I remember when I had a magnaflow on mine for what ended up being far too long. Made the thing horrible on the highway. Much happier with it being stock
What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
- Start date
I remember when I had a magnaflow on mine for what ended up being far too long. Made the thing horrible on the highway. Much happier with it being stock
Stock muffler, de-catted is the way to go. Nice tone, nice volume, not too obnoxious unless you go WOT at every chance you get.
For me its stock muffler, OBX header, stock 2nd cat, and an ebay short ram intake with k&n filter (mainly because my stock airbox developed a crack and it was easier to "upgrade"
-Last Night - for son's recent $750- 2003 P5 purchase, I removed and replaced both rear struts at 155K miles.
Driver's side was making "thunking" noises when hitting bumps and when pushing down on left rear car body.
-Struts purchased are Duralast struts from Autozone.
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822L
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822R
--Maybe not the best and definitely not the cheapest but pressed for time.
--Also didn't know I could have ordered them online and saved 20% with a discount code and next day delivery.
___
STRUTS
-Before removing the struts, I spray-painted the bolts, the struts outer outline, and empty hole of the lower strut mount against the spindles (didn't have a Sharpie) to verify and maintain the new strut's alignment.
-The old struts had a super thin transparency paper plastic "strut mount gasket" installed on the top of the strut and between the wheel-well body to act as some kind of cheap (my guess) vibration isolation damper.
-I used that clear plastic gasket to make my own gasket using foil-backed rubberized "peel-and-stick" waterproofing membrane material, (stuff normally used on roof valleys and edges, and when installing exterior doors and windows) - at least twice the thickness of that plastic gasket) and installed it (stuck) it on the top of the new strut as a vibration (noise) damper.
-Why - Because I had a 2000 Maxima that had no strut mount gaskets at all and it was noisy as hell until I pre-fabricated and installed some improvised gaskets (back then used regular general purpose gasket material and they worked well).
--FYI - Mazda dealerships sell strut mount gaskets for a few other Mazda models including the P5 for about $2.50 plus shipping. Below is a link to a Mazda dealership where you can find them and other parts.
2003 Mazda P5 Strut Mount Gaskets
-I will test drive the car later today and report back how the struts sound and work after installing new brake pads all around (rotors good), Exile shift linkage bushings, and a Megan short (throw) shifter today (weather permitting).
Driver's side was making "thunking" noises when hitting bumps and when pushing down on left rear car body.
-Struts purchased are Duralast struts from Autozone.
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822L
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822R
--Maybe not the best and definitely not the cheapest but pressed for time.
--Also didn't know I could have ordered them online and saved 20% with a discount code and next day delivery.
___
STRUTS
-Before removing the struts, I spray-painted the bolts, the struts outer outline, and empty hole of the lower strut mount against the spindles (didn't have a Sharpie) to verify and maintain the new strut's alignment.
-The old struts had a super thin transparency paper plastic "strut mount gasket" installed on the top of the strut and between the wheel-well body to act as some kind of cheap (my guess) vibration isolation damper.
-I used that clear plastic gasket to make my own gasket using foil-backed rubberized "peel-and-stick" waterproofing membrane material, (stuff normally used on roof valleys and edges, and when installing exterior doors and windows) - at least twice the thickness of that plastic gasket) and installed it (stuck) it on the top of the new strut as a vibration (noise) damper.
-Why - Because I had a 2000 Maxima that had no strut mount gaskets at all and it was noisy as hell until I pre-fabricated and installed some improvised gaskets (back then used regular general purpose gasket material and they worked well).
--FYI - Mazda dealerships sell strut mount gaskets for a few other Mazda models including the P5 for about $2.50 plus shipping. Below is a link to a Mazda dealership where you can find them and other parts.
2003 Mazda P5 Strut Mount Gaskets
-I will test drive the car later today and report back how the struts sound and work after installing new brake pads all around (rotors good), Exile shift linkage bushings, and a Megan short (throw) shifter today (weather permitting).
