question about dashawk

[kooofie]

OK this sound like a really stupid question...but i have cobb ap and i want to get a dash hawk to log some things but you cant plug them both in at the same time which is better for logging...or can i plug both in at the same time?

also what kind of afr should i be hitting...or maybe someone can link me to another forum topic

 

[Nigelo]

You can buy an OBD splitter, but I can't remember if I read on a forum somewhere that you can't use both at the same time. (not much help from me there, I sure someone'll be along in a mo with the right answer!)

AFR's change quite a bit, idle should be around the 13's-high 14's, WOT should drop to around 8 (not entirely sure - scared to do WOT's until my fuel pump internals arrive), in-gear no throttle coasting should see way up to 29 on the dashhawk.

Those are rough values, and I dont know or think they are the optimums to be looking for if you were about to do some tuning. Noticing that you have quite a few mods to help the car 'breathe' you may be finding the AFR's running a bit higher (leaner) - hope your fuel pump is up to the task! Dont want any more zoom-zoom-booms!

Im only really a noob, so hopefully a more knowledgable person'll will speak up!

 

[hugador]

AFR in the 8s during WOT is horrible lol. Between 12s and 9s AFR are considered safe to some. I like DH better for logging.

 

[hugador]

Oh and yes at idle and daily driving AFR should be in the 14s. It would be helpful if an expert or anyone who have a better understanding on fuel trims open a thread on what we should be looking at. Since these question always seems to pop up when a person get themselves a monitoring device and wants to know how to use it.

 

[khoney]

You can buy an OBD splitter, but I can't remember if I read on a forum somewhere that you can't use both at the same time. (not much help from me there, I sure someone'll be along in a mo with the right answer!)

AFR's change quite a bit, idle should be around the 13's-high 14's, WOT should drop to around 8 (not entirely sure - scared to do WOT's until my fuel pump internals arrive), in-gear no throttle coasting should see way up to 29 on the dashhawk.

Those are rough values, and I dont know or think they are the optimums to be looking for if you were about to do some tuning. Noticing that you have quite a few mods to help the car 'breathe' you may be finding the AFR's running a bit higher (leaner) - hope your fuel pump is up to the task! Dont want any more zoom-zoom-booms!

Im only really a noob, so hopefully a more knowledgable person'll will speak up!

CAN is a cooperative multi-master type of bus, so I see no reason why you couldn't use them both. Besides, AFAIK the Dashhawk is only listening.

 

[kooofie]

so if they drop into the 8s during WOT i need a new fuel pump or internals is really what ur saying.....

 

[Nigelo]

Nope, the opposite! If you're hitting 8's then that means more fuel to air (a rich mix) which would mean your pump would be working too well. too high an afr (10?) or low a pump pressure (<1300) would mean your pump was screwed.

 

[matsuda]

CAN is a cooperative multi-master type of bus, so I see no reason why you couldn't use them both. Besides, AFAIK the Dashhawk is only listening.

For every parameter that is displayed on a OBD monitor (DH, etc.), a command is sent by the monitoring device to request the data.

 

[kooofie]

mines hitting around 11.5 at WOT around 5th gear

 

[Nigelo]

I think that is really not good! Be careful with your right foot- hopefully someone who really understands our engine will chime in with the definitive view. :s

 

[kooofie]

i thought 11.5 is good

 

[H3br3w_Ham3r]

I think that is really not good! Be careful with your right foot- hopefully someone who really understands our engine will chime in with the definitive view. :s

I would stop giving advice if you don't know what good is. (nuts)

11.5 is safe. I am at higher 12's at WOT and many tuners think that is a good goal.

Also do not look at air fuel ratios for insight into needing a fuel pump upgrade. Look at fuel PSI. You can run lean and not need a fuel pump but just a tune.

 

[Nigelo]

I would stop giving advice if you don't know what good is. (nuts)

Just trying to be helpful and trying to keep the thread bumped up becuase Im wondering about the same issues. And I have stated several times in this thread that Im a noob and would appreciate some one truly knowledgable chiming in. (shrug)

 

[H3br3w_Ham3r]

Just trying to be helpful and trying to keep the thread bumped up becuase Im wondering about the same issues. And I have stated several times in this thread that Im a noob and would appreciate some one truly knowledgable chiming in. (shrug)

Haha don't take offense its a forum. BTW whats up with the avatar?

 

[Nigelo]

Found this random pic and it made me chuckle! And I have no idea what the "convicted" text is for though!

 

[H3br3w_Ham3r]

Found this random pic and it made me chuckle! And I have no idea what the "convicted" text is for though!

It made me laugh too but I was wondering about the convicted part lol

 

[P&L Motorsports]

I would start by checking for boost leaks. In a Mass air environment, if you have any post turbo compressor leak, you're going to hemorrhage air to the atmosphere, but continuously meter it coming in.

If you think about it, the fuel makes it in.... but not the air to burn it. 9 out of 10 times... a simple boost leak is all it takes.

Build a simple manifold pressure tester (about $10 in parts at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc), and test it at home.

You can see how we do the test on Subaru's via a document we have on our website. www.pandlmotorsports.com -> downloads -> "Caring for your vehicle.pdf".

Chapter 2 covers pre-dyno inspection, and specifically doing a boost leak test, you can easily think of how to do the test on your mazda (its written for a Subaru).

HTH!

-Jorge