Independant Throttle Bodies (ITB's/IRTB's)
- Thread starter flat_black
- Start date
1. you would use a vac block - tee-off a vac line from each runner into a common block and run the booster off that. should suffice, but wont be sufficant for tuning, you'll need to tune with throttle position because of the lack of stable vac signal.
2. I thought about this when i was considering going with ITBs - only thing i could come up with was running a vac line from each runner to a block with the idle air control (so you could open a vac leak in each runner independently to idle up, using a solenoid or stepper motor)
flat_black
Member
Actually, the way I dealt with idle air control was to remove any semblance of an IAC valve (With the standalone I was running, I didn't need it) and just adjust the stop plate so it idled at around 800-900 rpm. Worked just dandy for me. =)
yeah thats essentially how i have my single throttle hooked up - standalone = good. Issue is though, that there are circumstances when increased load on the engine requires it to "idle up" (activating the aircon, for instance....or even winding down teh windows....turning a corner whilst decelerating etc) - to do this you need some sort of electronic idle control...and the only way i can think you could do it with quads would be to run a vac block with a solenoid essentially opening each runner up to the same amount of air.
flat_black
Member
Whatcon? =) I dunno what that is... *grins* No air conditioning, but I ran about 900rpm-ish, which works pretty darn well. Actually stopped the dip in charge that was caused by rolling down the windows! Odd, that.
- :
- 03' Mazda Protege 5
subbin to look through more later. You sparked my interest Flat Black on my build thread
flat_black
Member
The short form of the end of this story: I moved to Cali, and sold my IRTB setup, and my standalone.
The new-news: Protege is getting head number 3 put on, this iteration being almost exactly what I want (I think,) I'm ordering up some new ITB's, rigging up a new, more streetable setup, and plumbing it a little closer to stock, with a better manifold design.
I'm getting the TB's from Extrudabody, and getting a custom lower manifold cast (!) by Kevin at DTR (Dreams-To-Reality) Performance Inc, and mated to a 90mm even spaced stack plate, then that to bolt up to a fiberglass plenum to run to the throttle body, et al.
Here's a pic of Kevin's past work, for your viewing pleasure:
The new-news: Protege is getting head number 3 put on, this iteration being almost exactly what I want (I think,) I'm ordering up some new ITB's, rigging up a new, more streetable setup, and plumbing it a little closer to stock, with a better manifold design.
I'm getting the TB's from Extrudabody, and getting a custom lower manifold cast (!) by Kevin at DTR (Dreams-To-Reality) Performance Inc, and mated to a 90mm even spaced stack plate, then that to bolt up to a fiberglass plenum to run to the throttle body, et al.
Here's a pic of Kevin's past work, for your viewing pleasure:
flat_black
Member
Well... Yes. But remember, at that point, you'll be running in SM, at least. =) The big boys play in that league. While I do that stuff mostly for fun, if you want to be competitive in SM, it's really quite hard! And not something I'd suggest to try for any daily driven car.
yea... i kinda like STS.... maybe if i can hide it they wont know.... haha and i'll try to make up a story why its so loud.... but i've always wanted ITBs ever since i've seen them... how come a turbo would only put me in STX and ITBs in SM... i really commend you for pulling this off.... but to get back on topic.... there's more than one way to pull this off, right? other than your setup?
flat_black
Member
Oh, totally. Lots of good options on different ITB layouts. Longer runners, plenum, open elements, no MAF/MAP, TPS-only setups... But the standalone is what would really get you in autocross.
flat_black
Member
Oooh... There you go! =)
My head is fully ported, down to the valve faces, and combustion chambers polished, etcetera, so I guess the YMMV clause may apply.
My head is fully ported, down to the valve faces, and combustion chambers polished, etcetera, so I guess the YMMV clause may apply.
Throttle position only represents load. It doesn't tell you how much air is being ingested.
red95_240sx
Member
on a mazda protege?
MAP is only an indication of load also.
under vac conditions, TPS and RPM should be all you need to tune a car running IRTBs.
In fact, this is the PREFERRED method (recommended by aftermarket ecu manufacturers) for tuning a car with IRTBs - because it is difficult to get a consistent vac signal with these set ups.
Of course you still use MAP - any ecu worth its salt will swap from TPS/RPM load tuning to MAP tuning the second the MAP sensor reads anything over 0"hg - so if due to a well tuned set up you start seeing slight positive pressure, the engine can be tuned to deal with it.
bug man nrg
Member
ITB set up
where do guy get your info from?
step 1 you need to tap each runner with 1/8 NPT
step 2 fit a vacum block also with 1/8 NPT fittings
step 3 set one of the outlet for you FPR and one for your map and one for your brake's
step 4 if you are running a MAF you will need a sealed plenum at the end of your ITB,s instead of just a air filter
step start car and check for leaks
step 6 is where you sink your ITBs to = or - 1lb at 900 rpm
step 7 slowly bring up your RPM's to around 3500 or so .at this point you need to set AFR with your wide band
PS you can run ITBs on a OEM ecu all day long
do your home work before you spend your cash
emerald performance
where do guy get your info from?
step 1 you need to tap each runner with 1/8 NPT
step 2 fit a vacum block also with 1/8 NPT fittings
step 3 set one of the outlet for you FPR and one for your map and one for your brake's
step 4 if you are running a MAF you will need a sealed plenum at the end of your ITB,s instead of just a air filter
step start car and check for leaks
step 6 is where you sink your ITBs to = or - 1lb at 900 rpm
step 7 slowly bring up your RPM's to around 3500 or so .at this point you need to set AFR with your wide band
PS you can run ITBs on a OEM ecu all day long
do your home work before you spend your cash
emerald performance
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