Attachments
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
Very cool, tj4fa2003P5! A $750 Protege5 sounds like a bargain if the engine and trans is good and it just needs work on the suspension and brakes. Does the car have 155k or is that just the struts? You should post some photos too.-Last Night - for son's recent $750- 2003 P5 purchase, I removed and replaced both rear struts at 155K miles.
Driver's side was making "thunking" noises when hitting bumps and when pushing down on left rear car body.
-Struts purchased are Duralast struts from Autozone.
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822L
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822R
--Maybe not the best and definitely not the cheapest but pressed for time.
--Also didn't know I could have ordered them online and saved 20% with a discount code and next day delivery.
___
STRUTS
-Before removing the struts, I spray-painted the bolts, the struts outer outline, and empty hole of the lower strut mount against the spindles (didn't have a Sharpie) to verify and maintain the new strut's alignment.
-The old struts had a super thin transparency paper plastic "strut mount gasket" installed on the top of the strut and between the wheel-well body to act as some kind of cheap (my guess) vibration isolation damper.
-I used that clear plastic gasket to make my own gasket using foil-backed rubberized "peel-and-stick" waterproofing membrane material, (stuff normally used on roof valleys and edges, and when installing exterior doors and windows) - at least twice the thickness of that plastic gasket) and installed it (stuck) it on the top of the new strut as a vibration (noise) damper.
-Why - Because I had a 2000 Maxima that had no strut mount gaskets at all and it was noisy as hell until I pre-fabricated and installed some improvised gaskets (back then used regular general purpose gasket material and they worked well).
--FYI - Mazda dealerships sell strut mount gaskets for a few other Mazda models including the P5 for about $2.50 plus shipping. Below is a link to a Mazda dealership where you can find them and other parts.
2003 Mazda P5 Strut Mount Gaskets
-I will test drive the car later today and report back how the struts sound and work after installing new brake pads all around (rotors good), Exile shift linkage bushings, and a Megan short (throw) shifter today (weather permitting).
Oh cool, please do let us know how the shifter mods go! I installed the same combo of bushings/SS about a year ago but I've had tons of problems with it rattling and being too notchy. My experience does not seem to represent that of most people's though, and I'm beginning to think I have something wrong or a defect. Would love to hear your experience once installed.Exile shift linkage bushings, and a Megan short (throw) shifter today (weather permitting).
$750 for a P5 with 155k? Damn, that's a bargain.-Last Night - for son's recent $750- 2003 P5 purchase, I removed and replaced both rear struts at 155K miles.
Driver's side was making "thunking" noises when hitting bumps and when pushing down on left rear car body.
-Struts purchased are Duralast struts from Autozone.
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822L
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822R
--Maybe not the best and definitely not the cheapest but pressed for time.
--Also didn't know I could have ordered them online and saved 20% with a discount code and next day delivery.
___
STRUTS
-Before removing the struts, I spray-painted the bolts, the struts outer outline, and empty hole of the lower strut mount against the spindles (didn't have a Sharpie) to verify and maintain the new strut's alignment.
-The old struts had a super thin transparency paper plastic "strut mount gasket" installed on the top of the strut and between the wheel-well body to act as some kind of cheap (my guess) vibration isolation damper.
-I used that clear plastic gasket to make my own gasket using foil-backed rubberized "peel-and-stick" waterproofing membrane material, (stuff normally used on roof valleys and edges, and when installing exterior doors and windows) - at least twice the thickness of that plastic gasket) and installed it (stuck) it on the top of the new strut as a vibration (noise) damper.
-Why - Because I had a 2000 Maxima that had no strut mount gaskets at all and it was noisy as hell until I pre-fabricated and installed some improvised gaskets (back then used regular general purpose gasket material and they worked well).
--FYI - Mazda dealerships sell strut mount gaskets for a few other Mazda models including the P5 for about $2.50 plus shipping. Below is a link to a Mazda dealership where you can find them and other parts.
