Protege 5 rust

America, what about your Japanese car Canuck?


Hey, I've been driving Canadian "Salt-ways" and "Stone-chip-lanes" for over 10 years..... I still have not owned a car that did not rust..... I do have a problem with the $1200 dollar estimate to fix my badge-rust problem but such is life.... Metal is made to corrode, Cars die and America will always find cheaper and crappier ways to make cars that stupid people like us buy. I figure, if it's fun to drive, go till you can see the ground through the floorboards. Then put a 2x4 in there to cover the hole and go for a while longer! Just think of all the good laughs you've had at the rust buckets driving beside you.... The world needs laughter and I'm willing to help for a while...(rofl)
 
I know of black and silver POR15 to protect from rust, i think the clear is a topcoat.Make sure you coat the POR15 with regular paint or clearcoat because UV will degrade and dull it.

there are 3 types of por 15, which one u use for exterior?should i go for sem-gloss black or just clear?
 
Anytime. i'm bout to sand my rear wheel lips to metal and coat with the black por15 then spray metallic black over it. Do you inner fenderwells and undercarriage, use a wire wheel on a drill to loosen the rust then blow it off with compressed air before applying the por 15.**** salt and rust I hate both of em
thx a lot bro, will get the por 15 and fix the rust asap.
 
Anytime. i'm bout to sand my rear wheel lips to metal and coat with the black por15 then spray metallic black over it. Do you inner fenderwells and undercarriage, use a wire wheel on a drill to loosen the rust then blow it off with compressed air before applying the por 15.**** salt and rust I hate both of em


i have bubble rust around the '' protege 5'' on hatch..and chipped rust on the roof...damn..

btw, how's the outcome after u diy fixed with the Por 15, looking good?
 
End of last summer I coated any place I saw rust any where on the car including undercarriage, rear wheelwells/lips, hatch inne lip, inside rear doors on the b pillar seams. So far the only reoccurrence has been slight spots on the undercarriage and the inside edge of the rear wheel lips. I am going to sand the rear wheelwell lips to bare metal, which I didn't do last summer and re-coat with Por15, then topcoat with metallic black.If you apply the POR15 over the paint without taking the area to bare metal, it will peel,as it doesn't adhere well to paint, that was my 1st time using it, so now I know it must be taken to bare metal. Any areas where I didn't use high pressure water,from the hand wash in winter,remained as they were after last summer's application. We had an extrememly harsh and heavy snowfall winter season here in Mich.last winter with excessive amounts of salt, so I had to spray the car often at the hand wash. I do have some dime sized or smaller spots on the roof from gravel hits(**** the scumbag Mich. gravelhaulers(fu) that have also broken my windshields and fog lights)that I never treated, but will be sanding down only within the spots and apply the POR15 smoothly as possible, topcoat with black metallic and rub the entire roof out with different polish stages and my rotary polisher. To see true effectiveness of POR15's ability will be when it's looked at carefully after a long hard winter.To the guy who spent $240 on the repair, good luck, before I knew about POR 15, I had that done too and it came back, but I spent more than you did and I wont do it again, I will do it myself and save the money. I actually enjoy taking the time to correct these problems on my own. I do not (knock on wood) have rust around my emblems, but if it's not too deep you might still be able to stop it with some time and effort.


i have bubble rust around the '' protege 5'' on hatch..and chipped rust on the roof...damn..

btw, how's the outcome after u diy fixed with the Por 15, looking good?
 
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End of last summer I coated any place I saw rust any where on the car including undercarriage, rear wheelwells/lips, hatch inne lip, inside rear doors on the b pillar seams. So far the only reoccurrence has been slight spots on the undercarriage and the inside edge of the rear wheel lips. I am going to sand the rear wheelwell lips to bare metal, which I didn't do last summer and re-coat with Por15, then topcoat with metallic black.If you apply the POR15 over the paint without taking the area to bare metal, it will peel,as it doesn't adhere well to paint, that was my 1st time using it, so now I know it must be taken to bare metal. Any areas where I didn't use high pressure water,from the hand wash in winter,remained as they were after last summer's application. We had an extrememly harsh and heavy snowfall winter season here in Mich.last winter with excessive amounts of salt, so I had to spray the car often at the hand wash. I do have some dime sized or smaller spots on the roof from gravel hits(**** the scumbag Mich. gravelhaulers(fu) that have also broken my windshields and fog lights)that I never treated, but will be sanding down only within the spots and apply the POR15 smoothly as possible, topcoat with black metallic and rub the entire roof out with different polish stages and my rotary polisher. To see true effectiveness of POR15's ability will be when it's looked at carefully after a long hard winter.To the guy who spent $240 on the repair, good luck, before I knew about POR 15, I had that done too and it came back, but I spent more than you did and I wont do it again, I will do it myself and save the money. I actually enjoy taking the time to correct these problems on my own. I do not (knock on wood) have rust around my emblems, but if it's not too deep you might still be able to stop it with some time and effort.

