NA MSP - going the NA route

for headers you have obx, awr, autoexe and ebay (obx). autoexe is ridiculous, awr is also very pricey. ebays are cheap and work.

i heard that the SR cam gears do not adjust the proper way that a cam gear should adjust. ill look for the info later.

and i would let the haltech control fuel, and timing.
 
for headers you have obx, awr, autoexe and ebay (obx). autoexe is ridiculous, awr is also very pricey. ebays are cheap and work.

i heard that the SR cam gears do not adjust the proper way that a cam gear should adjust. ill look for the info later.

and i would let the haltech control fuel, and timing.

You're right about the SR cam gears.. evidently the cam sensor doesn't locate the pickups perfectly, that's why "focus" made his adjustable cam gears last year for a bunch of people. Ever once-in-a-while they come up for sale and they always are too expensive or sell right away. I'm trying to get "2k3 PrO RiDa" to get some copies made at a machine shop before he installs his new focus gears. You might PM him to see if we can light a bigger fire under him and get that to happen. I've got some extra stock cam gears I am willing to ship down to be guinea pigs.
 
If you want a set of ITB's or intake manifold let me know.

You got a pic of the ITB's? And any info? I'm just curious.

I have a P&P'd intake manifold already w/ the VICS/VTCS removed. It's currently attached to the current motor.
 
for headers you have obx, awr, autoexe and ebay (obx). autoexe is ridiculous, awr is also very pricey. ebays are cheap and work.

i heard that the SR cam gears do not adjust the proper way that a cam gear should adjust. ill look for the info later.

and i would let the haltech control fuel, and timing.

There's also the Thunder header, which is a step up from ebay/obx.
 
and the wagner shorty header but i didnt include that because its hard to come across, like the thunder
 
and the wagner shorty header but i didnt include that because its hard to come across, like the thunder

Pretty sure you can get the Thunder new from Protefile. AWR won't make any more headers without a 10+ person GB. Kinda regret selling mine after I decided not to go turbo.
 
Nice. One other consideration is a DocB oil setup... don't want to starve the engine of oil @ higher RPMs. Here's a link if you don't know what I mean. It's worth doing if you are putting the pistons in anyways FWIW.
 
Nice. One other consideration is a DocB oil setup... don't want to starve the engine of oil @ higher RPMs. Here's a link if you don't know what I mean. It's worth doing if you are putting the pistons in anyways FWIW.

+1 and also do the AWR oil pan. Always nice having the extra 1.75 quarts

AJ Kulish likes this

and circuit how did it act? and did it sound good.

Mid to high end torque was increased and I only ran the 1st one I had, and it was with the stock exhaust with Mazdaspeed Axle-back, and we all know how obnoxious that thing is. I would love to get my hands on another one and keep it this time LOL. I think it would sound amazing with my 2.5" catted mid-pipe and RB catback.
 
Just some questions for you to consider.

What header are you going to be using? What are you going to do intake wise? Have you decided on what ECU you'll be running? Have you thought about using different injectors? What rods will you be using? What rpm are you going to set fuel cut off to? What cams are you going to use?

Otherwise make sure to track down the fs-ze spark plugs when the engines finally in, the spark plug sits a little lower in the chamber changing the combustion process. (Makes for better combustion at higher rpm.)

(One of these days I might post about the things to consider when going NA.)
 
An FSZE intake manifold might be something to go for too...they have no VTCS and have the extra resonance chamber that is supposed to help NA. NGK ZFR5's are the long reach plugs for the 2.0 FSDE from 2000 model 1.6s. The 1.8 coil setup smooths out things too. a 2000 626 valve cover that has cam sensor works good with the spark plug wiring for the 1.8 coils. Lightened acc pulleys, UDP for crank, etc etc etc
 
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Just to answer a few of the questions here....

I don't plan on going full out with the build. Something streetable with maintained reliability. Nothing wild and I'm not really doing this for the power. I like the engine response and sound of an NA machine, but I still do have horsepower goals.

So..with this in mind, currently, and since I had bought a ton of parts for my turbo build, I'll be using some of that up.

What I have now:

motor will get a full maintenance rebuild as well with all the gaskets and pumps including the head (no headwork for now..but considering a 3 angle valve job)
P&P intake manifold with no VCTS/VICS
P5 ECU
FSZE pistons (recently purchased)
Haltech E6X EMS (still researching as to how to wire this up...if anyone can point me to a wiring diagram and tuning it, would be great)
626 cam gear with sensor for running the haltech
OBX header (recently purchased)
Unorthodox UDP (recently purchased)
AC is getting removed
Mazdaspeed low temp thermostat
Cometic stock thickness head gasket
Fidanza 7lb flywheel
Clevite rod bearings
ARP studs
ACT clutch...but I am looking for the Street disk instead of the Heavy Duty disk that I have.

I'm keeping the rpm range to about 7000rpm...I know I can go higher but that would require some custom rods...I'm sticking with stock rods for now and the engine speeds around that rpm range should be manageable by the rods and bearings.

I also have 440CC injectors sitting at home but I think the stock injectors are capable and won't need to be replaced.
 

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