2003 Mazda P5 Strut Mount Gaskets
-I will test drive the car later today and report back how the struts sound and work after installing new brake pads all around (rotors good), Exile shift linkage bushings, and a Megan short (throw) shifter today (weather permitting).
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
Right?? And that's why I asked about pictures. If it's mechanically decent with that mileage, there must be something else wrong, or it was just a great deal.
Mine was $1500, and it's got the rustiest subframe I've ever seen in a car, plus the rust issues on the body, and the paint fade. And the salvage title. (Yeah, my mom got ripped off big time on this one lol)
I so badly want our rust buckets to hang out together.
Mine was $9k back in 2009 with 75k miles on it, manual, stock, no rust. I still think I did good even though I got it from a used car dealer. Everything else private party after that one!
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
Was driving on the highway today and saw an abandoned silver Protege5, identical to mine. Had to stop and take photos. Bit sad to see another one go, especially this way.
Thing is cosmetically and probably mechanically totaled, and it's been partially stripped. Owner definitely didn't take care of it at all. 5spd with leather and a sunroof too. The temptation to take parts off it is high, but I don't want to be that guy.
Thing is cosmetically and probably mechanically totaled, and it's been partially stripped. Owner definitely didn't take care of it at all. 5spd with leather and a sunroof too. The temptation to take parts off it is high, but I don't want to be that guy.
Attachments
So sad to see one abandoned...They're awesome cars and they don't deserve that fate.
yeah, they deserve to rust into the ground while still being driven!
Here are a couple of pictures of my son's $750- P5 that I'm working on.
-It had been previously hit from behind in the left rear quarter taking out the tail-light, pushing metal forward and in to include the fender well lip where so far I took a coupe of sized baseball bats (NASCAR style) along with some hammering to get the dents bumped out for now.
-I do has some surface rust on drive/suspension components where I'll be replacing a lot of parts and will use a wire brush and some Ospho to neutralize the rust and paint on what I don't replace.
-Lots of new replacement parts coming in this week that I will be replacing since I'll be dropping the transmission to replace ALL the clutch components beyond standard parts just short of racing grade components along with replacing the engine rear main seal while I'm in there.
--Other parts -both front CV axles, front struts, 12 piece front suspension kit (have already installed new radiator and one new fan. Have also replaced rear struts and front and rear brakes pads along with installed new Megan short throw shifter and Exile shift linkage bushings that work great!!)
-The way I figure is the parts aren't all that expensive compared to my not -so-pain-"free" labor
.
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In other news, Fox Business today said used car and truck prices are skyrocketing. Highest increase since they've been keeping records since 1953. Prices rising due to stimulus checks spending and a 36% decline in dealerships new car inventory levels....
This means YOUR cars are worth more right now and replacing parts on my son's car I rationalize is an "investment".
-It had been previously hit from behind in the left rear quarter taking out the tail-light, pushing metal forward and in to include the fender well lip where so far I took a coupe of sized baseball bats (NASCAR style) along with some hammering to get the dents bumped out for now.
-I do has some surface rust on drive/suspension components where I'll be replacing a lot of parts and will use a wire brush and some Ospho to neutralize the rust and paint on what I don't replace.
-Lots of new replacement parts coming in this week that I will be replacing since I'll be dropping the transmission to replace ALL the clutch components beyond standard parts just short of racing grade components along with replacing the engine rear main seal while I'm in there.
--Other parts -both front CV axles, front struts, 12 piece front suspension kit (have already installed new radiator and one new fan. Have also replaced rear struts and front and rear brakes pads along with installed new Megan short throw shifter and Exile shift linkage bushings that work great!!)
-The way I figure is the parts aren't all that expensive compared to my not -so-pain-"free" labor
.----
In other news, Fox Business today said used car and truck prices are skyrocketing. Highest increase since they've been keeping records since 1953. Prices rising due to stimulus checks spending and a 36% decline in dealerships new car inventory levels....
