Broken 3rd gear x 3

The only lubricant that we recommend to use with out gear sets is the NEO Synthetic 75w90HD or 75w90RHD gear oil. It's made in the USA and used in all forms of professional upper echelon motorsport. These are a GL5/GL6 API rated lubricants.

The Mazda manual specifies GL-4, I've heard that GL-5 contains sulfer and can cause premature wear or damage to the brass syncro's.
Is this info correct or have the syncros changed over the years and this is no longer an issue?

Our straight cut gears have minimal noise due to the precision and minimal backlash set by our production team. As mentioned previously in other posts, The advantage of the straight cut gears is the minimal stress placed on the transmission housing compared to the helical version. We have had many customers rip the end of the transmission housing apart when pushing extreme horse power.

As an option, we can also supply a housing reinforcement kit which slips into the housing and reinforces the bearing retainers/cups. Fitment of this kit requires precision machining of the transmission case on CNC equipment though.

This is presicely the reason to get strait cut gears. It also sounds like the noise level is at least slightly increased with your helical, so we all may as well go strait cut anyway. (dunno)

We usually supply the parts to replace the OEM items into your transmission. The fitment can usually be performed by any reputable transmission overhaul shop if they have experience overhauling the G-Series. The only technically challenging part is the need to grind the pinion shaft to a set OD for certain gears if you would like to fit the needle roller bearings. We make a large number of variants to suit different customer's requirements.

Can you do this machining for us before they are shipped?
Do you provide the bearings?
 
The Mazda manual specifies GL-4, I've heard that GL-5 contains sulfer and can cause premature wear or damage to the brass syncro's.
Is this info correct or have the syncros changed over the years and this is no longer an issue?



This is presicely the reason to get strait cut gears. It also sounds like the noise level is at least slightly increased with your helical, so we all may as well go strait cut anyway. (dunno)



Can you do this machining for us before they are shipped?
Do you provide the bearings?

Not all GL5 lubricants are brass synchronizer safe. The Neo lubricant is both synchronizer safe and designed for all types of LSD units. It's actually rate up to the now defunct GL6 rating for high offset pinion gears.

The cases have to be machined, so the only options are for us to purchase new cases and machine them before shipping, you send your case or you arrange for a machine shop to perform the work for you in the USA.


The pricing has been posted previously by shane02pro5. To confirm, the pricing is as follows.

1st~4th synchromesh engagement gear set - $3,420 AUD (special for January)
Includes input shaft, and 1st~4th gears. Double synchronizer 3rd gear & or 4th gear is a no cost option. (4th gear double synchro version is Nil stock)

Optional crown wheel and pinion shaft - $1,210 AUD (special price for January)

Gear set + crown wheel and pinion shaft - $4,230 AUD (special price for January)

3rd/4th synchromesh engagement gears - $1,530 AUD (special price for January)

3rd synchromesh engagement gears - $850 AUD
Double synchromesh & or needle roller versions are a no cost option.

4th synchromesh engagement gears - $850 AUD
Double synchromesh & or needle roller versions are a no cost option.
 
I've sent you an e-mail.

If you want the needle roller 3rd and 4th gears, you will have to have your pinion shaft machined/ground to the correct dimensions. Otherwise, they gear will fit straight on.
 
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Keep in mind that today

3,420.00 AUD
= 3,057.81 USD

Also please note the vendor rules if you decide to conduct business here:
Vendor Rules
 
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I'll ask the obvious question here, but what's the (rough) associated cost on custom ratios? I want custom ratios for 1, 2 and 5. 1 needs to be taller, 2 taller by a hair, and 5 I want to be a granny gear.

I know the Puerto rico guys are running alot of custom ratios, and if a straight cut box is (honestly) not that loud, I'll go for it. Like I said, I'm on my 3rd trans. already, somethign has to be done.

On a note to PAR, you should really mass produce and (please) stock a few sets at a time. The Protege community has been waiting a LONG time for an "end all" transmission solution, and it would be beneficial to stock a few sets, as the orders will come pouring in quickly.
 
There are no additional charges for custom ratio's.

These are the ratio's I was thinking of.

