AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

bad maf or not connected properly?

I connected the wires for the AFC so that one was directly to the MAF (bypassed any wiring through firewall & put wire directly off of sensor), and other directly to ECU and still had symptom. Right now I'm leaning in the direction of a good MAF cleaning - never been done & I have ~137,000 miles on the car. While I'm at it, I'm gonna clean the EGR sensor as well. I figure those are cheap and might get me a resolution. If not, I'm not sure....can't imagine the MAF being shot if it runs fine in stock config....but from what I've read on here stranger things have happened (really hoping it's not though - I need other things too like tires!). Gonna pick up some cleaners tonight and hope to have more answers soon. I'll try to post up what kinda results I get in hopes that it serves the community in the event this ever happens to anyone else.
 
If the car runs fine without the FTC/AFC hooked up, the MAF should be fine. triple check wiring

check the settings for the map on the R4 software. under options, check system settings it should be, Display Mode - vacuum/pressure. Application - Programmable Signal Calibrator, under options, check engine settings are correct, 4cyl, 4 stroke. under options, check Output Settings it should be, PWM - Pressure 0-30 Psi / 3 vdc FS. Output B mode - over pressure. Over pressure - 0 or whatever pressure you want the FTC/AFC to start taking control.

these are good starting points. the map i pulled off the FTC i believe, was set for additional injector controller, which is wrong for the FTC/AFC. so make sure the settings are correct.
 
Thanks for the reply - I've installed the AFC about 4 or 5 times now, and have gone back & forth even w/ SplitSecond (Mark) for diagnosis on the unit itself. The map loaded up is definitely correct - but thanks for the suggestion (never hurts to check it again!). When I revert back to stock setup (AFC removed) and ECU reset, for about the first 20 minutes of driving I'll get a rough idling when at lights, stop signs, etc. I've never really put much thought into that until doing some heavy scouring of threads on here regarding MSP problems.....and now I'm starting to suspect the usual suspects (EGR, MAF sensors). From what I've discussed over the phone with Mark, he was telling me that the AFC is very sensitive to voltage leakage - something I gather basically is making a minor/invisible problem very obvious. Since money is very tight, I'm gonna start by cleaning the sensors...they are overdue for it anyways. If that works, then bonus for me & everyone - if not, I guess I move to the next :).
 
how old is your battery? if more than 5 yrs replace with a new one (perfect oportunity for a optima yellowtop) clean the terminals and connectors of all corrosion, do the same for the alternator. you could try doing one of those earth grounding systems. how many miles on your primary O2 sensor? I find it weird that it's running rich just by hooking up the AFC when those cells of the map are left unchanged.

i'm sure Mark went over proper wiring. make connections as close to the ECU as possible, good grounding for the AFC (mine is grounded to one of the bolts for the ECU cover) if the ground offset between the AFC and the ECU sensors is too high, it will be giving you problems. are your connections soldered?
 
Got a question. Can I use Office 2007 with these maps and files?

no i dont think so excel doesn't recognize the mdb extension. even if it did work it would be pointless cuz you need the R4 software to flash it to the AFC/FTC anyway

EDIT* i just tried open with excel and, when it opens a security alert pops up, you hit enable, then it gives you 3 choices to open, aquisition data, capture data, and unit data. aquisition data looks like the datalogg info in excel format. capture data is just the name and date of the datalog files, and unit data is the info from the main page with customer name and s*** when you open a map on the R4 software
 
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how old is your battery? if more than 5 yrs replace with a new one (perfect oportunity for a optima yellowtop) clean the terminals and connectors of all corrosion, do the same for the alternator. you could try doing one of those earth grounding systems. how many miles on your primary O2 sensor? I find it weird that it's running rich just by hooking up the AFC when those cells of the map are left unchanged.

i'm sure Mark went over proper wiring. make connections as close to the ECU as possible, good grounding for the AFC (mine is grounded to one of the bolts for the ECU cover) if the ground offset between the AFC and the ECU sensors is too high, it will be giving you problems. are your connections soldered?

Battery is about a year old - didn't have the pockets to spring for an Optima yet. I have a grounding kit on the car, and all connections are clean. Primary O2 sensor was replaced about a year and a half ago if memory serves correctly - rarely driven in the winters too so miles haven't been wracked up on it yet...wondering about the 2nd one though further downstream. I have all connections soldered about 3-6 inches from the harness to the ECU....during my last "uninstall" I actually cut the AFC wires and left myself about an extra foot to work with since I kept losing about an inch of wire every time from cutting it out/reconfiguring to stock - didn't want to continue to shorten them anymore. Makes the continuous reinstallations go a bit quicker with easier wire identification though :D. Also with last install I ran a 10-guage copper wire (soldered to AFC ground on one end, crimped ring terminal on other) directly to one of the grounding kit locations on the block. Also, when testing the "only MAF wired" configuration I did an extra test with the MAF wire connected directly to the sensor, about 2 inches from the harness, and the AFC - ECU wire connected off the pigtail I created (6" from ECU harness) with same results.