This means YOUR cars are worth more right now and replacing parts on my son's car I rationalize is an "investment".
Attachments
-Your mom was looking out for you. My guess she didn't want no gold-digging hussies after you for your car or for your money. If they still want to go out with you in that car, it must be for luvvvv.
(Also, you don't have to worry about door-dings and can park it wherever you damn well want).
-I did have trouble installing the bottom dust boot. I ended up taking the two o-rings off the side of the new Megan shifter and running the rubber dust boot to the top of the shifter using a little lubricant to get it to seat in the hole before installing the c-clip.
-I figured the rubber between the metal hole would act as a vibration damper.
-I probably could wiped on some silicone (gasket) sealant to help with any metal to metal contact as well.
I don't know how many miles (if any?) that you've put on the car, but our cars LOVE to burn oil, mainly due to lack of oil changes.This means YOUR cars are worth more right now and replacing parts on my son's car I rationalize is an "investment".
Our FS engine has a poor design with it's oil rings on the pistons.
They have very little spring tension and let oil into the combustion chambers and gas into the oil.
I would suggest an "engine flush" to help wash away any carbon buildup.
I use seafoam and have used it for the entire time I've had my car (over 10 years) and I don't burn a drop of oil.
This is a picture of a piston from my parts car that was burning oil like a MOFO.
Some guys fog out their entire neighborhood when they start their cars.
A link to the guy that discovered the problem.
Thread ''02 Protege5 burning oil, white smoke on startup/post downhill acceleration' https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/ind...startup-post-downhill-acceleration.123864613/
Check the links and the post by gozz that discovered the problem...
You want to keep the oil drain holes clear before they completely plug up.
In my experience, the engines will also start to make a little bit of top end noise upon first start up, then it'll clear and it won't be there again when you shut it down and restart it. But if you come back to your car 3-4 hours after starting it, you'll hear that noise. An oil change took care of that for me last time, and I'm within 1000 miles of my change threshold, so I think that's my car's way of letting me know "Hey ******, you need to change the oil!"
I change my oil every 3,000 miles.
I used seafoam in with the old oil when I first got my car and drove it 100 miles, then changed the oil.
It was a dark black color and kinda thick.
After doing that a few times, and I washed all the gunk out, I put half a can of Seafoam, (also known as seafood, if you think it's snake oil) in with my new oil and leave it in there until my next oil change.
My car doesn't burn a drop of oil. I never check the oil level.
I went to get my car smog tested about 7 years ago where they sniff the exhaust, and the guy thought his machine was broken.
It registered no emissions.
He had to do the test twice to finally read something.
My car pollutes less than a brand new car.
They plug into the OBDII port now to test the car.
If my car doesn't pollute it also doesn't foul up the engine.
It runs clean.
Burning oil fouls up O2 sensors, burns out the pre-cat and main cat, fouls up the combustion chambers and spark plugs, and fouls up the EGR system.
Dirty engines don't run properly.
I used seafoam in with the old oil when I first got my car and drove it 100 miles, then changed the oil.
It was a dark black color and kinda thick.
After doing that a few times, and I washed all the gunk out, I put half a can of Seafoam, (also known as seafood, if you think it's snake oil) in with my new oil and leave it in there until my next oil change.
My car doesn't burn a drop of oil. I never check the oil level.
I went to get my car smog tested about 7 years ago where they sniff the exhaust, and the guy thought his machine was broken.
It registered no emissions.
He had to do the test twice to finally read something.
My car pollutes less than a brand new car.
They plug into the OBDII port now to test the car.
If my car doesn't pollute it also doesn't foul up the engine.
It runs clean.
Burning oil fouls up O2 sensors, burns out the pre-cat and main cat, fouls up the combustion chambers and spark plugs, and fouls up the EGR system.
Dirty engines don't run properly.