1- 3
2- 1.83
3- 1.26
4- 0.95
5- 0.68
Using a 4.38 Final, or raise 4th and 5th a tad and use the 4.11 final. (dunno)

I'm currently using the stock 2.0 ratio's in my PGT and love 5th. It signifigantly reduces my RPM in combination with the 4.11 final. Our stock is .79 with a 4.38
I wouldn't want to go much taller then what i'm running now as I can't shift into 5th until 50MPH.
 
If anyone from the US (or Canada) wants a PAR setup, PM me with exactly what you want, as it looks like I'm going to be putting in an order with them.
 
Kooldino if you havent already, I'd spread the word over on Probetalk, I've seen you over there, and they have the same problems we do.
 
Dana Im only a hop-skip away from ya (well, sorta) but Ill lend a hand on the weekend so we can get the beast back on the road.
 
There are no additional charges for custom ratio's.

These are the ratio's I was thinking of.

1- 3
2- 1.83
3- 1.26
4- 0.95
5- 0.68
Using a 4.38 Final, or raise 4th and 5th a tad and use the 4.11 final. (dunno)

I'm currently using the stock 2.0 ratio's in my PGT and love 5th. It signifigantly reduces my RPM in combination with the 4.11 final. Our stock is .79 with a 4.38
I wouldn't want to go much taller then what i'm running now as I can't shift into 5th until 50MPH.


According to the Protege FAQ, or stock ratios are:

1st gear
3.307:1
3.454:1
2nd gear
1.842:1
1.833:1
3rd gear
1.310:1
1.310:1
4th gear
0.970:1
0.914:1
5th gear
0.755:1
0.680:1
Final Drive
4.105:1
3.409:1
Reverse
3.166:1
3.454:1
For a high powered STREET car, I'd personally recommend something in the ballpark of:

1-2.8 (41 MPH @ 6500RPM)
2-1.55 (75 MPH @ 6500RPM)
3-1.26 (92 MPH @ 6500RPM)
4-.97 (120 MPH @ 6500RPM)
5-.755 (154 MPH @ 6500RPM)

My calculations assume that you're running a 215/45/17.

Basically, decently longer gears on the low end to help with traction, and marginally longer gears on the top end to help the range of the gearbox. I know my ratios might look odd to some, but for a 300+hp FWD Protege, you really need 1 and 2 to be as long as possible. With that amount of power, you don't have a chance in hell to get traction with a stock gear ratio, and you're going to be spinning tires until 3rd gear. Why not take some mechanical advantage away and trade wheel spin for acceleration?

PS - Here's a nice ratio calculator:
http://www.f-body.org/gears/
 
I've sent you an e-mail.

If you want the needle roller 3rd and 4th gears, you will have to have your pinion shaft machined/ground to the correct dimensions. Otherwise, they gear will fit straight on.


I need a 3rd and 4th for my car. Are they billet? How much horsepower can they handle? I will be driving my car daily and dont know which gears to get helical, or straight? Is it neccesary to get the needle bearing conversion for those? what will be the cost shipped to 68152??
 
It could be the answer to their 500 gazillion page Transmission Brainstorm thread......lol
 
It could be the answer to their 500 gazillion page Transmission Brainstorm thread......lol

I've already posted in that thread about the PAR gears.

I'm on ProbeTalk, if you just join up and start advertising you will get your posts removed and possible Banned. You'll have to sign up as a vendor if you want to sell anything. They are pretty strict over there.

Also Probe owners tend to be cheap. There are a few of us who might actually pony up the dough for these but not many. Like I said earlier 2 or 3 is about all id expect. Maybe once these make it into some cars and have a chance to prove themselves you'll get more interest. (dunno)
 
Basically, decently longer gears on the low end to help with traction, and marginally longer gears on the top end to help the range of the gearbox. I know my ratios might look odd to some, but for a 300+hp FWD Protege, you really need 1 and 2 to be as long as possible. With that amount of power, you don't have a chance in hell to get traction with a stock gear ratio, and you're going to be spinning tires until 3rd gear. Why not take some mechanical advantage away and trade wheel spin for acceleration?

I agree 100%.

Just to shoot something out there...but I've always said german car's have the best transmissions..."gear ratio" wise. Would someone know what gear ratio's Porsche or Bmw used in the late 90's.
 

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