad. lol. Dont get me wrong, the car seems like its faster now, and the weird under boost suction noise has changed for the better.
 
I believe that Cobb actually tunes their maps that way (perhaps to avoid boost spikes).

I was reading some map notes the other day and the +sf tunes called for lower boost (albeit .5 to 1lbs less).
 
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