Trust me....I'm totally with you on the disbelief about what's going on with the car. If the MAF and EGR sensor cleaning doesn't work, I'll be investing in a good voltmeter and go through a series of tests with Mark on the line...he was explaining that if I did that he would be able to diagnose it. Kills me because I've had the AFC for a long time now, and every chance I get to install is unsuccessful!
 
Battery is about a year old - didn't have the pockets to spring for an Optima yet. I have a grounding kit on the car, and all connections are clean. Primary O2 sensor was replaced about a year and a half ago if memory serves correctly - rarely driven in the winters too so miles haven't been wracked up on it yet...wondering about the 2nd one though further downstream. I have all connections soldered about 3-6 inches from the harness to the ECU....during my last "uninstall" I actually cut the AFC wires and left myself about an extra foot to work with since I kept losing about an inch of wire every time from cutting it out/reconfiguring to stock - didn't want to continue to shorten them anymore. Makes the continuous reinstallations go a bit quicker with easier wire identification though :D. Also with last install I ran a 10-guage copper wire (soldered to AFC ground on one end, crimped ring terminal on other) directly to one of the grounding kit locations on the block. Also, when testing the "only MAF wired" configuration I did an extra test with the MAF wire connected directly to the sensor, about 2 inches from the harness, and the AFC - ECU wire connected off the pigtail I created (6" from ECU harness) with same results.

Trust me....I'm totally with you on the disbelief about what's going on with the car. If the MAF and EGR sensor cleaning doesn't work, I'll be investing in a good voltmeter and go through a series of tests with Mark on the line...he was explaining that if I did that he would be able to diagnose it. Kills me because I've had the AFC for a long time now, and every chance I get to install is unsuccessful!

that last ground you used is horrible, use the wire from the AFC harness, solder a ring connector on it and ground it to the ECU plate. clean the plate, the bolt and the stud. like i said ground offset makes a big difference, especially when dealing with 0-5v sensor systems that .1v can make a difference in signal. you'd be surprised.

i would just send it back and have mark test it, or send you a new one and see if that fixes the problem.
 
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I have a question. So today i was using the r4 software and i was trying to upload the SuperStockMap map. After reading it to the ecu. I close it and open a new customer to see if my ecu has the same numbers. All i get are straight 10s until 11.5 psi. But the Superstockmap has 10s till 2.5psi. Am i doing something wrong? Im using Microsoft vista. Im getting really bad hesitation in 4th gear and little in 2nd.
 
I have tried that. It worked fine when i used my old laptop that had XP. Maybe its because im using Vista. Let me see if i can get the old one working. Damn!
 
If your loading the superstock map after connecting to the ssafc it is there. When u open a new customer it will be all tens. You have to read from ssafc to change it to what's loaded.

As for the person running rich. I had that problem along with rough idle plus stalling. Changed my coil packs and now my car runs like a champ. Yes I also cleaned my egr, maf, changed plugs, wires with no positive results. But coil packs changed and whoohoo...
 
I was wondering if a bad alternator could affect the AFC ? The other day, I wanted to start the car and I had no power, no more juice in the battery. Since then I cant run the car with the AFC plugged, it just die after 5sec of running on Idle, I had to switch back to stock ECU setting to be able to drive the car... It is possible that the AFC just lost his map or got "flashed" whatever ? I don't have the laptop with me this week end but we're gonna change the alternator tonight anyways to see if its change something.
 
I was wondering if a bad alternator could affect the AFC ? The other day, I wanted to start the car and I had no power, no more juice in the battery. Since then I cant run the car with the AFC plugged, it just die after 5sec of running on Idle, I had to switch back to stock ECU setting to be able to drive the car... It is possible that the AFC just lost his map or got "flashed" whatever ? I don't have the laptop with me this week end but we're gonna change the alternator tonight anyways to see if its change something.

nop, maybe a cbale came unplugger or something.
as you said, it is FLASHED, so it remains in a non-volatile memory inside the AFC. hence the reason why they are able to ship it wiht a pre-loaded map. another thing, even if it had lost the map, it will default to all 0's and then it will act as if it even wasn't there.
 
I just dont get it then, I tried to replug everything and check if my connection was ok and the car wont run with the AFC plugged in, everything started the other day when I couldnt start the msp because of the battery was down - almost dead alternator... It was running fine before.
 
Yeah that's what I am suspecting, I only used it for 3 months, got it in January w/ ProtegeGarage... What kind of warranty come with the AFC ?
 
I was wondering if a bad alternator could affect the AFC ? The other day, I wanted to start the car and I had no power, no more juice in the battery. Since then I cant run the car with the AFC plugged, it just die after 5sec of running on Idle, I had to switch back to stock ECU setting to be able to drive the car... It is possible that the AFC just lost his map or got "flashed" whatever ? I don't have the laptop with me this week end but we're gonna change the alternator tonight anyways to see if its change something.

Wow that sucks...when you get a chance, you should post your map here. My car did the start...run for 5sec and stall when I installed it. I checked the preloaded map and everything was at 0.
 
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