AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

i got another stupid question....
but does the SSAFC in anyway defeat fuel cut like the JoeP FCD?

btw... mine doesn't kick my ecu into open loop either when it's supposed to

and if anyone knows.... how does the ecu no when to engage fuel cut(for example MAF, MAP, etc voltage?)
 
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Afc V3 is now installed with the supermap for now..and to be honest, I don't feel any difference!! If I look at my wideband, I especially don't see the Afc kick the car into open loop at 1.1psi..knor at 2-3-4-5 psi. It kinda does what it use to do "stock"...which is, open loop kicks in at 4.5k rpm. Btw I'm only boosting 7-8psi.

Eveything is hooked up right...checked and reloaded the map 3 times. All settings are good, the only thing I haven't done is reset the ecu each and every time I reloaded the map. I can't see that making any difference.

Any comments or suggestions would be great, thanks!

the supermap is a map for all cars it may not change the way some cars run to get the most out of it your gonna have to get it tuned all cars are different
 
i got another stupid question....
but does the SSAFC in anyway defeat fuel cut like the JoeP FCD?

btw... mine doesn't kick my ecu into open loop either when it's supposed to

and if anyone knows.... how does the ecu no when to engage fuel cut(for example MAF, MAP, etc voltage?)
It does defeat fuel cut to an extent because you're actually limiting the voltage the ECU is seeing from the ECU. This is what causes fuel cut in the first place. Fuel cut occurs when the MAF outputs a voltage greater than 5V. Do it too much and you'll through a MAF voltage too high CEL. As long as you're lowering numbers in the AFC table you're actually reducing the voltage the ECU sees from the MAF.

Also, no matter what you think it's still going into open loop at 1.1 psi. It's just that the stock open loop tune isn't all that bad at lower RPM. It's only at the higher RPM that the stock ECU is tuned so rediculously rich.
 
Also, no matter what you think it's still going into open loop at 1.1 psi. It's just that the stock open loop tune isn't all that bad at lower RPM. It's only at the higher RPM that the stock ECU is tuned so rediculously rich.

This is my scenario...I only notice it going into open loop from 0 vac when the car is cold with an AFR of 10..which it did stock(ecu) anyway.

When the car warms up or after I turn the car off and restart it, it does exactly what it did stock...it stays in closed loop (13-14.7 afr's) at full boost until 4k...then floods to 10.

If anything...I thought the AFC would make my car react like it does cold(open loop) all the time or after 1.1psi.

All this to say that , yes I've seen the AFC modify the fuel in the higher rpm's inconsistently but it does not trick the ecu to go into open...it seems to only work when the ecu tells the AFC it's in open loop.
 
This is my scenario...I only notice it going into open loop from 0 vac when the car is cold with an AFR of 10..which it did stock(ecu) anyway.

When the car warms up or after I turn the car off and restart it, it does exactly what it did stock...it stays in closed loop (13-14.7 afr's) at full boost until 4k...then floods to 10.

If anything...I thought the AFC would make my car react like it does cold(open loop) all the time or after 1.1psi.

All this to say that , yes I've seen the AFC modify the fuel in the higher rpm's inconsistently but it does not trick the ecu to go into open...it seems to only work when the ecu tells the AFC it's in open loop.
Using the stock supermap my car did the same thing. Normal AFR's until around 5000 RPM and then it went really rich. After playing with the tune for a while I got everything straight. I can now easily see and feel when the car goes into open loop.

How steady are the AFR's after 1.1 psi? Right now, my AFR's steadily decrease from 14.7:1 at 0 psi down to 11.5:1 by about 5 psi. The only thing that tells me the car is in open loops is that my wideband does not fluctuate as much as it does in closed loop.
 
Using the stock supermap my car did the same thing. Normal AFR's until around 5000 RPM and then it went really rich. After playing with the tune for a while I got everything straight. I can now easily see and feel when the car goes into open loop.

I'm going to start datalogging and see whats up. I hope the changes I make will convince me this thing is doing it's job.

How steady are the AFR's after 1.1 psi? Right now, my AFR's steadily decrease from 14.7:1 at 0 psi down to 11.5:1 by about 5 psi. The only thing that tells me the car is in open loops is that my wideband does not fluctuate as much as it does in closed loop.

My AFR's when the car is cold and naturally in open loop, are pig rich and steedy.

But when my car is warm and running in closed loop...my AFR's bounce around from 14.7-13 until 4k rpm.

This is why I don't think my unit is working and if it is, it's very inconsistent.

Who knows...I'm trying it out cause I was curious and heard such great things...if it isn't for me, I'll just go back to the mpi tuner.
 
WIDEBAND DATALOGGING WIRING: does anyone know which wires from the AFC connect to the wideband to allow datalogging?? There are two wires on the wideband, and four on the AFC. Thank you!!

Edit: nevermind, I found the PDF file a couple pages back.. so it really doesn't matter which two of the four wires are used, as long as you keep track and enter the info into the software accordingly?
 
