How To: Progress 22mm Rear Swaybar Installation

A stiffer rear bar will lead to oversteer. The reason your car wont it because those Nexen's are SO goddamn bad that they have ZERO grip and the front ends up snowplowing WAY before the back even gets a chance to break free.
Speak to your own particular setup & experiences. Doesn't cover mine. I will agree that Nexen 3000s would suck for track time as I have stated before in other threads. They do give up performance to the previous high dollar name brand s***. They also are more comfortable for daily driving, which is my car's purpose. The treadwear has been even & considerably better than the previous set alignment aside because both sets got fresh alignments. Never said or implied they were the king s*** of all tires, just good bargain for people wanting reasonble price & performance for everyday driving. Lots of folks recognize the difference between understeer/oversteer & know when snowplowing or other undesirable steering properties are occurring without you having to tell them. If it was I would've said it. I'm not pimping any parts for anyone or implying my setup rules all others just like nobody else's does.
 
Maybe a dumb question but if you replace the rear with a larger stiffer bar to balance the car you should do a front replacement too, correct? I've been looking at the racing beat bars for some time now, actually the Mazda kit with the subframe to be exact.
 
The front sway bar is such a pain to get at..so people dont waste their time to swap it with the MSP one.
 
Don't waste your time. The whole point of a larger rear swaybar is to counter-act understeer. Why negate that but installing a larger front swaybar?
 
Don't waste your time. The whole point of a larger rear swaybar is to counter-act understeer. Why negate that but installing a larger front swaybar?

exactly. Don't worry about the front. Most cost are tuned from the factory to understeer. They do this because understeer is easier for the average driver to correct by just slowing down. Oversteer is harder to correct and will take a little experience or luck to correct because you will need to play the gas and brake along with counter steer. So when they did the MSP with the larger from swaybar they where trying to keep the understeer factor present.

Do a google search on suspension tuning 101 for tuning guides. I'm surprised there's not one here yet. With adjustable suspension like illuminas and most dampining Coilovers u will be able to better balance your suspension.

The most basic rule is:
Stiffer rear less understeer more oversteer
Stiffer front less oversteer more understeer

The trick is to find the sweetspot in tuning your suspension to find that balance.
 
It seems everyone forgets about the fact that MSP comes stock with it.
I don't here them complaining.
 
It seems everyone forgets about the fact that MSP comes stock with it.
I don't here them complaining.
Completely different car with a different weight distribution as well. You forget the MSP's suspension was tuned to the car. The P5/ES suspension, while "sporty", is not tuned specifically to the car.
 
Interesting info, from the FAQ:

The stock suspension for the BJ Proteg can be roughly categorized into 4
groups: Normal, Hard, Sport and MP3/MSP.

The “Normal” suspension has been used only on cars bound for Asian/Pacific
countries. It uses softer springs, no rear sway bar, and a smaller front sway bar
than U.S.-market cars (the actual diameter of this swaybar has not been verified).
The small front swaybar from this model may be useful to reduce understeer for
competition in SCCA Solo II Stock-class competition. Other than this swaybar,
parts from this suspension are probably of little use to U.S. and Canadian
enthusiasts.

The “Hard” suspension uses a 20mm front swaybar and a 16mm rear swaybar
for the 1999-2000 cars. The front swaybar has been increased to 21mm in
2001, possibly to increase understeer "safety" handling. This suspension has
been used on DX & LX U.S. and Canadian-market BJ Protegs. Some models
use different lengths of springs to keep the ride height uniform between cars with
different combinations of optional equipment. However, the spring rates are
always the same; the only difference is the length. The “Sport” suspension has been used on various European, Japanese,
Asian/Pacific 323 and the 2001+ ES and P5. It uses slightly stiffer (by ~15%
than "hard") springs and struts than the “Normal” suspension. The front sway bar
is also larger (22mm) and the rear sway bar is 17mm. The front sway bar has
been increased to 23mm in mid 2002, probably also to increase understeer
"safety" handling. Ride height maybe slightly lower than the “Hard” suspension.

The MP3 suspension uses stiffer springs (10% stiffer than "sport") that lower the
car by about 15mm, a front strut tower brace, stiffer Tokico struts, and larger
swaybars- 25mm front, 19mm rear. Parts from this suspension may be used to
upgrade lesser Protegs; however, the swaybar endlinks on a BJ Proteg attach
to the struts, and the MP3 uses stronger brackets to accommodate the stiffer
swaybars (see Racing Beat's site for more information). If you use MP3 sway
bars without the matching MP3 struts, be prepared to reinforce the strut brackets.
The MazdaSpeed Proteg's suspension design is based off of the MP3's suspen-
sion. It uses even more stiffer springs and Tokico struts. Because the suspension
design is based off of the MP3, the problems mentioned above also were inherited.
 
"air power...

SAFETY FIRST!"

lol or something like that for our new base motto lmao (idhitit)





.....DING 2000 posts
 
Alright, so, i'll be installing my Progress, (Same one pictured in teh OP. lol)

I have a set of AWR rears as well as a set of brand new OEM's

Which to use? I read bad on both through this thread
 
I tired to do everything correctly with the AWRs but no matter what I would still get a lot of noise with them. When I took the AWRs off to replace with some new stockers I noticed that one of them was bent! Structurally, I don't believe the AWRs are any stronger than stock. With the stock endlinks the rear has been noise-free for over 3 months now. I haven't really checked on the endlinks condition but I can't imagine they're screwed up.
 
and you're lowered? With a Progress bar?
Yep, lowered on Tein S-Tech springs (about as low as you can go with springs) with Tokico HP (blue) struts. I've only had the stock endlinks on there for about 3.5 months so there's still plenty of time for failure. I made a pretty lengthy post in the P5 thread that you should check out. I'll be doing some work to the P5 next weekend and I plan on checking out the rear suspension then so I will let you know.
 
yeah, just read it. lol

I am in no rush to install, considering 99% of my driving is straight line and in traffic
 
Eh, I commute 13 miles to work each day and it's 80% straight highway driving. The fun is knowing the bar is back there and that I can fling the P5 around on/off-ramps 25 mph above the suggested speed. Of course, the GT-Spec trunk cage can't be hurting either :)
 
I do 25 + around on and off ramps already with stock suspension! lol

You got pics of the trunk cage? I've been tempted many times by it, but, i use my car to load lots of crap in quite often.

I should jsut buy your dang car already. lmao
 

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