Hey man, this product looks great, I was wondering if you could tell me which products you got from POR 15 that you used and which paint you used to top coat it. Thanks man.
 
From the website;check it out.I will be using duplicolor spray as a topcoat for the small areas
http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/
POR-15<SUP></SUP> is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to an incredible rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from recurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture.
Use it to coat rusty frames, floor pans, farm equipment, marine equipment, or even a heavily corroded battery tray.
POR-15<SUP></SUP> is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight.
Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight.


<TABLE id=AutoNumber1 style="BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" borderColor=#111111 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="40%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width="38%">Pint............</TD><TD width="62%"> $29.95</TD></TR><TR><TD width="38%">Quart.........</TD><TD width="62%"> $44.95</TD></TR><TR><TD width="38%">Gallon........</TD><TD width="62%">$143.00</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>




Hey man, this product looks great, I was wondering if you could tell me which products you got from POR 15 that you used and which paint you used to top coat it. Thanks man.
 
Anyone know where in Canada i could pick up this por15. Would love to do the underside. Also where is the best place to get the touch up paint?
 
I've followed this thread and I've become concerned. So the P5 is prone to rusting. I have a P5 in good condition and here's the situation. I plan to keep this car for at least another six years. That's a 13 year old car. Yeah, it's a long time. The car's mileage is only at 25,000 though. I do everything I can to avoid driving it, cause this car has to last me a long time. I baby the car obsessively. I don't accelerate hard. I release the clutch gently every time. Miguiar's NXT polymer wax provides a monthly coat. Oil is changed every 6000miles, synthetic only with amsoil filters. I've bought a $200 car cover for it. You can tell I love my Protege 5.

After reading all the grief of P5 rust problems, I couldn't resist facing the weakness. Ok, I've bought 24oz POR 15. I plan to apply this stuff to the wheel wells and the undercarriage. Apparently the stuff works well according to automotive resoration review sources, but with every modification made to the car, there's risk. The biggest issue being my lack of mechanical experience. I'm not to dextrous with my fingers and I could spill this stuff on my brake pads, rims, and tire. It's a very adhesive substance. The manufacturer testifies spills on skin sticking for days. Also, what if the paint covers a freely moving part? Gosh! So many ways to screw up. I don't want to hurt my P5.

I guess what I'm asking here is whether I should find a professional to apply the stuff. If I do it myself, where should I seek advice? Are there any other rust preventative measures you guys know about?
 
1st of all where do you live? 2nd you don't want to coat painted undercarriage surfaces, it will peel off.If there is no rust showing there is no need to use it.change the oil every 3000 since it takes so long for you to put miles on the car, go by time intervals not mileage.What color is the car?

I've followed this thread and I've become concerned. So the P5 is prone to rusting. I have a P5 in good condition and here's the situation. I plan to keep this car for at least another six years. That's a 13 year old car. Yeah, it's a long time. The car's mileage is only at 25,000 though. I do everything I can to avoid driving it, cause this car has to last me a long time. I baby the car obsessively. I don't accelerate hard. I release the clutch gently every time. Miguiar's NXT polymer wax provides a monthly coat. Oil is changed every 6000miles, synthetic only with amsoil filters. I've bought a $200 car cover for it. You can tell I love my Protege 5.

After reading all the grief of P5 rust problems, I couldn't resist facing the weakness. Ok, I've bought 24oz POR 15. I plan to apply this stuff to the wheel wells and the undercarriage. Apparently the stuff works well according to automotive resoration review sources, but with every modification made to the car, there's risk. The biggest issue being my lack of mechanical experience. I'm not to dextrous with my fingers and I could spill this stuff on my brake pads, rims, and tire. It's a very adhesive substance. The manufacturer testifies spills on skin sticking for days. Also, what if the paint covers a freely moving part? Gosh! So many ways to screw up. I don't want to hurt my P5.

I guess what I'm asking here is whether I should find a professional to apply the stuff. If I do it myself, where should I seek advice? Are there any other rust preventative measures you guys know about?
 
I'm gathering information for rust repair and I'm wondering if I will need a angle grinder or power drill?
In most the video's I've been watching, they have used a power drill with a disk pad attached. I only have a 14v cordless power drill, does this have enough juice to do the job?
Also can the Protege emblem be saved if I'm doing repair to that area.
 
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