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WIDEBAND DATALOGGING WIRING: does anyone know which wires from the AFC connect to the wideband to allow datalogging?? There are two wires on the wideband, and four on the AFC. Thank you!!

Edit: nevermind, I found the PDF file a couple pages back.. so it really doesn't matter which two of the four wires are used, as long as you keep track and enter the info into the software accordingly?
Whoa there, you only need to use one wire from the wideband unless yours is severely different from mine. My AEM has two output wires, a 0-1V and a 0-5V. All of the orange wires on the AFC are 0-5V input wires. For resolution's sake you'll want to use the 0-5V output wire from your wideband (I believe it's the white wire for the AEM) and connect it to one of the orange input wires.
 
i am having problems with the tuning. tried different tunes from first page and they all go lean like 15=16 when WOT. if i slowly acc it does fine but i cant just go wot. anyone have any ideas on what it might be?
 
dose anyone have a map for a MAM FMIC, MAM intake, custom 3" midpipe back exhaust, protege garage (626) intake manifold, forged internals, HKS SSQ BOV, stock turbo and injectors sorry didnt want to look all the way through the 50+pages on this thread?
 
dose anyone have a map for a MAM FMIC, MAM intake, custom 3" midpipe back exhaust, protege garage (626) intake manifold, forged internals, HKS SSQ BOV, stock turbo and injectors sorry didnt want to look all the way through the 50+pages on this thread?
Start with the supermap and work from there. There will be no map that perfectly matches your setup. I think this has been mentioned at least 100 times in this thread. FWIW, I had very similar mods as you do (except the internals but those shouldn't make much of a difference as long as stock compression is retained) and the supermap was a good start. It was good below 4500 RPM but rich above that. Not a hard fix...
 
Hi group,

My name is Peter and I'm at www.japanesemotorworks.com I've been working on Jens' car for about 3 weeks and we've sorted all sorts of bugs out of it. She has loaded the 440 injector map into the ssafc. It runs very nice under partial load, and builds about 11 psi at 4400 RPM up past the redline. The issue is tht it runs rich at all times EXCEPT idle. Idle is about 14.8 to 15.0:1 and we're at about 670 ft. elevation and Baro today is about 29". When we're driving easy (about 15 through 35 % CLV (CLV is SAE J-1930 jargon for Calculated Load/vehicle/ range: 0 -100%) with about 20-30% throttle opening) it is rich about at 11:1 to 12.5:1 stochiometric on the lambda meter. I've asked her to find a way to lean out the mix at lower CLV and to leave it rich under WOT high CLV loads. The MAFS is reading quite acurately, and i've confirmed the acuracey of the lambda meter, so I know that the downloaded map is just a bit rich.

Thanks
 
well the SSAFC only works while it is in boost so its something with the stock ECU and/or sensors, unless you can messed with the setting and have the SSAFC controlling the ECU at low low boost. I had a similar problem and my First O2 sensor was bad. Just an idea, could it be due to have 440cc injectors that it just runs richer? Not sure how the Stock ECU responds to the 440cc. Maybe swap out the injectors and see what it does while its not in boost.


Just a few idea's, most likely wrong.
 
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You may be on to something.. car runs great still, but I did get a code for the 1st O2 sensor no activity on the way home (P0134). It's a fairly new O2 sensor though (dunno). This is Jen now :) Just got home.

well the SSAFC only works while it is in boost so its something with the stock ECU and/or sensors, unless you can messed with the setting and have the SSAFC controlling the ECU at low low boost. I had a similar problem and my First O2 sensor was bad. Just an idea, could it be due to have 440cc injectors that it just runs richer? Not sure how the Stock ECU responds to the 440cc. Maybe swap out the injectors and see what it does while its not in boost.


Just a few idea's, most likely wrong.
 
You may be on to something.. car runs great still, but I did get a code for the 1st O2 sensor no activity on the way home (P0134). It's a fairly new O2 sensor though (dunno). This is Jen now :) Just got home.

Just an idea again, but im not sure how much more lean your running since you got the SSAFC but the leaner you are the hotter the exhaust is, maybe the heat had something to do with it. I have never heard of this from mildy built cars but i know fully built cars will do that, there O2 sensors go alot.
 
You can tune closed loop with the AFC but it's a little more complicated. The member CustomMSP actually posted a good deal of information concerning this some pages back. You'll need to be able to monitor short term and long term fuel trims but being a shop I'm sure that's not a problem. I'd leave the switch to open loop at or around 1.1 psi and tune the rest in closed loop. I have not personally done this myself but the logic seems straightforward. I would NOT set the open loop switch point lower into vacuum. If anything, make sure the AFC's current setting is not having the ECU go into open loop before it sees positive pressure. From my experience ~1 psi is the best switching point. It could be possible the switch point it set to low and the car is switching into open loop and the map isn't appropriate for that setting.
 
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